86 na hard to start
09-15-01, 11:05 AM
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86 na hard to start
This is a repost from the 2nd gen tech support, I'm sure not everyone frequents that forum so I figrued I'd get a ebtter response if I posed under both,
This is a friends car that I'm fixing. When the car is cold, you have to crank and crank the engine, After probably the third or fourth long crank it shows some signs of life. It will slowly start, first a few pops, then it gets faster and faster until it actually starts. While its 'starting' you have to keep the starter engaged or it will die.
The car has a rebuilt engine (no compression probs), primary injectors don't leak, lots of fuel preasure. The BAC valve is blocked off, but the AWS solenoid is hooked to a switch so that once the engine starts it holds at 2k rpm.
Timing is bang on, tps is set, idle speed is set at about 850 to compensate for no BAC. All the vaccuum lines have been replaced and it has a new fuel filter.
There is a smell of fuel after cranking the engine for a while, I don't think that it is a flooding problem though, if I pull the EGI fuse and do the unflooding procedure it does nothing, there also used to be a fuel cutoff switch(now used for AWS) but I took it ouf because it didn't help at all.
There is spark at all the plugs. I did notice though that it was't a very blue spark.
Once it does start it takes a while before it runs on its own, even after the AWS kicks off, it seems to have a bit of a miss at idle.
Also, could a "too free flowing" exhaust not have enough back preasure for the engine to start? It seems that it spins quicker (engine kinda firing) with the clutch up. If you push it down the cranking speed decreases, so this makes me think the added resistance is helping it start. The car has a header, blown out mufflers and an exhaust leak. (Soon to be replaced)
Sorry for making this post so long but I wanted to try to give as much detail as possible.
This is a friends car that I'm fixing. When the car is cold, you have to crank and crank the engine, After probably the third or fourth long crank it shows some signs of life. It will slowly start, first a few pops, then it gets faster and faster until it actually starts. While its 'starting' you have to keep the starter engaged or it will die.
The car has a rebuilt engine (no compression probs), primary injectors don't leak, lots of fuel preasure. The BAC valve is blocked off, but the AWS solenoid is hooked to a switch so that once the engine starts it holds at 2k rpm.
Timing is bang on, tps is set, idle speed is set at about 850 to compensate for no BAC. All the vaccuum lines have been replaced and it has a new fuel filter.
There is a smell of fuel after cranking the engine for a while, I don't think that it is a flooding problem though, if I pull the EGI fuse and do the unflooding procedure it does nothing, there also used to be a fuel cutoff switch(now used for AWS) but I took it ouf because it didn't help at all.
There is spark at all the plugs. I did notice though that it was't a very blue spark.
Once it does start it takes a while before it runs on its own, even after the AWS kicks off, it seems to have a bit of a miss at idle.
Also, could a "too free flowing" exhaust not have enough back preasure for the engine to start? It seems that it spins quicker (engine kinda firing) with the clutch up. If you push it down the cranking speed decreases, so this makes me think the added resistance is helping it start. The car has a header, blown out mufflers and an exhaust leak. (Soon to be replaced)
Sorry for making this post so long but I wanted to try to give as much detail as possible.
09-17-01, 01:47 AM
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I'm pretty sure the engine will start with no exhaust including the manifold. so I doubt that's the problem. the dealer did that to rob's (i think him) car when he couldn't get it going. they pulled off the exhaust and it started. cats were too cloged.
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