Man this thing is driving me nuts! Well not"driving" I guess since it wont START! Nuts none the less though! Anyway, yes I checked the fuel pump it read 87psi at the tank but replaced it anyway. Filters are new. Got spark (it runs when I pour gas down the intake). Resistance on the crank sensor is between 87 and 113 ohms. Cant seem the get a steady reading. Could be the problem? Not sure. The injector leads from the computer (ignition off) is sendind a ground signal(Green wires) the brown wires are 12v pos with the key on dead with the key off. Now rear secondary injectors ground signal is making my power probe sound like its sending out morris code! I thought she was trying to tell me something but no its giberish. So I checked this wire for continuity and it seems fine no bleeps and no resistance(this was up-plugged from the comp) Maybe the comp then? Well I got one from the salvage yard and it does the exact same thing! I guess two comps could have the same exact issue but what are the chances?? So I pulled the upper intake to check the comp ground and its fine. Got gas at the rails but I dont think the injectors are opening. Can I bypass something or hard wire something to narrow the problem down?? Any help will be appreciated. My next step will be to carburate this thing before I tear out the rest of my hair!

 

Do you have a spare CAS? And check the Brown/White wire at either the TPS or Boost Sensor for 5 volts w/key to on.

 

No, no spare sensor. I can get one at the yard from the same donor I got the comp from. The TPS would keep it from firing the injectors? I thought it just made adjustments to the fuel after the car was already running?

 

The Br/W wire powers the engine sensors. If it had the incorrect voltage then the car would not start. You could pull the CAS, depower the coils and w/key to on you could spin the CAS wheel and you should hear only the primary injectors clicking.

And have you ever started this car before and had it running properly?