88Tii All orignal 2nd owner 72,000, Problems!
03-19-09, 11:30 PM
#1
88Tii All orignal 2nd owner 72,000, Problems!
The car has eratic idle. sometimes perfect sometimes 1000 or 1200. The major problem is...It starts right up first thing in the morning i think cuz it sits all night but other than that you dont't want to shut it off cuz it might not start again lol. You got to crank it and crank it pump the gas/hold pedal to the floor and it roughly starts up.. maybe... but like yesterday around 4pm i shut it off and i tryed to start it around 530 couldnt get it started back up it just wouldnt start. The last problem is it hesitates all the way threw the RPM range. say i just shifted into second so im going to get on it i full throttle it builds boost pulls hard just hesitates all the way threw the RPM range maybe 3,4,5 hesitations all the way to 7Krpm. I searched TPS, Thermowax, BAC, Idle surge, hesitation and read alot alot alot. Help! What should i check first or what does this problem sound like?
Tommarow this is my procedure:
-Radioshake-2LED's to make the ECU Code reader- Then check for codes.
-Change fuel filter in line/ take fuel pump out and check filter.
-Take BAC off clean it.
-Change all vaccum lines
Tommarow this is my procedure:
-Radioshake-2LED's to make the ECU Code reader- Then check for codes.
-Change fuel filter in line/ take fuel pump out and check filter.
-Take BAC off clean it.
-Change all vaccum lines
03-20-09, 09:05 AM
#2
you need to check the TPS. do a search on that, I prefer looking at it by volts and by resistance as opposed to the two-light method, but you decide for yourself. There is also a ground wire under the UIM that gets dirty and needs to be cleaned (use sandpaper on the bolt hole). You need to buy yourself a Haynes manual and download the factory service manual "fuel and emissions control - Turbo" section. Read through all of that VERY carefully!
Be warned that if you "check all vacuum lines" you will most likely have to do a full vac job and change a bunch of gaskets, so expect the car to be down for a while. The BAC valve has a gasket for example. Don't pull the UIM or anything else off until you are fully prepared for this. Study the stock vacuum routing diagram VERY carefully. Label both sides of all the hoses (so you know which end goes where) that you will be removing with written masking tape labels. Also now is a good time to change the heater hose by the oil filter, as that is guaranteed to fail on you and risk a coolant leak and overflow. Get a set of razor blades from Advance Auto/wherever to scrape your UIM gasket mating surface. When you get in there you should also look into changing/replacing your pulsation dampener (search) because you could have an engine fire.
If you disassemble everything slowly and carefully it will go back together with much less fuss. If you have a friend with any knowledge of working on cars to help you things will go a lot better. It's nice to have two people to go over the vacuum, fuel, and coolant routing.
Be warned that if you "check all vacuum lines" you will most likely have to do a full vac job and change a bunch of gaskets, so expect the car to be down for a while. The BAC valve has a gasket for example. Don't pull the UIM or anything else off until you are fully prepared for this. Study the stock vacuum routing diagram VERY carefully. Label both sides of all the hoses (so you know which end goes where) that you will be removing with written masking tape labels. Also now is a good time to change the heater hose by the oil filter, as that is guaranteed to fail on you and risk a coolant leak and overflow. Get a set of razor blades from Advance Auto/wherever to scrape your UIM gasket mating surface. When you get in there you should also look into changing/replacing your pulsation dampener (search) because you could have an engine fire.
If you disassemble everything slowly and carefully it will go back together with much less fuss. If you have a friend with any knowledge of working on cars to help you things will go a lot better. It's nice to have two people to go over the vacuum, fuel, and coolant routing.
03-20-09, 04:42 PM
#4
you need to check the TPS. do a search on that, I prefer looking at it by volts and by resistance as opposed to the two-light method, but you decide for yourself. There is also a ground wire under the UIM that gets dirty and needs to be cleaned (use sandpaper on the bolt hole). You need to buy yourself a Haynes manual and download the factory service manual "fuel and emissions control - Turbo" section. Read through all of that VERY carefully!
Be warned that if you "check all vacuum lines" you will most likely have to do a full vac job and change a bunch of gaskets, so expect the car to be down for a while. The BAC valve has a gasket for example. Don't pull the UIM or anything else off until you are fully prepared for this. Study the stock vacuum routing diagram VERY carefully. Label both sides of all the hoses (so you know which end goes where) that you will be removing with written masking tape labels. Also now is a good time to change the heater hose by the oil filter, as that is guaranteed to fail on you and risk a coolant leak and overflow. Get a set of razor blades from Advance Auto/wherever to scrape your UIM gasket mating surface. When you get in there you should also look into changing/replacing your pulsation dampener (search) because you could have an engine fire.
If you disassemble everything slowly and carefully it will go back together with much less fuss. If you have a friend with any knowledge of working on cars to help you things will go a lot better. It's nice to have two people to go over the vacuum, fuel, and coolant routing.
Be warned that if you "check all vacuum lines" you will most likely have to do a full vac job and change a bunch of gaskets, so expect the car to be down for a while. The BAC valve has a gasket for example. Don't pull the UIM or anything else off until you are fully prepared for this. Study the stock vacuum routing diagram VERY carefully. Label both sides of all the hoses (so you know which end goes where) that you will be removing with written masking tape labels. Also now is a good time to change the heater hose by the oil filter, as that is guaranteed to fail on you and risk a coolant leak and overflow. Get a set of razor blades from Advance Auto/wherever to scrape your UIM gasket mating surface. When you get in there you should also look into changing/replacing your pulsation dampener (search) because you could have an engine fire.
If you disassemble everything slowly and carefully it will go back together with much less fuss. If you have a friend with any knowledge of working on cars to help you things will go a lot better. It's nice to have two people to go over the vacuum, fuel, and coolant routing.
went back out after i got what i needed and tryed starting it just crank and crank hold the pedal to the floor. After a couple times of that i White smoke lots of it starts pouring out of exhaust and the damn coolent buzzer is going off. well i get it started bring it hom echeck the coolent you can't even see any in the radiator...the car don't smoke at all when driving it or when it actaully starts..WERE"S ALL THE COOLENT GOING? it prolly lost 2-3 quarts. I got the fuel pump out, fuel filter off, UIM off (half tempted to put block off plates on the mani.)When i did the Compression test I...Took out each spark plug one at a time. hold the pedal to the floor and crank it... The car Boost hard, runs great besides hesitation, really does not feel like it has low compression. 
03-20-09, 04:47 PM
#5
I dunno man, you may want to consider just saving your money up for a rebuild. You could end up spending a bunch of time trying to fix stuff and then blow it soon after. I bet your housings and internal parts are still in good shape. It would be much cheaper to get it rebuilt now than if you blow something or overheat.
It's also a hell of a lot easier to do vacuum routing with the motor on an engine stand.
It's also a hell of a lot easier to do vacuum routing with the motor on an engine stand.
03-20-09, 05:13 PM
#6
I dunno man, you may want to consider just saving your money up for a rebuild. You could end up spending a bunch of time trying to fix stuff and then blow it soon after. I bet your housings and internal parts are still in good shape. It would be much cheaper to get it rebuilt now than if you blow something or overheat.
It's also a hell of a lot easier to do vacuum routing with the motor on an engine stand.
It's also a hell of a lot easier to do vacuum routing with the motor on an engine stand.
03-20-09, 05:42 PM
#7
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This car isn't mine. Some dude asked me to take a look at it for him and this is what i found out sooo... called him and told him he came over and for some reason don't belive me that its taking on coolent and he want's me to fix the hesitation problem so idk what to do.
If you think about it,Coolant will enter and kill spark.When the Engine is Off and the Cooling system is Pressurized from Running,Then the coolant will enter the Housings and make the car hard to start.
anyways,It is a Wild Guess.
If your Buddy Doesn't like the way that you are working on his Car,then tell him to Take it to someone else for a second opinion......you can lead the Horse to water...(you know the rest).Good luck anyways.
OH,do a Cooling sytem Pressure test to rule out the Coolant entering the Housings.(aka,Bad coolant seal).
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03-20-09, 05:44 PM
#8
Have you checked your cat converter? To much backpressure could cause problems. The prev owner of my TII had low comp and had a hard time starting it, but could eventually get it started. After replacing the engine with a rebuild it would start but still hesitate to rev. Turned out to be a very bad clogged cat.
03-21-09, 02:21 PM
#9
your Statement about Coolant.Taking ON coolant.Does that mean it is EATING coolant?,If so there is your Problem Right there.
If you think about it,Coolant will enter and kill spark.When the Engine is Off and the Cooling system is Pressurized from Running,Then the coolant will enter the Housings and make the car hard to start.
anyways,It is a Wild Guess.
If your Buddy Doesn't like the way that you are working on his Car,then tell him to Take it to someone else for a second opinion......you can lead the Horse to water...(you know the rest).Good luck anyways.
OH,do a Cooling sytem Pressure test to rule out the Coolant entering the Housings.(aka,Bad coolant seal).
If you think about it,Coolant will enter and kill spark.When the Engine is Off and the Cooling system is Pressurized from Running,Then the coolant will enter the Housings and make the car hard to start.
anyways,It is a Wild Guess.
If your Buddy Doesn't like the way that you are working on his Car,then tell him to Take it to someone else for a second opinion......you can lead the Horse to water...(you know the rest).Good luck anyways.
OH,do a Cooling sytem Pressure test to rule out the Coolant entering the Housings.(aka,Bad coolant seal).
03-21-09, 02:22 PM
#10
Have you checked your cat converter? To much backpressure could cause problems. The prev owner of my TII had low comp and had a hard time starting it, but could eventually get it started. After replacing the engine with a rebuild it would start but still hesitate to rev. Turned out to be a very bad clogged cat.
03-21-09, 10:50 PM
#12
03-21-09, 11:48 PM
#13
Im going out there to pull the cat now. I show him the threads and he just says im computer lliterate i don't know how to work it that well...which that has nothing to to with him reading what i bring up on the screen but anyhow... So i cleaned the injectors, Grounded the Pressure sensor, grounded the motor again, cleaned the ground thats under the tmic bracket i think its the ECU gorund forgot, Took the trailing coil pack off and cleaned the group of grounds under there, scufffed them all up so they were shiny brass again or what ever the hell its made of lol. Deleted the Air solenoid that helps out the BAC cuz the nipple was already broke from somone else, Took the BAC off cleaned it, Took them little things out of the vaccum lines they look like bobbers i forget what there called but cleaned them real good, One you couldn't even blow threw so i put the air hose to it and covered my wall in brown soot, replaced the vaccum lines, prolly a couple more things but its late im tired. Hopefully thiis fixes the hesitation after i make sure the TPS is correct. Now I jumped the yellow plug so the fuel pump would run in the ON positin so i can check to see if the injectors are leaking and of course they are so in the morning get new Orings. I have the mani ready to be put back on all the cables hooked up ect so in the morning after the Orings it should be g2g. we shall see im crossing my fingers this thing is fixed well don't hesitate.
03-22-09, 03:39 PM
#15
Oh i know thats the first thing i inspected lol. The guy came and picked up the car today. There is no hesitation the car runs flawless but dosn't start flawless lol. If you push start it it starts up fine but cranking it by the key (when warm) forget it.
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