So... Two of the four GREEN injector clips on my 87.5 Turbo II wiring harness have broken (one primary, one secondary). They've broken in the sense that the plastic "edge" has chipped off, meaning that the metal 'clip' itself has nothing to 'lock' into, therby causing a loose connection... I'm hoping that I can cut off a couple good RED connectors/clips from a spare '87 N/A wiring harness that I have laying around, and then wire them into my 87.5 TII wiring harness.

I stripped the 'cover' off of the wires on both harnesses and noticed that the wire colors are different. SO, if I can make the swap, does anyone know what wires need to be spliced together?

The colors on the Turbo harness are:
~olive green and cream with orange banding
~brown and cream with blue banding

The colors on the N/A harness are:
~Black and yellow
~light green and red with red banding

Thanks!

 

Alright, well I've determined that the clip 'layout' is the same and that the Turbo's brown cream and blue-banded wire is seeing the 12V. That is in line with the common-sense deduction that the N/A's black and yellow wire is the ground.

If anyone cares to chime in and correct me if I'm wrong feel free.

I will be spicing the Turbo olive green, cream and orange-banded wire with the N/A black and yellow wire.

And I will then be splicing the Turbo brown, cream and blue-banded wire with the N/A light green, red and red-banded wire.

~Erik

 

Alright, scratch that.

The black/yellow wire appears that it was intended to be 12V. I just did a 'splice-test' and with the above method the two 'pins' in the clip were backwards. Meaning, with the "new" clip setup (compared to the stock/non-spliced and working one), the pin on the 'right' was the ground, but on the stock connector it was 12V.

I'm not sure if it matters, but since I don't know I'll just try to mimic the stock configuration. Hmm...

BTW, my computer is for some reason unable to download any of the .PDF FSM files available to see what it has to say about wire color, and sadly I'm not 'computer savvy' enough to fix the error.

 

polarity doesn't matter, the wires can be reversed, the only thing to keep track of is which connector goes to which injector on the rails.

if you need new injector clips do a search of my history for "injector clips", i recently posted up info for buying new clips.

 

Heh... Changed my mind again. I failed to notice that the clips themselves were slightly different. I.E. The 'notches' used for allignment of 'injector into plug' were different, meaning what I believe to be differences in between HIGH/LOW impedence. I remember having to 'shave off' the notch when modifying my '88 Turbo II to accept the Greddy 720cc injectors, and resistors were necessary...

I'm not taking any chances, so I (luckily) had another wiring harness available that turned out to have the same style plug and the same wire color.

I guess I mistakenly believed that the N/A wiring harness that I originally found was from an '87 N/A, when in reality it must be from an '88. Hence the difference in the square clip design and wire colors from different years.

That being said, I still have no idea whether or not all my troubleshooting is necessary, regarding the 'wire to pin' location OR the 87 to 88 low/high impedence clip difference.

 

The polarity does not matter. Injectors are non-polar. So you can connect the wires however you want.

As for the clips, I generally just shave the little tab off of the injector. This allows me to use BRAND NEW weather-pack style injector clips (available at most auto parts stores). They are weather tight and have a wonderful little metal clip with a release "button" instead of the aweful OEM style that you must pick at. Personally I would never bother to pull connectors off of another wire harness no matter how nice they look.

 

test the resistance of the injectors, if they are 2-3ohm then it will need the resistor block at the RF fender, if they are 12-13ohm injectors then it should not have a resistor block, depending on the model you can remove the block by cutting and soldering the wires from the resistor block to harness together.

to check the wiring just run a lead from a ohmmeter to the ECU plug and to injector plug, measure the resistance of each of the 4 driver circuit wires, they should not be more than a few ohms each with the plugs disconnected.

 

use what ever clip fits on the dang injector erik!

injectors are just switched negative pulses so it doesnt matter how you hook them up.

 

after like 10 blown motors i think he just wants to be sure it is right this time. j/m

 

HAHA! STFU... LOL

Yeah, everything's looking good right now and I just used the similar plugs like I said I was going with. So yeah... I'm just gonna set the TPS real quick before buttoning everything up.

BTW, my latest project that I'm just now finishing up was:

~Remove the A/C system
~Remove the OMP setup
~Remove ALL emission related garbage and stock rats-nest
~Install a full set of 2751 Engineering BOP's
~Redo the engine-bay fuel-lines, left-over vac. lines, grounds and some of the harness
~Clean every single part (LOL)
~Install T-Fab DP/MP combo
~Install a new (stock) turbo and port the WG

And I'm just about ready to start it up and *hopefully* it will have been a success.

One thing that's confusing me and kind of troubling is that my "little" stock E-fan (in front of the RAD) is currently not working... I had to remove it to pull out the A/C condensor-core and upon reistalling it (after making sure it's electrical plug was secure), for some reason it's not kicking ON...? Anyone have any imput on this? I seriously just unplugged it and had it set aside for about a 1/2 hour while I worked on the A/C core, before reinstalling it just like it was before... Except now, it no workie.

 

Woot! Update: Everything's running smmmooth... Rock solid idle, great vac. pressure, smooth revving and MUCH better top-end power than my old exhaust/turbo setup. Which was a stock turbo trying to squeeze through a Bonez DP/MP setup which is 2.5" but tapers down to 2".

Couple things; my (narrow-band) A/F gauge just stopped working? Don't know if the O2 sensor is dead, or if the splice into it's wire (for the gauge) has died... Either way, it's a bit unnerving driving with nothing registering on what was once a very active and helpful gauge.

Upon my first WOT run I was somewhat suprised to notice more lag than my old setup in the lower RPM's. Don't get me wrong, I understand that going WOT at 2k RPM's in 1st gear will bog (so I don't)--but the car spools slower than it did in my old 2.5" setup... And I moved to 80mm. So of course the first thing I checked was to see if my twin-scroll setup was working.

I popped the hood and manually toggled the throttle and expected to see the 'arm' move into the open position at 2800RPM's and it didn't... Does it only move under load? Of couse, when I popped off the vac. line going to the T/S setup, the arm promptly went into the open position, so I know it's not locked up or anything.

I guess my question is, why the lag? BTW, I disconnected the twin-scroll--so it was always open and I noticed no difference in performance... Weird. I have since hooked it back up. Also, I'm running N/A rotors, so I expect a bit better response, which I'm not getting.

On the other hand, top-end power is wonderful. The boost creeps to 10psi in 3rd gear with my Profec EBC OFF, but I guess that's pretty normal with my ported (stock flapper) WG. The sound on the other hand is almost embarassing. It's LOUD. Like I said, I'm running the ThunderFab 80mm DP/MP bolted onto an Apexi N1 dual setup. It's a good comparison for me, because my previous Turbo II had an 80mm DP/MP but was bolted to the (famed) Apexi GT Spec exhaust... GT > N1 by a fair margain.

I'll probably do a run with the boost controller set to oh... 12-13psi? It should be pretty nice.

 

Erik... leave the boost alone man. You're an addict. lol. And, Karack, Erik's last motor he built is still running... just hit 3,300 miles : ) haha

Josh

 

1) larger exhaust means higher end power with a loss of torque, you will notice a small lack of low end throttle response/power.

2) the lack of throttle response could be due to the new turbo, it needs to be broken in before it flows freely, bearing tend to be sticky when new so give it some time.

is this a fresh rebuilt engine?

 

Nah, it's not a fresh build. It's an RA seal'd motor with a street-port and 9:4 rotors with about 15-20k miles. But yeah, good tip on the turbo. I have no idea how long it was sitting. It does feel a LOT more solid in the top-end though.