looking bad *** man! time for another video haha. how many miles u got on it now
?

 

That looks way hella better with the coilovers. Is it alot stiffer than your other setup?

 

This is how it sat with the KYB AGX shocks and Racing Beat Lowering springs.


I agree that it looks loads better with the Stance GR+ installed.

As far as the ride, the coilovers are set on 6 out 15 for Dampening and it ride great on nice flat roads. It's a little firmer than the KYB + RB setup right now, on 15 it would most likely be jarring, and set to the softest setting it's probably very comfortable.

My previous setup was excellent and I highly recommend both components but the bonus of built in camber plates and ride height adjustment was enough to make me get the Stance. Honestly, the ride "feel" isn't as important to me as the ride quality, the car seems more centered yet nimble with the coils and I absolutely love the way it looks. The drop has benefits for handling plus looks.

 

Sweet project, it's coming along nicely. Good choice of music thar

I gotta say I wasn't digging your rim choice... until the slammed pictures

 

Thanks a lot man. Slammage definitely makes it look nicer.

I've got some other stuff going on right now, like a custom center dash panel thing with some nice new autometer gauges....in the process.

 

Update.

Some nice autometer carbon gauges in the custom center panel, water temp, oil temp and oil pressure. I put the boost gauge on the a pillar and also installed the Greddy Profec B Spec 2 boost controller. We'll be increasing the boost to 10psi shortly here.









I do plan on moving both the boost controller and the air fuel display into the center panel but I haven't got there yet.

 

Your car is definitely GREAT inspiration to a lot of people that come here on the forum.

Love the center console, though, I couldn't do that down here in Florida, I HAVE to have A/C or i'll die. :P

 

Thanks man, the a/c and heat were deemed unnecessary for my intentions so I was able to remove them, though I wouldn't mind the a/c on some of the 100'F 90% humidity days here in NJ.

 

Ughh, I just spent 5 hours rewiring the Walboro, moved the relay and resistor to the back along with a new relay and power from the battery. But it's done so no worries about the fuel pump getting enough voltage under boost now. I've been putting it off for a while but it was rainy today and seemed like a good idea before upping the boost to 10 psi.

I used this diagram :

 

I went back and removed the resistor and relay for the fuel pump and ended up running the power right from the new relay to the pump.

I got a chance to do a little tweaking with the Profec B Spec 2 today. I'm starting slow and going to work my way up to 10 psi. Before the boost controller it was running just 5 psi. I turned it up to 6.5psi just to get the feel for making adjustments and keep tabs on the fuel.

Using the Rtek7 I logged a few pulls on the Palm pilot while I was tuning the boost. I noted some spots where the AFR would rise into the 12's around 2,200-3,800rpms. I went ahead and added some fuel in the lower rpms so we'll see if that takes care of that.

I'll see what the new AFR's are tomorrow and if we're all good then we'll shoot for 8psi, then 10. I think we'll be okay though, the afr's under boost are pretty solid @ 11.5:1 so far.

 

Since you have datalogging capability, check your boost curve after each time you adjust the gain and crack pressure on the spec 2. You want the greatest area under the boost curve.

 

Not the best example but here's a quick screen shot from yesterday:


When you say crack pressure you're referring to the Set Gain right? I have this at 3psi simply because it was suggested to start 4psi below target boost, as I raise the boost I'm going to raise the Set Gain to stay 4psi behind and see what happens.

Hopefully we can make it up to at least 8 or 9 psi today. I'll keep you posted.

 

Fiddle with it and get it to your target boost level first. Then start messing with set gain and the other values. The datalogging is very valuable because it will give you confirmation of slow boost creep, or boost overshooting, or just an increase in boost response. It's much better than the seat-of-the-pants method of watching the boost gauge and feeling the *** dyno.

One of the reasons why they tell you to put the set gain 4psi less than the target pressure is to account for differences in weather. They don't want you to have too aggressive of settings in case something happens that could increase the chance of a boost spike.

 

So I had a minor setback. I killed my boost controller when I was rewiring some stuff in the dash. Oops. good news is that I was able to find a guy with a Profec B spec 2 for sale with a cracked case but perfectly working internals. I managed to snag the solenoid and controller for less than $100, even with the initial $200 purchase for the profec I'm not up to retail yet, so I cut myself some slack in the shame dept.

I was also experiencing some problems with the gauges I had installed and traced it down to bad grounds for the sensors. I added new grounds for the senders and am pleased to say that they have been working right since then.



But I do have a question about the car though, after rewiring the fuel pump I have noticed that this sucker is running rich as a pig at idle. The NGK A/Fx is reading in the low 11's and high 10's at idle when warming up. The exhaust smells even more like gas and even has a black tint to it when the car is warming up.

I think the walbro is pumping more fuel at idle since I removed the stock fuel pump relay and resistor when I rewired. I was told it would run richer at idle but this is too much, the black smoke scared me the other day when I noticed it.

I'm thinking about going into the Rtek and pulling some fuel from the maps to lean it out at idle.

What should AFR's be at idle? My idle is pretty high when cold, up to 1400 rpms and slowly winds down to 800rpms once hot. The AFR is still in the 11's at 1400rpm at idle.

Where in the map should I pull some fuel, I imagine it would only need to be trimmed under vaccum, maybe up to -2 psi up to 1000rpms?

I appreciate any help here because I'm just learning about tuning and don;t want to do anything stupid like blow my fresh motor.

 

Go to page 19 of the Rtek manual, it explains how to adjust the variable resistor for idle mixture control from within the ECU. Aim for between 12.5:1 - 13.5:1 . The idle is that rich because you do not have an air pump. Rotaries actually idle rich from the factory and the air pump/ACV inject air into the mixture for cleaner combustion. I'm not sure how effective the variable resistor function will be, as I've only used an Rtek 1.7 + SAFC combo. It may completely ignore adjustments you make in the fuel map when in idle. Save/write down your previous settings, as it's easy to make the car run worse before it runs better.

Now personally I idle the Rx-7's I've tuned at about 12.8:1 , but it'll fluctuate a little bit based on ambient conditions. Once you get over 13:1 you can lose idle stability on some cars. I don't think you can directly adjust the warmup idle fuel curve on the Rtek.

I normally aim for about 12:1 cold, but if it's richer than that (and the variable resistor didn't help) don't worry about it, it's a modded car and you can't expect it to run like stock, not without a gazillion hours spent tuning a standalone. At least it's not cutting off on you.

 

I'm thinking it's more the rewired fuel pump because I haven't had the air pump for months and noticed this after I reweried the pump the other day.

When I had the Air pump hooked my wideband was reading around14.5-15.5 at idle, now that was with a gutted ACV basically blowing tons of air into the exhaust ports.

W/o the air pump it used to idle in the upper 12's or low 13's.

After I rewired the fuel pump it's around 11.5-12.5.

I think it's because the fuel pump is getting full voltage at idle now instead of 9v.

I'll try that variable resistor idle trick with the Rtek as well.



Thanks.

 

did you ever get the idle leaned out?

 

Not yet, I haven't had a chance, been real busy with other stuff lately. I am putting up a 30'x50' garage with my pops when I'm not at work. Not much time for cars but I did manage to install foglights, lowering springs and a catback exhaust on my S60. The Volvo doesn't get too many mods so it was quite exciting and it's looking pretty sick right now.


I'm gonna see what I can do with the idle adjustments via the variable resistor feature in the Rtek, if that doesn't work I'll just adjust the fuel map in vacuum.

I appreciate your help though. I'll post here when I adjust it and get some new vids and pics.

 

So, I still haven't tried to correct the idle AFR but I did manage to get the 7 into it's new home. I helped my dad build this 30 x 50 ft steel garage, in return the 7 gets to stay in here instead of a tent garage.





















My goal at this time is to finish making the new molds for the center panel so I can put it back in the dash and hook up all the gauges. I had to switch out the bad boost controller and need to find the settings again. I'm interested in staying with the TMIC as long as safely possible, so 10psi should be sufficient. If I get bored with the car at 10psi then we'll install the FMIC. After that who knows, maybe a bigger turbo? Have to wait and see what happens.

Maybe a paint and body job sooner or later too.

 

Bitchin

 

Nice garage! Do you have plans to add insulation?...and a good heater?..anyways keep the updates coming. The car looks good in there BTW.

 

We're installing a wood burning forced air furnace for heat, we have lots of firewood so we should be toasty once it is installed. I don't know about insulation though, maybe blow some foam on the inside, I don't know for sure yet.

 

You are absolutely right about the Walbro and rewire making the car run more rich at idle.

The stock fuel pressure regulator cannot bypass enough fuel with the rewired Walbro and it raises the fuel pressure.

For idle and low load running (vacuum to 0 boost) you can run whatever AFR the car responds best to and every port/manifold configuration is different.

A surging idle or surging during closed loop cruising means it is too lean, under light throttle a cutting out of power feeling is too lean whereas a feeling of stuttering is too rich.

 

Thanks for confirming that, I still have to get around to adjusting the fuel for idle and low load. Though, I wonder if it would be better to get an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator and lower the psi at the fuel rail rather than try to tune it out through the fuel map?? Will the higher psi reduce the lifespan of my injectors?

 

can i come over and play in ur garage too?


=]