2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

89 TII no power/barely idles

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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 11:32 PM
  #76  
ilike2eatricers's Avatar
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I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
 
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I guess I'll grab an SAFC and tune to -30% to get back to stock levels until I can dyno tune. Thanks for the quick reply I really appreciate it.
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Old Jul 26, 2004 | 11:12 PM
  #77  
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UPDATE: got some good news and bad news.

Good news: safc2 is cmoing wednesday.

Bad news is I drove the car the other day again to check to see if anything has changed and now the hesitation is also happening before the secondaries come online. Hesitation only seems to mostly happen when I apply too much throttle. If I keep the throttle low it drives ok. Got the CEL that I did not get before...

Pulled the codes
26 - step motor MOP
27 - meter oil pump
38 - solenoid valve (accelerated warm up)

So what could have caused the MOP to go bad? Things I have done in the last 2 weeks were pull intake manifold and change out all vac lines under the UIM. Is it possible that I ran lines incorrectly causing the MOP to fail? Does it sound like I am experiencing limp mode? Here are some pix to help you guys decide. Am I correct in assuming the 4 vac lines from the MOP spider do not have to go to any specific oil injector? What about the other vac lines? Somehow I don't think that is the problem.







How can I test if the MOP fried my ECU like how many other people have said? Any tests ont he MOP I should perform?
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Old Jul 27, 2004 | 01:03 AM
  #78  
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I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
 
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After doing some searching I found it is best to change out the OMP and ECU at the same time. One question I still want answered is how can I test the ECU to see if it is fried (other than opening it up to look for burnt spots)?

Originally Posted by ajsuper7
if the codes wont clear when you reset the battery then you will need a new ecu. this happened to me recently...omp went out and fried the ecu, why it does this im not sure but its fairly common.
How accurate is this method of testing the ECU?
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Old Jul 27, 2004 | 11:20 AM
  #79  
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Old Jul 27, 2004 | 12:57 PM
  #80  
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There is no real good method for testing the ecu...you just take your chances, and draw logical conclusions (like the one above). The ecu is such a dynamic unit with variable inputs and outputs that DIY'ers such as ourselves cannot test it.
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Old Jul 27, 2004 | 08:56 PM
  #81  
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Damn I didnt want to hear that. Well I wil have an s5 OMP coming to me soon and hopefully an ECU also. I will be performing some tests per the FSM on the OMP. Will report back.
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Old Jul 28, 2004 | 02:56 AM
  #82  
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Performed the 1st inspection (electrical) to the mop system.

Resistance results from stepping motor:

SM3 and +B 22 ohms
SM1 and +B 23.4 ohms

SM4 and +B 39-40 ohms
SM2 and +B 23.2 ohms

The resistance for all of the pins is supposed to be 19-23 ohms. The fix: get another omp, which I have already taken care of. I also have an ECU coming as well. Hope these 2 things fix my problems.
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Old Aug 2, 2004 | 05:37 PM
  #83  
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Car is up and running beautifully. Thanks delslow for the great deal on the ECU and OMP! I also got my SAFC installed. Is there anyway to actually test to see if oil is being injected other than looking at the lines? The lines are already brown and I cant really see much. Are they supposed to have oil flowing through them all while the car is running?
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