Texrx

Ok at this point I'm so fed up with this car I just want to torch it and laugh maniacally as it turns into a heap of scrap in my driveway!

The story:
Bought the car w/ a rebuilt S5 TII engine but the guy who built it go the end play wrong so I picked up a buddies S5 JDM engine and swapped it in. I had to rework a ton of the wiring and crap the moron who built the engine fubared and in the process I removed all the emissions crap.

At this point in time I have 90 PSI compression all around, good spark on all but the #2 trailing coil, and 40 psi of fuel pressure. CAS has been checked and rechecked so many times I can do it blindfolded, I have checked the system for vac leaks and aside from a very tiny one on one of the throttle plate shafts its all good ( by tiny I mean I can plug the intake, crank it, and it takes several minutes for the vac to even drop significantly). Injectors click nicely and with the fuel pump shut off the pressure drops incrementally as each injector opens. Fuel lines have all been checked and rechecked, injectors are clean and spraying good. Fuel pump is a new Walbro hi pressure unit (GSS-342, IIRC).

I'm pretty sure the vac connections are all in the right places but at the moment I cant remember whats supposed to go to where and am having a bit of trouble finding a definitive answer so if someone can give me a rundown on that I would appreciate it. I have the S5 JDM TB and UIM so 3 ports front and rear on the TB.

I have noticed that the E/fan on the front of the rad comes on whether the A/C switch is on or off but only sometimes. All A/C and PS equipment is removed aside from the evaporator/condenser, fan, and PS rack itself.

The engine will TRY to start and smokes some out the tail pipe but refuses to go ahead and run. I get 3-5 weak fires then its back to just the starter turning the engine.

I am running the S4 ECU, MAF, MAP, etc.

Somebody please help me out before I do something terrible!

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

In with the generic "Have you reversed the fuel lines on the JDM motor" advice. JDM fuel rails are backwards, make sure you have the fuel lines on correctly.

Texrx

Yeah sorry I keep thinking of all the stuff I already went thru, there's a ton of it!

Fuel system has been completely gone thru and is flowing properly (pressure in on bottom rail) and I have return flow.

Injector plugs have all been checked and are in their correct locations. Grounds have been reworked.

I have three sets of plugs so I can swap them out. 2 sets are brand new w/ 0 miles.

Plug wires ohm out good.

I cant remember the right numbers for the MAP, ECU, and AFM but they should all be S4 gear ( I have: 318 MAP, 333 ECU, 318 AFM, 326 Press. sensor under dash)

I'll add more as I think of it...

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Are you running with the s5 or s4 harness?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

connect a spare CAS to the CAS harness connector. Spin it by hand. You should hear the fuel pump run and you should see spark coming from the coilpacks (pull a wire off to check)

Texrx

TexFC:
Series 4 harness as well. I know theres a ton of other stuff I have R&Red as well but I'm drawing a blank ATM.
Arghx:
Yep have spark, FP, and injector click as well as the tach bounce.

Fuel is fresh 91 octane w/ no additives at this point.

Texrx

Ok I think I may have some vac routing issues. Still trying to find a definitive answer for what should be where.
i.e.
MAP sensor, boost gauge and FPR should be plumbed in after the throttle plate so they see the same pressure as the chambers?
Boost controller? I havent installed it yet but what the heck if I'm gonna be jackin with the vac lines may as well... BTW its an HKS manual BC but the directions suck or are incomplete.
BOV and Injector air bleeds I have routed to after the throttles but I believe they should be before. Definitely the BOV should right? Otherwise it wouldnt see the pressure spike when the throttle closes?

Does anyone have the layout for an S5 JDM TB's vac ports? Having a hell of a time finding that! I meant to check it the other day when I pulled it to reseal everything but forgot.

iani1.1

iTrader: (13)

hmm, are you sure the fuel lines flow from the secondary rail then to the primary rail? if so try plugging the vacuum hose that's on the secondary rail in back of the LIM.

does it fire up at all?

Texrx

Uh, not exactly sure I understand what you are after here. Since mine is a JDM engine the fuel system is reversed, pressure hits the PD/primary rail then goes up to the secondaries and then out thru the FPR and back to the tank.

Your suggesting I unplug the FPR and crank it right?

iani1.1

iTrader: (13)

on the usdm
fuel flows to the lower rail first then to the top rail (primary to secondary)

on the jspec
fuel flows to the top rail then to the lower rail (secondary to primary)

try plugging the fpr vacuum hose in the back of the LIM. that area has enough vacuum you need to have it working properly.

try switch the fuel line first then prime it.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

He is getting fuel, is it possible that you are just severely flooded? Pull the leading plugs and see if they are soaked, dry them out and crank the motor while they are still out (while the EGI fuse is removed from the main fuse box) Try to shoot any gas out of there, then replace the pugs, replace the fuse and see if it fires up.

Texrx

Hmm that's odd. I know this engine is JDM and supposedly the one that came in the car was as well and the rails are the same, fpr on top rail and pd on lower. I have at this point confirmed that I am getting fuel to the chambers. It does flood after cranking for a while but not very quickly. I have 3 sets of plugs that I rotate out to prevent fouling them. When I crank it with the plugs out and the EGI fuse in I get a mist of fuel out the plug ports. I have a starter button on it for cranking with the ignition off. It does seem to try a *little* harder when I pour a bit of gas in the intake which kinda baffles me since the fuel pressure is good and the injectors spray nicely. Another gotcha is that when I tried a little ether it wouldn't even try to kick over with or without fuel being injected.

Texrx

Oh and I will deflood it and try it with the fpr vac disconnected as soon as I get the vac ports on the TB sorted out and the intake back on.

iani1.1

iTrader: (13)

Hmm when you crank it, does the tach move?

Texrx

Yep got tach bounce

iani1.1

iTrader: (13)

how do you have the starter button hooked up?

Texrx

It is connected to the positive terminal on the battery and the ignition feed to the starter (at the starter end)

satch

iTrader: (1)

Has this bypassed the starter switch of the ECU (pin 3B) and the Circuit Opening relay?

Texrx

ok it looks like two of the three front ports are after the throttle plates and the middle one is right at the plate. The rears are all before the throttles and common to each other.

So.. the question now is what needs to see manifold vac and what doesn't?
BOV should be plumbed to the rear ports so it opens when the throttles close right?
The FPR should get manifold vac since there is no need for extra fuel on deceleration?
What about the MAP? What role does it play in starting? Does it need vac while cranking?
Injector air bleeds? I have no clue here, seems like they should be routed to before the throttles so the see differential pressure but I'm not sure I understand their function well enuf to say.

Well its dark out now so I probably wont get the manifold back on til tomorrow and then I'll try it with the FPR vac source disconnected.

Texrx

Hmm not sure Satch but I have tried cranking it many times before I got the starter switch. I do have to cycle the key to the start position and depress the clutch before the fuel pump kicks on. But only if I have turned the key to the off position. I.e this evening I turned the key off and disconnected the battery, tomorrow I will have to turn the key all the way to start and depress the clutch then go round to the front and use the starter switch. As long as I dont turn the key off I can cycle the starter all I want and the fuel pump just keeps running constantly. I am guessing that the starter switch probably does bypass it but shouldn't cycling the key negate that?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Maybe you misunderstood me or better yet, I misunderstand you, but the voltage wire that leads to the starter solenoid should also go to pin 3B of the ECU which is known as the "start switch" because it gives the ECU a heads up that the car is going to be started, and in doing so sets things into motion that are necessary for the car to be started. When the start signal is received at pin 3B the signal is instantaneously sent to the Circuit Opening relay as well so the relay can govern the operation of the fuel pump upon the key being put to start until the car is up and running and at least 500 rpm when the AFM takes over the control of the fuel pump. The fuel pump should only run on a constant basis if the car is running or the fuel check connector is jumpered and key to on. With the key to start the relay previously mentioned would see that the pump runs only with the key to that position.

Texrx

Hmm I think I get what you're saying. I do have the lead from the ignition disconnected at the starter so I can hookup the starter switch. Is this the lead you are referring to? I dont recall any other leads (aside from battery+) going to the starter. It sounds like the fuel pump should kick off as soon as I release the key correct?

satch

iTrader: (1)

There would be two positive carrying wires going to the starter. One from the battery with the second one coming from the ignition side which connects to the starter solenoid. The fuel pump normally starts up from what goes on with the ignition switch and normally shuts off based on the ignition switch.

So from the factory the wire that leads to the starter solenoid splits off and goes to the ECU (pin 3B) which then comes back to the Circuit Opening relay so the relay can send voltage to the fuel pump.

Texrx

And I should see 12 volts at 3b if I remove the starter switch and turn to the start position?
You wouldnt happen to have a direct link to the ecu pinout would you? I lost my laptop drive and all my tech info and links with it.

Texrx

Ok I found the FSM again got a page number perhaps?