2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
Sponsored by:

88 TII, knock sensor problem?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-30-04, 05:00 PM
  #1  
Resident autoglass pro

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
cds00bsmg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: edinburg PA
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Arrow 88 TII, knock sensor problem?

**This is where I am at with the car, you can read all the other stuff on my other thread, but this is where I am at presently with my diagnosis.**

Ok, well, I think I found the problem...however, I "fixed" it and nothing changed.

I was changing all the vacuum lines over to nice red silicone ones, when I noticed a plug that was laying by itself before. (no not one of the solenoid ones...) I took a closer look and noticed that the wire that leads into the one plug end was broken off. This woud be the one that goes to the wiring harness (I assume). On the harness is a free black wire. So, I come to the conclusion that the wire from the harness must have went there.

I wanked the FSM from a mazda dealer we know, along with a factory wiring diagram book. I checked out the FSM, and discovered that my knock sensor is no longer wired up, thanks to this wire breaking. So, I unplug the broke plastic piece. (The piece that connects to the knock sensor is not broken, the other end that goes wherever is) and strip the free black wire on the harness. I put a connector that will work on it, and plug it in.

I start her up, no change. So, my question is this, do I need to get the plastic plug piece from a junk yard dog and splice it in? Or do I need to dis-connect the CAS, set the eccentric shaft pulley to the yellow mark, set the CAS gear and CAS mark, then re-install. Or, both of these things?

Where does the knock sensor connect to the wiring harness? I am going to check on my buddies 10th AE, so that will answer that, but as far as setting the CAS back to the yellow mark and what not, is that necessary? I am assuming this is the root of my problems, since the car starts and runs and drives, just the timing seems to be retarding itself a ton.

Thanks,
Chris
Old 11-30-04, 05:05 PM
  #2  
So close to 12's!!!

 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Canada
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You think that could be the problem? I don't have mine even hooked up. I just cut the wires at the plug. Word has it its so pathetic it can't hear knock about 4500rpm anyways (reted told me that). Other than that its only purpose is to detect knock from bad gas basically. I wouldn't think this would be your problem, because my timing is spot on without it.
Old 11-30-04, 05:12 PM
  #3  
Resident autoglass pro

Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
cds00bsmg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: edinburg PA
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yea, I read some old threads and see that the knock sensor is probably not my problem. (Should have searched first). **Ignore this thread, and check the other one** I don't know what is wrong with the car....

Thanks,
Chris
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
Snoopy FD
Build Threads
25
12-08-15 01:45 PM
stickmantijuana
MoTeC
5
09-10-15 07:58 PM



Quick Reply: 88 TII, knock sensor problem?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:05 AM.