88 problems with the 88
12-27-10, 12:14 AM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Salem, oregon
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
88 problems with the 88
So I'm a newb with the second gens and I,just bought,one a little over a month ago and so far ive had to replace the front struts and springs and water pump. So the last couple days its been smoking when I start it and the idle is terrible till the smoke clears out and sometimes it will have a really low idle when im stopped at a light or in traffic also it takes a while to start sometimes like its flooding everytime I shut it off or turn it on.....any ideas?
12-28-10, 10:47 PM
#7
there is a connector behind the water pump housing. un plug it. check to see if any of the pins have been pushed out of the connector that plugs into the sensor. if yes, push the pin back in, and carefully plug it back in.
sounds like you are running hella rich because of the water temp sensor not making good contact.
sounds like you are running hella rich because of the water temp sensor not making good contact.
Trending Topics
12-29-10, 01:36 AM
#8
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Salem, oregon
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Would that cause my add coolent light go off and that constant beep thats driving me crazy? Cause I just replaced the water pump but it still keeps going off and I add water and it doesnt ever take much
12-29-10, 01:58 AM
#10
if you are having to add coolant and the car smokes white and idles rough on first start up it could very well be a faulty coolant seal. this requires the removal of the engine and a disassembly to repalce the coolant seals... or you can replace the engine with a known good engine should this be the case.
12-29-10, 02:45 PM
#11
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Salem, oregon
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How do u burp it of air? I just replaced the water pump like i have in any other vehicle pop off the radiator cap and take the water pump off, replace, fill, warm up the car and fill some more
12-29-10, 02:47 PM
#12
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Salem, oregon
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I will be completely screwed if I have to replace the engine and most likely will have to burn down my dealer ship for selling me such a pain in the ***
12-29-10, 10:48 PM
#15
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: the dalles
Posts: 1,161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
there are two ways to test. easy way is to start it up and rev the engine with the coolant cap off. you can watch it as it goes by. if it seems normal, youre fine. but if it seems to bubble like champagne then its prolly blown.
the next way is to pressurize the system with a tester
the next way is to pressurize the system with a tester
12-29-10, 11:10 PM
#16
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Salem, oregon
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay if I have the radiator cap off and its full and I rev it the water just sucks down and flows by like normal.....is that a forsure way to test? and if it is why is my car smoking on start up? It runs fine while im driving it sometimes it idles low at stoppes but it runs really good
12-30-10, 12:18 AM
#19
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Salem, oregon
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry! It's my everyday driver and the only vehicle availible for me to drive day to day so I need to fix what ever is wrong as fast as possible or drive my car with problems, but ur right im sorry. So how many gallons of coolant will it take drained?
12-31-10, 12:37 PM
#21
Now With 10th AE Fun!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do the bubble test again, but this time cut the bottom of a soda bottle off and stick it in the radiator with the cut side up, then fill it up about half way with coolant, then test for bubbles, it's much easier to see them with the bottle.
01-02-11, 12:57 PM
#25
So at 10 minutes, it started bubbling....
That's enough time for the engine to warm up. Of course it's going to bubble. The coolant system is SEALED. That means whenever it heats up, it starts to expand, therefore pressurize. Pressurized fluid boils at a higher temperature. Water boils at 212F at atmospheric pressure. The reactors I work with don't boil, and temperatures are well over that, because the pressure is so high.
Is it smoking because it's cold outside? I see you live in OR, so it's got to be cold. Cars smoke when it's cold outside because gasoline burns and creates water and carbon dioxide (and some other stuff). Because the combustion temperature is hot, it doesn't come out in liquid form, it's water vapor. That's probably what's coming out of your exhaust. Now, about the running like crap until the smoke goes away, it's probably got something to do with running bad until warmed up.
Maybe coolant temperature sensor related? I don't know. It's hard to tell without looking at it. Look at section 4 of the FSM and see if the symptoms described there may be what you're experiencing.
http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_gen/index.html
If you have a voltmeter, check the voltage at the ECU for the temp sensor. It should be between .5 and 4.5 volts. If it's 0 or right at 5v, it's probably what's wrong.
That's enough time for the engine to warm up. Of course it's going to bubble. The coolant system is SEALED. That means whenever it heats up, it starts to expand, therefore pressurize. Pressurized fluid boils at a higher temperature. Water boils at 212F at atmospheric pressure. The reactors I work with don't boil, and temperatures are well over that, because the pressure is so high.
Is it smoking because it's cold outside? I see you live in OR, so it's got to be cold. Cars smoke when it's cold outside because gasoline burns and creates water and carbon dioxide (and some other stuff). Because the combustion temperature is hot, it doesn't come out in liquid form, it's water vapor. That's probably what's coming out of your exhaust. Now, about the running like crap until the smoke goes away, it's probably got something to do with running bad until warmed up.
Maybe coolant temperature sensor related? I don't know. It's hard to tell without looking at it. Look at section 4 of the FSM and see if the symptoms described there may be what you're experiencing.
http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_gen/index.html
If you have a voltmeter, check the voltage at the ECU for the temp sensor. It should be between .5 and 4.5 volts. If it's 0 or right at 5v, it's probably what's wrong.