6PI Activation
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Victoria
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
6PI Activation
So I finally got around to rigging up an air tight system for the 6PI, since I didn't have enough back pressure to open them up after modifying my exhaust. I went with coldfire's auxilary port activation write up "which is really good by the way" and tweaked it a little bit, here's what I used:
Air Brake Tubing x 1/4" x 3'
Brass Push-to-connect T fitting x 1/4" x 1
Brass Push-to connect fittings x 1/4" x 3
Hose Barb x 1/8" x 1
Brass Needle Valve x 1
Air Muffler x 1
Total Cost = $30
Pics to follow
Looks very clean
Air Brake Tubing x 1/4" x 3'
Brass Push-to-connect T fitting x 1/4" x 1
Brass Push-to connect fittings x 1/4" x 3
Hose Barb x 1/8" x 1
Brass Needle Valve x 1
Air Muffler x 1
Total Cost = $30
Pics to follow
Looks very clean
#2
Retired Moderator, RIP
iTrader: (142)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 0
Received 131 Likes
on
114 Posts
I'd be Really Interested in the Pics,Etc..as I actually Have Coldfire's original Setup sitting in my Drawer here,and never got around to installing it!
#4
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Victoria
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After playing around with the rmp range for bit. It seems that 1/4" hose and fittings is creating way to much pressure and opening up the ports to early. So I'm going to change everthing to 3/8" which will allow for 33% more air flow to bleed from the system. I'm also going to go with a dump valve rather than a needle valve. Will keep you posted.
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Victoria
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Air Pump 6PI Actuation (S4)
So here's a quick how to on what I did to get my auxilary ports working properly again. Basically your gonna need to aquire air brake parts for this project. The list is as follows:
(1) x Length Air Brake Tubing x 3/8" x 2-3'
(1) x Mini Ball Valve x 3/8" (Dump valve)
(1) x T Push-to-connect fitting x 3/8"
(3) x Male Tube Push-to-connect fittings x 3/8"
(1) x Hose Barb Adapter reduces to 3/16"
(1) x Air Muffler x 3/8" (if needed)
First remove the rear air pump hose and drill a hole smaller than the male tube fitting (clean out shavings) Next thread the male tube fitting into the hole. The fit should be air tight (test for leaks later using soap and water) if it isn't apply some sealant, re-attach the air pump hose. Then pull or cut off the split air hose and cap off the nipple to the split air pipe using a silicone cap. Next cut small lenghts of air brake tubing and connect from tube to T to tube fittings (See pics) Next attached the hose barb adapter to the male tube fitting and push it into the split air hose (apply lube if necessary) Finally run a length of air brake hose from the T fitting to a desired location for your dump valve. I tucked mine away up near the air filter (attached air muffler to dump valve if it's to noisy). Have a friend help you out with this next part. you'll want to adjust your air pressure using the ball valve. So get your buddy to rev up your car while you play around with the valve untill you get them opening fairly quickly (1-2 seconds) around 3500-4500rmp and closing fairly quickly (2-3 seconds) after releasing the throttle. It's not a precise method this way but it does do the trick. Well that's my little write up, good luck, hope this helps and I was clear enough in explaining things. I would have like to have used 1/4" all around for my set-up since it looked so sweet but this will do just fine.
Total Project Cost = $40
Labour = 1/2 hr
So here's a quick how to on what I did to get my auxilary ports working properly again. Basically your gonna need to aquire air brake parts for this project. The list is as follows:
(1) x Length Air Brake Tubing x 3/8" x 2-3'
(1) x Mini Ball Valve x 3/8" (Dump valve)
(1) x T Push-to-connect fitting x 3/8"
(3) x Male Tube Push-to-connect fittings x 3/8"
(1) x Hose Barb Adapter reduces to 3/16"
(1) x Air Muffler x 3/8" (if needed)
First remove the rear air pump hose and drill a hole smaller than the male tube fitting (clean out shavings) Next thread the male tube fitting into the hole. The fit should be air tight (test for leaks later using soap and water) if it isn't apply some sealant, re-attach the air pump hose. Then pull or cut off the split air hose and cap off the nipple to the split air pipe using a silicone cap. Next cut small lenghts of air brake tubing and connect from tube to T to tube fittings (See pics) Next attached the hose barb adapter to the male tube fitting and push it into the split air hose (apply lube if necessary) Finally run a length of air brake hose from the T fitting to a desired location for your dump valve. I tucked mine away up near the air filter (attached air muffler to dump valve if it's to noisy). Have a friend help you out with this next part. you'll want to adjust your air pressure using the ball valve. So get your buddy to rev up your car while you play around with the valve untill you get them opening fairly quickly (1-2 seconds) around 3500-4500rmp and closing fairly quickly (2-3 seconds) after releasing the throttle. It's not a precise method this way but it does do the trick. Well that's my little write up, good luck, hope this helps and I was clear enough in explaining things. I would have like to have used 1/4" all around for my set-up since it looked so sweet but this will do just fine.
Total Project Cost = $40
Labour = 1/2 hr
Last edited by crazyasu; 06-26-08 at 01:38 PM.
#6
Full Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: capital of Oregon!
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wow man... all i can say is wow!
well done... it looks really clean too! i like it. Only question for ya is where did you go to get these parts? I think i will be doing this later this weekend for sure! you should post up a vid of the system working as well!
also, i dont have any emmisions on my car. so i am thinking this should work as long as i put the air pump back on and just plug the one hose and adjust my dump valve accordingly...
thanks
well done... it looks really clean too! i like it. Only question for ya is where did you go to get these parts? I think i will be doing this later this weekend for sure! you should post up a vid of the system working as well!
also, i dont have any emmisions on my car. so i am thinking this should work as long as i put the air pump back on and just plug the one hose and adjust my dump valve accordingly...
thanks
Trending Topics
#10
Full Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: capital of Oregon!
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hey man... so i got it working fine except for one of the actuators does not engage at the same time as the other... my rear rotor opens at the right time but it takes almost all the way to red line to get the front one to move at all... you got any idea whats up??
#12
Full Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: capital of Oregon!
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my guess is that because the tubing to the front one is longer then the tubing to the back, it must mean that it is not able to build pressure as well. Therefore, if i take another T fitting and run two lines to each actuator themself right at the housing on the LIM that should eliminate my problem
no?
#14
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,791
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To get them to actuate at the same time, do what you can, a lot of times they will activate differently.
Should remove the LIM, remove the sleeves, clean them real good, put some 2 stroke oil on them (or any motor oil). Lubricate the sleeve with the AUX port rods in the LIM and make sure the actuators move freely. Equal length tubing to each actuator from one main tube will help as well.
Even at that though, you may still see them activate at slightly different times.
Should remove the LIM, remove the sleeves, clean them real good, put some 2 stroke oil on them (or any motor oil). Lubricate the sleeve with the AUX port rods in the LIM and make sure the actuators move freely. Equal length tubing to each actuator from one main tube will help as well.
Even at that though, you may still see them activate at slightly different times.
#15
My front one was slow and hanging up, had to clean it and i mean ever little bit of carbon/sludge in the engine AND inside the manifold around the shafts. works great now. good luck
#16
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Victoria
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Spray WD-40 or some type of penetrating oil on the linkage rod. Move it in and out with your finger 10-20 times, repeat process. Spray again and let soak for 24 hrs. Should do the trick
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post