cboehmer

iTrader: (8)

I've just "finished" my turbo swap in my 88 gxl, i used a s4 TII engine (US spec, not JDM) emissions delete (not by choice it was already gone). Today i went to start it up after filling with fluids and it cranks just fine but won't start.

I checked the coils, spark plugs, made sure my fuel lines are correct filter->primary rail->secondary rail->return on firewall. i have compression too. i pulled my primary rail off to see if my injectors were pulsing and they aren't. BUT with the key in the on position i am getting 12v to 1 wire on each injector plug. i replaced the EGI fuse, and engine fuse on the interior fuse panel.

Not sure what i should try next. Also the fuel pump doesn't come on with the key in the on position.. seems a little odd. but if i jumper the fuel pump plug in the driver side engine bay or open the AFM, the pump comes on.

other info is its an rtek 1.5 ecu and the NA engine harness.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Fuel pump does not engage w/key to on. The exceptions would be if the fuel check connector were jumpered or you opened the flap to the AFM. If neither of these things were done then the key would need to be set to start for the pump to activate.

cboehmer

iTrader: (8)

Ok that's weird but I guess it makes sense. Any ides why the injectors aren't firing? I went thru the fsm wiring diagram to make sure they are plugged in right, and still no dice. Even tried a diff set of primaries I had and they wouldn't open

satch

iTrader: (1)

Did you check w/key to start. And the only injectors that work w/key to start would be the primary injectors (not secondary).

If you had a spare CAS you could plug it in and while held by hand you could spin it w/key to on and the primary injectors should click.

cboehmer

iTrader: (8)

Yes I was checking the primaries while cranking the engine over. I pulled them out the engine and had a buddy watch with a paper towel for fuel. Nothing. Unfortunately I don't have a spare CAS to test with. I'm thinking it could be a problem with my ground connections.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Pins 3E (Light Green wire) and 3C (Light Green/Black wire) of the ECU are for the primary injectors. The voltage should be 12 volts w/key to on and w/key to start the voltage should drop. This is probably your problem as you denoted earlier that only one of the two wires at the injectors had voltage when in fact both wires should be carrying 12 volts w/key to on.

And what color wire at the injector had 12 volts. Either it was Black/Yellow or Green.

cboehmer

iTrader: (8)

so at the primary injector plugs in the engine bay the black/yellow wire is getting 12v with the key on and the lg and lg/b don't show any power

satch

iTrader: (1)

There might be a problem in or at the injector plug. The plug needs to be connected to the plug for the voltage from the B/Y wire to be passed to the Green wire. Thus if the plug is disconnected from the injector then you cannot have voltage on both wires w/key to on and this is my best guess as to why you are only measuring voltage on the B/Y wire and not Green.

If by chance the plug is connected to the injector then the Green wires must be pulled back within the plug and not mating w/the injector.

cboehmer

iTrader: (8)

Here are my findings at the ECU side of things. SO, i checked the black/yellow wire and it had 12v with the key on. I checked the lg and lg/black and they had 0.. so i went back to the engine bay and found out i forgot to plug the injectors back in.. so when they were plugged in i had 12v at the lg and lg/black at the ECU plug.


*Edit* so i do have 12v at both wires in the engine bay.. i was testing without the injector plugged in (didn't know it would matter..) so with the primaries plugged in im getting 12v at both the black/yellow and lg and lg/black in the engine bay and ECU (with the plug plugged in and poking my test lead into the back side of it)

satch

iTrader: (1)

Then you need to check the pins at the ECU to see if the voltage drops w/key to start. You could also take an LED light and connect one wire to the ECU pin for one of the primary injectors and the other wire to pin 3I (Black/White wire) for voltage w/key to start and if the ECU is pulsing the injector then the light will flash quickly w/key to start.

cboehmer

iTrader: (8)

OK so i tried that, i tried to do the LED part but it was kind of a pain so i just used my multi-meter. anyway, at the ECU with the key to "start" voltage drops to 9v then down to 7v then up to 9v, then down to 7v etc.. then back to 12v when the key is set to "on"

satch

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like the ECU is doing its job then. Either the plugs to the injectors were not secure when testing them or the injectors are just clogged. And make sure you have the primary pin wires running to the primary injectors and not the secondary ones. If by chance you had the secondary wires running to the primaries then they would not activate w/key to start.

cboehmer

iTrader: (8)

Ok so I think I figured it out.. I pulled the return hose off the firewall hard line and then jumped the fuel pump maintenance switch to get it to work when the key was set to on.. oddly enough no fuel came out the return line (but the pump was definitely going) Then I noticed the stock FPR was on the primary rail and not the end of the secondary. So i swapped it, and then tried again and got a nice flow of gas out the return hose. Glad my ecu is working fine.

Will attempt to start once the gas I spilled has evaporated.