88 starting issues, searched already
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From: not in winterpeg anymore
88 starting issues, searched already
okay, 88 na, high impedance injestors.
The cars owner said it was running, he started it and turned it off without allowing warmup, so I assumed it was flooded. Nope since the fuel is getting pumped nor am I getting spark, let alone any voltage to the leading coil. Fuses are all good, checked them with meter, connections are clean and tight.
Does this sound like a blown ecu or just really bad wiring issues, the harness is hacked. is 88 na n326 ecu's
The cars owner said it was running, he started it and turned it off without allowing warmup, so I assumed it was flooded. Nope since the fuel is getting pumped nor am I getting spark, let alone any voltage to the leading coil. Fuses are all good, checked them with meter, connections are clean and tight.
Does this sound like a blown ecu or just really bad wiring issues, the harness is hacked. is 88 na n326 ecu's
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just tried to pull codes, no codes. The two lights just stay on and don't go off. They are supposed to go off after 3 seconds. Also not getting any reading when using test lamps on tps, move it full range and no lights. I know the lights work
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THIS CAR IS SHADY. Put on a new CAS, still no 12v to coil no tach signal. I am going to try to swap the computer and see what happens. If that doesn't work Its time to trace wires.
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Sorry, must have missed you for a while there. Guess bumping does come in handy, lol...
OK, first the main relay- yes, it should click, every time you turn the key on. If it's not clicking, that would explain all of your problems right there. Quit throwing parts at her & do some troubleshooting...
Main relay gets its juice from the 15A "engine" fuse in the cabin fuse box, controlled by the IGN1 position of the key. Without the relay on, you will have no ignition, no fuel injector power, no ECU power for bunches of things...Need I go on?
It's located near the trailing coil pack, bolted to the side of the engine bay structure, just aft of the starter cut relay, if you have that option...
OK, first the main relay- yes, it should click, every time you turn the key on. If it's not clicking, that would explain all of your problems right there. Quit throwing parts at her & do some troubleshooting...
Main relay gets its juice from the 15A "engine" fuse in the cabin fuse box, controlled by the IGN1 position of the key. Without the relay on, you will have no ignition, no fuel injector power, no ECU power for bunches of things...Need I go on?
It's located near the trailing coil pack, bolted to the side of the engine bay structure, just aft of the starter cut relay, if you have that option...
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I know where it is and what it does. I have switched it for another known good relay and stil nothing. I will try it again. I have done some troubleshooting but couldn't find the source for the power, thankyou fo r providing some info. The reason I changed the CAS is because it wasn't giving a signal, and it only takes seconds to do. Thanks for the help guys
The ENGINE fuse is the fuse that causes the Main Relay to pull in and the fuel pump to work thru the Circuit Opening Relay.
Check the ENGINE FUSE in the crew compartment.
A bad ENGINE FUSE will result in no voltage to the coils and a lack of a fuel pump working.
Check the ENGINE FUSE in the crew compartment.
A bad ENGINE FUSE will result in no voltage to the coils and a lack of a fuel pump working.
The location of the ENGINE FUSE can be found about three quarters of the way down this site: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181219 The 87 fuse cover will do just fine for you.
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thank you very much Hailers for the help. Thank you. I should post a pic of this cars wiring harness so everyone can get a good laugh. It was taped with Hockey tape right over the exhaust manifold!!
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