Let me find them, I usually don't keep them after going to the track (20-30 runs a day, is alot of slips )

You should take less time telling me to STFU and learn to drive however.

 

buy the plug n play megasquirt!@!!! its what, like $500?
then get used exhaust parts from the forum


wow .44 CD? what a brick.
there are only a handful of cars that have a better CD than the FC w/ the sport aero package.

 

I say you tell him to suck on a Bananna and that youve got the better looking car... Thats one nice FC, im kinda jelous...

well, as far as i know about NA FCs, theres not a whole bunch you can do to "Bolt On" some power. I hear Karen has hit the 200hp mark(or surpassed it, i duno) but has done internal work. I hate to admit it, but I think turbo is the best way to go in strait-line power, but there too expensive. As ive really seen, the NA Rotary Engines have always shine in the twisties, not too good for Drag unless youve got money. or able to rebuild alot.
Takem to the twisties and then see whats what.


first of all, make sure your engine is working good, missing basic maintance will screw you out of hp thats supposed to be there. make sure your 5th and 6th port actuators are working then Get some decent Bolt-on stuff(ie Racing Beat Header and some High Flow Catback, SAFC, ect...) but dont go wild. Reduce your weight where ever you can with out sacraficing creature comforts and then get a nice suspension setup, and perfect your driving ability. you'd ether beat him or atleast see what you need to beat him... shouldnt be too hard.

oh yeah, with that CAI, make sure you duct it to where hot engine air will not enter the engine. Cooler air should help abit and the hot air will make it just worthless. Add ons are good but not unless your engine is working right in the firstplace...

 

The Solstice isn't that quick, even if lightened a little. I think you can pull it off. I agree with everyone else: check all maintenance/tune-up items, full exhaust, CAI ducting, SAFC, weight reduction, driving practice. I don't think you need a nice suspension for drag racing, though for other driving it is preferable over power.

Synthetic tranny oil, especially Neo or Royal Purple, will make for easier shifting. Royal Purple in engine, tranny and differential will also buy a couple HP. Also saves around half an mpg, so you slowly get your money back. Good oil and gas (Chevron, 76, Shell) is important for keeping your engine clean. For dino oil Castrol GTX seems popular, though there are others (and other synthetics). I'd try the Techron fuel system cleaner if you don't mind blowing $10 on a minor help. Otherwise good gas will do it over time. All of these, except maybe the tranny oil, are either of small help or else take a long time to show an improvement. But hey, they're easy and you should be changing all your fluids anyway.

 

wow that's a lot of advce....i did the CAI today and i'm ducting it off tomorrow or tuseday

 

Full exhaust, good driving, SAFC with a tune, and major weight reduction.

 

I ran a 15.99 with an RB DP/presilencer, bonez intake, and RB flywheel. It was also the first time I was ever at a drag strip and had old Kumho 711's, so I spun the tires then let up and bogged, then missed the 1-2 shift. Plus my aux ports weren't opening. And I attached the time slip.

 

Also, do you happen to know the paint code for that paint? Thats exactly the color I want for my car.

 

single exhaust to drop a few pounds off your wieght. although i love the duals haha. good tires for grip, a full exhaust, intake, standalone fuel system, and a good tune up can pump up the horses, and get rid of the airpump for wieght cus you dont need it on the s4

 

A stock FC is not great in twisties either, I would put money on the Solstice in that department as well.

 

it's 2004 midnight bleu

 

Solistice is what...MR?

 

Pontiac Solistice RWD 177hp 2.4L 4cylinder 2860 lbs

 

no, FR

 

FR is what?

 

I wouldn't be so quick to say it.

 

All this ruckus just to beat a solstice? I figured there would be bigger fish to fry..

 

Im not sure this even belongs in the seconf gen tech section..

 

FF: frint engined, front wheel drive (most cars today are FF)
FR: front engine, rear wheel drive (most sports cars are FR)
MR: mid engine, rear wheel drive (this includes most racecars and supercars)
RR: rear engined, rear wheel drive (mostly just porsche)

 

You forgot AWD, but I'll let you go this time

 

Why not?

 

Because no matter how new it is. It is still a pontiac... Do you see all the pontiacs at the junk yards? That has to say something.

 

FC's can be very good in the twisties. With a good suspention and good tires they can be amazing. With mods in the sig (except there was 190k on the original engine) the previous owner would whip up on trailored in 944 race cars at a true race track. I've never driven a stock 7, so I can't say much about how they are pre-mods.

 

Don't forget the DMC-12, another prominent RR car, or the VW Beetle.

Sideways, I think we all agree with that, but GtoRx7 said "stock," and I have to agree with him. I had a 20-year-old stock RX-7 that left a lot to be desired in the handling department. Replace all the bushings, new shocks and springs, and DTSS eliminators would have gone a LOOOONG way to make the car better though.

I don't know what the big deal is all about. N/A RX-7's can be relatively quick (certainly moreso than a Solstice), and some of you guys are acting like they are dogs. For those of you who can't produce respectable times, I would guess that you don't know what you're doing, either with driving or modding the car (or both).

All bullshit aside though, that's a very nice-looking car. And I'd much rather own that than a Solstice, honestly.

 

we can't compare a stock FC's handling or call it good or bad or whatever. There are hardly any in stock form that aren't worn the **** out.