JoshRX7

iTrader: (5)

So, the TII driving home tonight decided it was going to die at every stoplight/sign during the second half of the trip. I tried it with the clutch and without the clutch... it still dies when decelerating down to a stop. I just had the clutch master/slave replaced and the clutch setup is new. So, I don't thin it's the clutch. It just flat out dies... idiot lights all light up and it dies. But then it will start right back up... lol. And you can keep the RPMs a bit higher and drive fine, but when you come to a stop again, it dies. Any ideas?

Emissions Removed, cone filter feeding 3" Turbo Inlet Duct, Recent Rebuild with about 1100 miles on it. I also have trouble with hot starts on this car... just doesn't want to start (but it will after a few cranks and shutting the fuel off sometimes). Think this is a vacuum leak somewhere on top of the engine? It's dark, so I obviously havis en't even looked under the hood yet. I just kept restarting it until I got home

Thanks,
Josh

CyberPitz

I remember I had this problem a while ago. I'd just be driving, minding my own business when my car would just die out of nowhere. I was confused. It would just start right up, unless of course the famous flooding problem happened...but other than that, it was weird. I don't know what fixted it at all, but maybe it was the fact that when I replaced the tape and such on my Kill switch *Kills the fuel injection* and made sure the connections were set right...it worked wonders.

Just saying, I've been in a weirdly similar situation..but mines not turbo

NOPR

I would check the TPS, and air idle control valve if you still have it...

n/a-luvr

What if you're driving it, it's reving high and you push the clutch in and let the engine come back to idle, without applying the brakes? Will the engine die then too or does it only die when you apply brakes and decelerate? Does it cut out before or after it gets back to idle? ~rich

adrock3217

Well naluver, pushing in the clutch will always cause you to decelerate just a little. But, if it happened like THAT, his car would be dying between each shift

But yeah, if it's dying near idle...and you're having flooding problems...

Rich? Check TPS, ACV, BAC(not sure if the BAC on turbo's control idle under load like on NA's? I think the BAC+ACV do this together on Turbos?)

JoshRX7

iTrader: (5)

No, it will die in my driveway as well this morning... I know what you're getting at, but that's not it : ) I'm in the process of checking the TPS this morning. I pulled the intercooler and found this... (see picture) what is the connector? I think it was unplugged when I pulled off the intercooler. Or, it may have just come unplugged when detached the TPS connector. Either way, you're looking at the UIM under the intercooler.

The plug that is unplugged is the TPS... I'm about to go try adjusting it now.
My SAFC isn't reading the Throttle % correctly this morning, so I think it's the TPS or something in that vicinity.

Josh

AbortRetryFail

Looks like the intake temp sensor like S5 NA's have. I may be wrong.

JoshRX7

iTrader: (5)

makes sense. do the wires look reversed (top/bottom) because I just plugged it back in... not knowing what was what. So, I adjusted the TPS to exact spec... 1 ohm closed and it's right at 4.86 wide open. The car continues to do what it was doing... read above. I'm still getting faulty readings on the SAFC, which has normally been "right on" or at least I thought as far as depicting the Throttle %. It's not even close now... most of the time it reads 0... and I noticed now when I stopped the engine, it was reading 55%. (???) I have another TPS (the old one) I'm going to put back on.

The problem now is (isn't it always "something") one of the screws that holds the TPS to the throttle body broke off inside it's hole. Is there an easy way to get the remainder of the screw out?

Josh

peachykeenwight

Not unless you take 5 seconds to shift... your car doesn't fall to idle quick enough between shifts... I had similar problems with my N/A S5 vert. It would sometimes stall after applying the brakes harshly and coming to a complete stop.

Hope you get it fixed, god it gets annoying. (Just for reference, my stalls only happened when the AC was on. Doubt it's the same case for you, but just take it into consideration if you have AC and you were running it)

JoshRX7

iTrader: (5)

The problem now is (isn't it always "something") one of the screws that holds the TPS to the throttle body broke off inside it's hole. Is there an easy way to get the remainder of the screw out?

JoshRX7

iTrader: (5)

Got the screw out... let progress commence. Yippee.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Not really.
Drill it out with a smaller bit and then stick and easy out into that smaller hole. OR completely drill it out and tap new threads.


The stalling thing happens to me sometimes on high RPM switches into neutral. I just tap the gas to slow the RPM fall.

BTW check for vacuum leaks. Make sure your TID is still on snug and check intercooler clamps.

JoshRX7

iTrader: (5)

I swapped in the old TPS and I still have the same problems... with also the additional problems of the old TPS : ) Some things don't change at least.

I've resnugged all the intake lines... the TID line to from the MAF to the turbo... from the turbo to the intercooler intercooler down to the throttle body...

So, basically I have to hold the throttle to at least 1500 rpm or the car will stop running. I'm pretty stumped here now... list of things I can think of: MAF, throttle plates... the emissions/idle equipment has been removed... so, there ya go.

A big clue in this whole scenario is that my Apexi SAFC shows Throttle %... which is (I assume) what the ECU is seeing as far as throttle input. Even if I have my foot halfway to the floor holding 2000 RPMs, the SAFC is showing 0% throttle input. Man oh man... this sounds expensive. This sucks too because this car is supposed to be tuned by Steve Kan on Feb. 4th in St. Louis.

Josh

JoshRX7

iTrader: (5)

I've never noticed this little line on the intercooler open like this... it could have always been or not, I frankly can't remember. What does it run to and should it be capped off? In case you can't get the piture orientation... you're looking at the side of the intercooler at the back on passenger's side.

Josh

ahabion

that should have a rubber hose that goes to the intake manifold underneath. here is a shot from my car.

JoshRX7

iTrader: (5)

Okay, thread closed, the car is fixed... the intercooler nipple above was the culprit. I capped it off with a new rubber cap and used a screw/band fastener to secure it. It must have been loosened by the spirited drive before work and must have popped off on the interstate somewhere. But, she runs great now and that's all that matters : )

Ahabion... mine doesn't have a hose anymore because my emissions have been removed. Thanks for the help though.

Josh

peachykeenwight

Yippee. :P

Good to hear.

Zero2188

Congrats.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Yeahhhh boyee! 100% success... Gotta feel good.

JoshRX7

iTrader: (5)

yeah boyee! lol Steve Kan next weekend!

rotarydelight

mine has the same problem. 88TII. i have to hold the gas at 1500 rpm because if it drops below 1000 RPM it will drive.

can the guy with the picture post another picture that isnt as zoomed in because i think that another hose is going to that nipple on my car. is that hose coming from the upper intake manifold or the lower intake manifold?

is the ACV the thing thats next to the BAC near the intercooler? someone please hhhheeellllppppp!!!!!

rotarydelight

bump

rotarydelight

*it will die