6PI Activation
 

So I finally got around to rigging up an air tight system for the 6PI, since I didn't have enough back pressure to open them up after modifying my exhaust. I went with coldfire's auxilary port activation write up "which is really good by the way" and tweaked it a little bit, here's what I used:

Air Brake Tubing x 1/4" x 3'
Brass Push-to-connect T fitting x 1/4" x 1
Brass Push-to connect fittings x 1/4" x 3
Hose Barb x 1/8" x 1
Brass Needle Valve x 1
Air Muffler x 1

Total Cost = $30


Pics to follow
Looks very clean

I'd be Really Interested in the Pics,Etc..as I actually Have Coldfire's original Setup sitting in my Drawer here,and never got around to installing it!

please post up pics and a how to...

that would be worthy of the archive

After playing around with the rmp range for bit. It seems that 1/4" hose and fittings is creating way to much pressure and opening up the ports to early. So I'm going to change everthing to 3/8" which will allow for 33% more air flow to bleed from the system. I'm also going to go with a dump valve rather than a needle valve. Will keep you posted.

Air Pump 6PI Actuation (S4)

So here's a quick how to on what I did to get my auxilary ports working properly again. Basically your gonna need to aquire air brake parts for this project. The list is as follows:

(1) x Length Air Brake Tubing x 3/8" x 2-3'
(1) x Mini Ball Valve x 3/8" (Dump valve)
(1) x T Push-to-connect fitting x 3/8"
(3) x Male Tube Push-to-connect fittings x 3/8"
(1) x Hose Barb Adapter reduces to 3/16"
(1) x Air Muffler x 3/8" (if needed)

First remove the rear air pump hose and drill a hole smaller than the male tube fitting (clean out shavings) Next thread the male tube fitting into the hole. The fit should be air tight (test for leaks later using soap and water) if it isn't apply some sealant, re-attach the air pump hose. Then pull or cut off the split air hose and cap off the nipple to the split air pipe using a silicone cap. Next cut small lenghts of air brake tubing and connect from tube to T to tube fittings (See pics) Next attached the hose barb adapter to the male tube fitting and push it into the split air hose (apply lube if necessary) Finally run a length of air brake hose from the T fitting to a desired location for your dump valve. I tucked mine away up near the air filter (attached air muffler to dump valve if it's to noisy). Have a friend help you out with this next part. you'll want to adjust your air pressure using the ball valve. So get your buddy to rev up your car while you play around with the valve untill you get them opening fairly quickly (1-2 seconds) around 3500-4500rmp and closing fairly quickly (2-3 seconds) after releasing the throttle. It's not a precise method this way but it does do the trick. Well that's my little write up, good luck, hope this helps and I was clear enough in explaining things. I would have like to have used 1/4" all around for my set-up since it looked so sweet but this will do just fine.

Total Project Cost = $40
Labour = 1/2 hr

wow man... all i can say is wow!

well done... it looks really clean too! i like it. Only question for ya is where did you go to get these parts? I think i will be doing this later this weekend for sure! you should post up a vid of the system working as well!

also, i dont have any emmisions on my car. so i am thinking this should work as long as i put the air pump back on and just plug the one hose and adjust my dump valve accordingly...

thanks

Coast Industrial Parts Ltd.

They got some crazy S@#$ there

I'll try and post a vid up soon

just so you know man, i copied you and went ahead and did the same setup today... haha! thank got i dont have to snap tie them open now! haha

Cool, let me know if you have any questions

hey man... so i got it working fine except for one of the actuators does not engage at the same time as the other... my rear rotor opens at the right time but it takes almost all the way to red line to get the front one to move at all... you got any idea whats up??

Just buy an 89-91 ACV which has a port for the actuators already. Will look and function better.

well, seems as how i have all my emmisions removed i dont see that as an option..


my guess is that because the tubing to the front one is longer then the tubing to the back, it must mean that it is not able to build pressure as well. Therefore, if i take another T fitting and run two lines to each actuator themself right at the housing on the LIM that should eliminate my problem

no?

Sorry, I saw the S4 ACV still in place and figured you had emmisions still on the car. Atleast the airpump anyways.

To get them to actuate at the same time, do what you can, a lot of times they will activate differently.

Should remove the LIM, remove the sleeves, clean them real good, put some 2 stroke oil on them (or any motor oil). Lubricate the sleeve with the AUX port rods in the LIM and make sure the actuators move freely. Equal length tubing to each actuator from one main tube will help as well.

Even at that though, you may still see them activate at slightly different times.

My front one was slow and hanging up, had to clean it and i mean ever little bit of carbon/sludge in the engine AND inside the manifold around the shafts. works great now. good luck

Spray WD-40 or some type of penetrating oil on the linkage rod. Move it in and out with your finger 10-20 times, repeat process. Spray again and let soak for 24 hrs. Should do the trick