Okay so an n/a fc was the first car I ever owned. I loved it. Did some mods like an intake, full exhaust, struts, springs, strut bars, momo wheel and a short shifter. Car had such a great feel and it was a ton of fun. Of course, everyone kinda gets tired of that n/a speed

Anyways, long story short, I'm now driving an 87 turboII and it's amazing. Just got the car going and it has

fresh rebuild, all new seals, fd corner springs
Extended streetport
3inch exhaust
stock s4 turbo
ported wastegate
disabled twin scroll
omp delete
aluminum radiator
electric cooling fan (needs shroud)
FCD
walbro 255 pump
old school hks BOV (sounds sweet)
aem wideband
still running stock 550cc injectors
act clutch
act alb flywheel

oookay now I know I need to go with some bigger injectors but I need to wait until I go to some sort of computer. I'm still looking at my options. looking at rtek but more leaning towards spending more money on a haltech and ditching the old wiring harness. I will eventually go front mount at that point and focus on cooling.

Also the car lags a bit under about 3 -3.5k. This is, as I'm suspecting, is because of the porting and disabled twin scroll? Anything that can help the car get a little more low end power? However, I do have a SHITLOAD of top end.

What injectors should I look at? I'm leaning out for a split second right before the secondaries come on but it's really not bad. any ideas? Thanks guys. I'm loving boooooost.

 

"stock S4 turbo"

"shitload of top end"
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Probably right about the lack of grunt down low, assuming there aren't any timing issues or vac/exhaust leaks. As far as the lean spot, higher than stock boost will do that, hence why the rtek lowers the secondary transition point. Hope those injectors have been recently cleaned and/or you have an upgraded fuel pump or you might be getting to see the insides of that new motor sooner rather than later.

 

well it feels like a shitload of topend hahaha

injectors were cleaned and flow tested! and I'm on a walbro pump

 

i had the same trouble with my S4 T2, there was this stop sign on a hill, and MAN that thing would just NOT MOVE until it hit 3000rpm, so if you were on foot, you'd have won across the intersection.

i fixed it with a 20B.

but after the 3 rotor, i did a really similar 13B-T combo, except with an S5 turbo, and it was WAY better, in fact throttle response was awesome, car was totally a hoot to drive, even though it was only running 6-7psi.

so if you already have the 3" exhaust, i'd look for an S5 manifold and hotside

 

And I don't think its a vacuum leak because the car holds a great idle at 1100. And also the car keeps going through clutch fluid (dot 3?) i think? really fast. It gets harder to put in gear and I've had to fill it up twice in the past two days.

 

yes I am really wanting to go with an s5 turbo or hybrid. It just kind of sucks because I spent mostly all of my funds just getting the car to this point.

 

S5 turbo is WAY better, definitely worth it if you can find one. 1100 isn't an idle....

 

well what should my car with a fresh rebuild be idling at? I wouldn't want it much lower..

 

Since you're pegging the boost, I assumed you had already broken in the engine..... In which case it should be idling where every other properly assemble/tuned non-ported engine idles......750-850 rpm....or somewhere remotely close. If it hasn't been broken in then 1100 isn't unreasonable, a better alternative than stalling all the time at least.

Check the fsm procedure for setting idle, you can't when the rpm is at 1100, the ecu will adjust timing to offset your changes.

 

Your clutch fluid.... check your clutch hose by the slave cylinder by the oil filter. my 87 tii is leaking clutch fluid there too. i just ordered a stainless steel clutch hose from

http://www.mazdatrix.com/f-hydral.htm

for $18.00 if its not leaking there check for fluid at the slave cyl or master cyl. the fluid is leaking somewhere getting air in the system making it hard to shift/ get into gears.

i would def. get the twinscroll back on. it makes your turbo spool up way faster. i disabled mine to compare and its faster with the twinscrool by far.

def. get bigger injectors and a computer asap you dont have enough fuel for your mods. last thing you want is a blown motor.

first off get a fan shroud and fix your clutch leak. then worry about fuel injectors.

congrats and welcome to the turbo club. post some pics.

 

so some 720 secondaries are in the works and i'm going to order an rtek 1.7 shortly. Heres some pics guys..


Old school hks super blow off valve from japan. Sounds really nice

 

That was a shitty pic..

flywheel before clutch


this was another shitty pic. Custom shroud with efan. Temporary setup

 

 

 

Coilovers and paint are in the future too!

 

3inch exhaust is almost to big for the stock turbo.

I have the same setup minus the port,2 1/2 exhaust, and an s5 turbo and I have NO turbo lag.

Also your aftermarket clutch is kicking your 20+year old clutch slave and master. Might as well replace both along with the rubber line. Fairly cheap fix.

Have you replaced your shifter bushings?

 

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It's an emusa core. Got it really cheap. Core looks solid but the piping was a pain in the *** on the drivers side. Passenger side fit really well. Make sure if you buy one of these kits, or any knock off kit you check the inside of the piping. Mine had a ton of little metal flakes left over from the cutting I assume. Cleaned that out ASAP. Pics of the gp front next.

 

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And that's how she sits. She's gonna be a little bit lower on tokico blues and tanabe springs that I have laying around. I wanna do coilovers but I'm gonna have to wait on funds. Oh and my fuel system is getting there too

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Oh and side skirts and rear are going on soon. It's just hard getting everything done when this is my daily and I have school and work during the week and then work on weekends. Let me know what you guys think!

 

body kits are gross, just saying

disabling the "tsudo" twin scroll does hurt low response just becasue the manifold and turbine inlet has such a turbulent/crappy design resulting in a lot of negative work, S5 far in flow and response time (much less turbulence/no negative work) as they are true divided twin scroll units.

 

does that radiator with the red shroud deal even cool i would think that red thing would make it run hott !

 

The shroud's purpose is to allow the fan to suck air through the rad and not allow air from the engine bay to make it's way to to the fan.
A fan setup without a shroud is like..what is the word?....ya..Useless!..decoration..

 

I don't know if that last comment was directed at me but yeah, that shroud was only temporary and it worked a lot better than not having a shroud at all. I was able to pick up an oem fan and shroud that cools awesome though.

 

lol...