Okay, well guys, I searched, I have read a number of threads on here, I'm familiar with rotary resurrection's write up for emissions removal. This is what I came up and used when I reinstalled the motor and new everything.

My car runs great right now, I just want to triple check that this is okay, I posted this in my build up thread but that thread doesn't see a ton of action. I am finishing up the last couple of little things but I noticed that my boost Autometer boost gauge isn't reading much vacuum at idle. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

What's 'not much' vacuum? I believe it's supposed to be about 12-14inHg at 750RPM.

 

I'm not really sure according to the new gauge it was barely registering, could it be because I have like twenty feet of vac tube between the gauge and the nipple?? I just ran the hose and didn't cut it yet because I am still finalizing the install of the gauge, I just wanted to see if it worked.

But what about the diagram, does everything look kosher?

Thanks SOL!!

 

i put m boost gauge there also and it didnt work so i had to change spots

 

I think that could possibly cause incorrect readings. If you can, you might want to run a stiffer line instead. I think a lot of gauges come with nylon tube.

I recently did emissions/vac rack removal and those things look good to me, I think the main idea with all those 'whisker' nipples is that they see the intake pressure before the throttle body, so as long as you used the same sized nipple to swap stuff around, I think you could switch lines around the whiskers with each other if it makes more sense for routing. Someone correct that if it's wrong...

 

hey nj green try using the bottom port on the front of the TB. some spots dont give accurate readings

 

The only nipple on the back that reads vacuum is the very bottom one.

And 7 does not go to the water thermowax. The thermowax has no vacuum assist on it. The 7 goes to the water thermo valve, a different item altogether.

The 4, 5, 6 all lead to passages prior to the throttle plates.

 

what does that mean?

 

Vacuum is on the rotor side of the throttle plates. The numbers relate to the jpg attached in the threads above.

 

I have like ten feet of hard nylon tube that came with the gauge, how dou you connect this stuff to a vac nipple??



Okay, would there be any reason not to use 7 for both the water thermo and the boost gauge??

I see what you mean there about the thermowax having no vac lines, I guess I was kinda clumping it together with the water thermo valve, am I correct to assume that's the valve which lets coolant flow over the t-wax to melt the wax and let the piston release as the car warms up?

Thanks for clearing that up man.

 

You'd use a piece of soft vac line on the intake nipple, then insert a barbed adapter with a crush fitting on the other end to seal onto the nylon tube. My gauge came with those fittings, did yours? If not, you might be able to find something suitable at a hardware store.

 

You could tee them together. Won't hurt anything.

Then again, see if the double throttle diaphram is any good in the first place. Put a piece of vacuum line on it and see if it will hold a vacuum or not. If it does not, then just don't run a line to the water thermo valve at all and use that nipple number seven just for your boost gauge.

Just in case: The water thermo valve feeds vacuum to the double throttle diaphram when the engine is cold, in order to hold the outer set of secondary throttle plates closed (as a choke), until the engine is warm. After the engine is warm it has no function at all (the water thermovalve and double throttle diaphram).

I've never owned one of these cars that had a working double throttle diaphram. All the diaphrams are cracked and busted. Only effects running of the engine cold for the first couple of miles and not even then if you treat the engine kindly when cold in the first place.

EDIT: All the above is a hint to just use the bottom nipple for your boost gauge and forget about a functioning water thermo valve/double throttle diaphram.

If you have a ACV blockoff plate, consider installing a nipple or two on it for your boost gauge ...someday.

 

So if I go ahead and don't run a line to the water thermo valve does this mean that the thermowax won't move the fast idle cam during warm up? I'm just a little confused, do the double throttle diaphragm and thermowax affect the idle the same way or are they two completely separate systems? I'm not too familiar with the double throttle system but I have a good idea of the thermowax and fast idle stuff.

Thanks so much guys, I really appreciate the help here.

 

The water thermo valve has nothing at all to do with the water termowax. Nothing at all. Zip.

The water thermovalve controls the double throttle diaphram. If the diaphram is busted, then the water thermovalve controls......nothing.

 

Okay, I searched and I think I understand now.

I'll check to see if it holds vac and go from there.

Thanks of the info man.