Your tps is not the main issue, a vacuum leak it. Go get some vacuum caps and block off the aws ports on the intake tube and on the dynamic chamber. Is the idle lower once you start it back up? If so you're on the right track, if not the problem lies elsewhere. Unplug the bacv connector while the engine is running. Does the idle go down?

 

I'm so glad I found this thread. I am chasing the same problem with my car. After reading through this I strongly suspect something is up with my AWS. Another clue to my problem is that intermittently, my idle will change when I put the car in neutral from the high-bouncing idle to a low-rough idle.

I’m not sure which thing on the engine is the AWS valve. Is it the thing directly behind the oil filler neck? If I wanted to block it off, exactly how would I go about doing that, like which line needs to be blocked, or do I just unplug the thing?

Thanks for any help!

 

I'd suggest checking the FSM to find out where the AWS is. I have a very similar problem with my idle and bouncing rpms and I am happy I found this thread. I have list of possible problems written down and the AWS block off is now first on the list.

 

Probably due to the AWS. Im checking if that is the problem with mine today. If not I have 7 things on the list I have to go through one by one.

 

Ok, so I am clueless, I keep reading about adjusting the TPS, and I see this pic, where is the screw you adjust? I don't see it....

 

It's part of the throttle linkage and the adjustment screw is about one inch long and encased in a spring.

 

Thank you satch

 

TPS fix/adjust or replace

 

check BAC also know as "Idle Control Valve". Follow FSM how to check BAC. Here's 2 places that I found vacuum leaks in my FC3S, power booster diaphragm and lower intake manifold gasket. A word of advice I found a small tear on my intake manifold gasket because I used an aftermarket paper/textile gasket. Please use original Mazda gasket.

 

I had a similar high warm idle issue with my n/a S5 after I removed the LIM to repair an issue with the 6PI. I had replace all the heat aged hardened vacuum/pressure lines along with the intake gaskets. The car ran great for a few days. Then the 1500 RPM warm idle issued started. I read a lot of threads about vacuum leaks, TPS out of adjustment and a faulty BAC valve. Then I noticed a few folks talking about physically moving the throttle linkage up and down. In doing that I noticed that the throttle cable was not as stack as it was it when I had re-installed it on the linkage.

It turned out that my problem was that the rubber wiper cap at the end of the cable adjuster had come loose. It had slipped down the cable and jamb itself in the linkage cam on the back side of the throttle. It was impossible to see, but I found it down there by feeling around. I simply slid it back up the cable and into position over the end of the cable adjuster.

Problem solved.