Ok I am days away from the first test drive with the Swap...

Here is what the car has and the questions will follow...

S4 N/A block
S5 T2 manifolds
S4 T2 TB
S5 turbo/wastegate
Rb 2.5 inch DP
S5 front cover
dual alt pulleys
T2 fuel pump
Hks BOV
Custom 3" intake piping w/ filter
T2 secondaries

Now for the questions:

Should I remove the OEM MAF and put in the T2 MAF? What are the advantages?
(this is a vert so it has the 338 ECU)

I also am considering putting in the T2 Boost sensor.. Any thoughts?

Let me know if there is anything I am missing before I try to drive this thing down the road.. I am considering a manual boost controller to keep it at 8psi or under....

 

from reading aaron's threads and talking to 88n/a....they both used the n/a maf and they both didnt have any hiccups.

 

Boost controllers cannot lower boost past what the wastegate will naturally achieve.

Just using TII secondaries will not be enough fuel.

 

OK what about this.. I have a T2 harness that I modified/rewired to accept the S5 t2 injectors.. Should I just run the Modified T2 harness with the S4 Vert ecu?? or will I need to go ahead and use the T2 ecu too? I have all the parts it's just a matter of what combo of parts to use...

 

At a bare minimum i would suggest the T2 ECU with the corrisponding sensors that you will need to run the ECU. I would also suggest a bare minimum of 4X 550cc's, or better yet 550pr, 680sc.

 

Whoo... I am really nervous about this. I daily this car. I have slotted a two weekends to complete the job but am hoping I do not blow this thing up.

 

I plan on using 55cc pri, 720cc sec for my 6pi-T build. Better safe than sorry I say.

 

IMO run the following

T2 ECU
all 550's
T2 MAF(n/a MAF will cause it to run lean on a turboed engine with 550's)
T2 pressure sensor(iirc the n/a boost sensor does not read positive manifold pressure)

 

The TII ECU is of course better, but I and others were fine with the NA ECU. If you go to the TII ECU, you need the TII pressure sensor and AFM as well...

You definitly need more fuel though. 550CC secondaries are not enough for 8 PSI of boost.

Of course upgrading the primaries means that you need some form of fuel control like an S-AFC, but it's hard to justify buying a $200 S-AFC when a Megasquirt is $140...

 

SAFC is easy to use though, takes 30 mins to install and another 30 to tune, MS would take several days to do the same and takes technical knowledge of how injection systems work and how to tune them.

won't the high compression rotors result in boost creep though? just something that popped into my head.

 

Not necessarily... I have NA rotors in my T2, and it will only hit 6psi with the boost controller off... drops off to below 2psi by 6,000 rpm...

But then again I have a ported 4 port motor.

 

below 2psi by 6k? you have a boost leak then or a severely ported wastegate and a sticking wastegate actuator. the job of the wastegate is to limit boost not pull it below the preset spring value which is 5.5psi for S4 and 7.5?psi for S5.

did you port your wastegate?

 

35th hundred post... WOW! Imagine if my old account wasn't hacked and whatnot.. I started posting here back in 1999 when it was a different deal all together...

I am going to attempt to use all T2 items I guess.. Can I use an N/A TB on the t2 manifolds though?

 

it will bolt up, but your throttle cam will rotate the wrong way to use a N/A cable.

 

Yah, tell me about it. Tested for leaks, there's none. Stock S5 wastegate.

With the boost controller working, I hit 10 psi, but it will drop to below 5 by 5,000rpm... So... with the streetport and the higher compression rotors, I may be outflowing the turbo... maybe my exhaust is restricting it... don't know for sure.

This same turbo ran 10psi and held 8 almost to redline before the rebuild.


Trust me, I checked everything I could possibly think of! lol

Especially since the haltech is set to turn on the secondaries at 2psi, so I was having my secondaries shut off on the dyno at just before 6,000rpm, causing a SEVERE lean condition... luckily at that point it was pretty much NA. :P

 

not sure what you mean by outflow, a few PSI drop in some cases is acceptable but no more than a few. your setup has a problem somewhere you just need to find where.

 

That big of a drop in turbo efficiency at higher RPM..I wouldn't try calling it anything to do with the engine. The turbo is SHOTTTT.