Is there a surefire way to tell if the 6-ports are working?

 

you can watch them as you bring the motor up in speed
thats bout the only way to surely know
you should be able to see the little shafts and daiphram move between 3500-4500rpms

 

Kool...Is there any performance issues if they are not opening>?

 

Yeah, just do a search on 6 ports. They've been talked about a million times. CJ

 

Got it...I should have done that to begin with...

 

They have to have a load on them to work. As in the car has to be moving down the road. Put some thick axle grease on the shafts and go for a ride. When you return the grease should be wiped from the shafts. That method is not sure fire though because you don't know if they opened at 3500rpm or 4500rpm/
Another way is to disconnect that vac looking hose from the nipple that is just aft of the rear actuator. Put a MITTYVAC or a source of low pressure(about 2-10psi) on the nipple and the actuators should actuate. Mine work real good and I can take a vac hose and blow like the dickens and they will move.
I'm talking about 86-88 cars here. I know less than nothing about the 89 on.\
Another thing is to take your thumb and push down on the actuator till it retreats. It should spring back.

 

Got it....I will try it after work today.

 

For those with series 5 NA's, the port actuators push to open, and only under high load.
I did some testing last weekend. I used pressure gage to check that they opened, then tee’d a tube inside and did a test drive to see when they opened.

 

86-88 will open without a load IF you have a factory exhaust(or one with about the same backpressure).Did one last week.

 

oh..its factory, I am trying to return it to stock condition..I dont have too many issues with mods... I may do them some day. I just want to enjoy the car as it was meant to be for a while.. I went back out and tried it again, the 6-port actuators arent moving..Period. I assume there isnt a vac line that runs to them to actuate them. Actually, I did read about a vac line...The only one I saw was running from the split air pipe, after the check valve. That it? If it was...There wasnt any pressure coming out of it...

 

Yes thats it. The hose from the split air pipe. It supplies pressure when the car is under load. That only happens while driving. Can't do it in the driveway reving the engine. I called it a vacuum hose but its really pressure. If you take that hose off where it connects to the pipe next to the rear actuator, and put low pressure air on it, the actuators rod will contract.
Oooops again. I just read what SixRotors said. Very hard to go against what he says ever. But I've never seen the actuators retract with a stock exaust system. And its not from trying. Wife's car is as stock as it gets. Does not retract on hers and when mine was stock it wouldn't either. What can I say. A part of me wants to write that what he says just ain't so, but he's seen more cars than I have.
At least do put pressure on the pipe and see if the actuators retract or not.

 

My guess is that the actuators arent actuating (poetic...isnt it?) because once I got the car running, and put the exhaust back in, I didnt put the gaskets in. So consequently my exhaust leaks like a sieve. Probably experiencing a severe lack of backpressure. hmmm....Could also be why I am running rich? Who knows... On another note, same subject, what do you prefer? Fully functioning 6-ports or do you tie yours open? Seems like there are 2 schools of thought here. I am not trying to turn my 7 into a race car, but I am interested in a little performance on the top end.

Rat

 

Hailers leaves his airpump and acv and auxillary actuators in place and functioning. But with the exception of maybe a week for emissions insp, uses a Mazdatrix dual exaust system and a jury rigg for actuating the aux ports. Wife's car is stock and that car gives me no heartburn atall. Others have their way, I have mine. You'll get a lot of different, and passionate opinions on that subject.
Sometime today you NEED to supply an air source to the feed pipe to see if they are functioning. If they are not, you'll have a couple of more things on your list to do.
Personaly I think your car went to the dogs. A bad cat will give you an exaust that will burn your eyes, just like not having one at all. I'm just guessing. I'm not on the spot looking at it. Could be all wet.

 

Well, I am currently tied up at work, so I cant go put pressure to them right now..But I will after work. I am not too sure what went to the dogs means, but the car is in great shape!!, just having some exhaust/emissions problems. I am gonna get the cat replaced hopefully soon. Its not like I am trying to get around it. I am just really dying to drive the car! And money for the aftermarket CAT is a few weeks away. I am going back to the emissions station today, with the split air trick Six Rotors mentioned, and some other devious little tricks. If it fails, its parked till I can get a new CAT. My thinking was, that if the 6-ports were tied open (for emissions only) they would lean the mix a little, and help with HCs.. Then I can start doing some real road testing/troubleshooting of the 6-port system.

Rat

 

Apology, I can't type. Where it said car, it should be *cat*. I'm sure its a good car.

 

Oh thats okay, I was just messin with ya anyways! I see the pun though.

 

You might need a catalytic converter and this is a cheap site: http://www.discountconverter.com/Default.htm I bought one a couple of years ago for the car I rebuilt for the wife and that converter has gotten me through a couple of years service and through emissions with flying colors. I don't consider it *cheap* as in *a piece of junque*, but cheap as in low cost but good performance. It is a bolt on. I loathe welded on catalytic converters with some passion.
EDIT: Try this, http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/g...1308/rx-7.html

 

That second link was some GREAT reading!! looks like this guy just jammed his 6-port hose into the ACV vent hose...How crazy! There is alot of ingenuity when it comes to avoiding making the 6-ports work as advertised.......


Rat.

Thanks for the links...!

 

Well I'm here to say SixRotors is right again. I got home and started the wifes car up and rev'd the beegees out of it, and sure enough the actuators closed. Unknown rpm, can't be in two places. I've driven her car with a spare lower manifold in the front seat with a tee to the source of pressure for the one on the engine and I know its fully open by 4000. So I started my car that has the emission cat and mufflers on it and sure as a frog is waterproof the actuators closed. I have several other aux port links I'll try to tie to this thread in the next hour. Bye.
http://home.earthlink.net/~burntoast/6port.html
http://home.rmci.net/panther/6PortSolution.htm
Just a good all around site: http://home.rmci.net/panther/6PortSolution.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/6porttest.htm
http://home.rmci.net/panther/ecu_codes.htm
This guy has good pictures of engine parts and links: http://home.earthlink.net/~burntoast/
This one, if you can find ARTICLES, is handy. Finding ARTICLES takes a minute or so: http://www.teamfc3s.org/
Another can't do without: http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/demystifying.html
RXSTR has good electrical grounding how to and more: http://ourworld-top.cs.com/flrxster/index.html Thats enough of this game. See ya.

 

My guess is since my exhaust is leaking fairly badly, I am not getting the 1.5 -2.1 psi required to open HOWEVER, it stands to reason that they may never open. So I am heading out to get some vac T-fittings since I have a vac/pressure gauge. Then I am getting some clean vac line, and I am gonna blow! (save the jokes for detention.....) I can muster about 2.5 PSI before my cheeks feel like they are gonna burst. I may try to find another source of vacuum (scuse me I meant PRESSURE) cause I dont have a mityvac or anything like that... On another note. I just found out that the last engine in this car smoked BADLY for about a year before it was replaced...Could be a good reason the CAT is toasted???? Hmmm.....

Rat

 

I don't think pouring oil on the catalyist bed could do any good. Probably drove the nail in the coffin. No telling what the previous owner did to it.

 

how 'bout hooking them up so that they are RPM activated?? it does not take much, when I get my exhaust that what im going to do.

 

I have an 88 TII with the converter removed running on DP and MP. If anything it made the car stronger in pulling from 80mph to 100. Do the actuators work on backpressure with the TIIs as well. If that is the case mine should be stuck right now. Oh yeah I have the Airpump removed as well.

thanks

 

Turbos do not have the auxillary actuators, so you're home free.

 

sweet!