88 TII w/ S5 JDM TII swap STILL wont run!
Yeah thats exactly what it is similar to the injector plugs. Its the location and the clip together that are making it such a pain in the ***. I have a pick that works good but trying to get a hold of the plug and getting it pulled out is a PITA.
Those numbers are off the chart. Sounds like the plug is disconnected, loose or the wires are broken or the pins/wire running into the back of the plug are receded and not making proper contact. With the coolant cold, the range should read 2 to 3 volts.
A continuity test should be done on the G/W wire.
A continuity test should be done on the G/W wire.
Ok I tested it plugged in and got 4.98v at the ECU on 2I. I also ohmed the thermosensor on the car and a spare I had both are showing ~2.15. Ambient temp is ~ 70* here tonight.
Looks to be within the normal range so the G/W wire needs to be checked for continuity. If its good then the ground must be problematic or the plug connection.
As short a run as it is to the ECU I would have expected less but I checked out the wire I used to extend the test lead and it showed .3! Its brand new wire that came with some fog lights I bought for my bike w/ nice shiny brass connectors at each end so if its pulling .3 at 2 meters then .2 for the wire to the ECU doesnt seem so bad especially considering the age.
Its also 12 ga. stranded copper. Cheap a$$ china crap!
Its also 12 ga. stranded copper. Cheap a$$ china crap!
Lol I think Willie's at his ranch in Austin at the moment actually
Gonna run it all again tomorrow when I can see and think better and see if I get the same results.
I was looking at the values for the CAS but I cant find anything in the diagrams labeled "G1, G2, Ne1, Ne2" any idea?
Gonna run it all again tomorrow when I can see and think better and see if I get the same results.I was looking at the values for the CAS but I cant find anything in the diagrams labeled "G1, G2, Ne1, Ne2" any idea?
Lol I think Willie's at his ranch in Austin at the moment actually
Gonna run it all again tomorrow when I can see and think better and see if I get the same results.
I was looking at the values for the CAS but I cant find anything in the diagrams labeled "G1, G2, Ne1, Ne2" any idea?
Gonna run it all again tomorrow when I can see and think better and see if I get the same results.I was looking at the values for the CAS but I cant find anything in the diagrams labeled "G1, G2, Ne1, Ne2" any idea?
Will do! gotta get some sleep though. I was up at 4 this morning to feed all the critters and go to Houston for some lame safety seminar BS for work.
Thanx much for the help. I'll catch ya tomorrow when I get those numbers. Hopefully they will turn up something.
Thanx much for the help. I'll catch ya tomorrow when I get those numbers. Hopefully they will turn up something.
Well it looks like the IAT in the MAF is good, fuel pump circuit is good but the MAF itself jumps all over the range and I cant get a good reading on it. It does pass the fully closed/fully open test as described in the FSM. Shouldnt the resistance increase smoothly from just off closed to wide open?
Well it looks like the IAT in the MAF is good, fuel pump circuit is good but the MAF itself jumps all over the range and I cant get a good reading on it. It does pass the fully closed/fully open test as described in the FSM. Shouldnt the resistance increase smoothly from just off closed to wide open?
Well it looks like the IAT in the MAF is good, fuel pump circuit is good but the MAF itself jumps all over the range and I cant get a good reading on it. It does pass the fully closed/fully open test as described in the FSM. Shouldnt the resistance increase smoothly from just off closed to wide open?
EDIT: There are three pins at the ECU related to the AFM. Pin 2J,2E and 2A. You already measured 2A and it read correctly. 2E should be about 4 volts w/key to on an 2J 2 to 3 volts w/key to on when the air temp is 68 degrees.
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