6 port turbo kit
#6
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I am not aware of any currently-produced kit. Most people piece together their own kit, which typically includes a turbo (the most common are a 60-1, TS04, T04E "60", or GT35R), wastegate, manifold, front-mount intercooler, downpipe, water and oil lines and fittings, downpipe (or an entire exhaust system), cone air filter and custom air box, standalone EMS, upgraded fuel pump and injectors, Aeromotive or SX fuel pressure regulator, boost gauge, Turbo II transmission, starter, flywheel, driveshaft, differential, and halfshafts. Optional mods are lower-compression rotors, engine rebuild, porting and doweling. Plan on spending about $10,000.
If you don't want to spend a lot of time and/or money, then the cheapest and easiest way to go turbo is to sell your car and buy a Turbo II car.
If you don't want to spend a lot of time and/or money, then the cheapest and easiest way to go turbo is to sell your car and buy a Turbo II car.
#7
Bridge Burner.
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I am not aware of any currently-produced kit. Most people piece together their own kit, which typically includes a turbo (the most common are a 60-1, TS04, T04E "60", or GT35R), wastegate, manifold, front-mount intercooler, downpipe, water and oil lines and fittings, downpipe (or an entire exhaust system), cone air filter and custom air box, standalone EMS, upgraded fuel pump and injectors, Aeromotive or SX fuel pressure regulator, boost gauge, Turbo II transmission, starter, flywheel, driveshaft, differential, and halfshafts. Optional mods are lower-compression rotors, engine rebuild, porting and doweling. Plan on spending about $10,000.
If you don't want to spend a lot of time and/or money, then the cheapest and easiest way to go turbo is to sell your car and buy a Turbo II car.
If you don't want to spend a lot of time and/or money, then the cheapest and easiest way to go turbo is to sell your car and buy a Turbo II car.
That being said, Evil Aviator described the RIGHT way to do it hahaha. Do/get everything he said for a proper set-up. But if you plan on blowing up the motor/tranny in a month, expect to spend about $2-3k
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#8
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Yes, if he wants to keep it below 200bhp then he could forego the TII drivetrain, and ghetto-rig the stock EMS and air box. However, the OP did not state his budget, performance goals, tools, or skill set, so I listed the more common path to the conversion.
#9
Engine, Not Motor
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1. There is a factory turbo RX-7, the TII.
2. Most owners are way too cheap to afford the cost of a commercially produced turbo kit.
I have again and again looked at bringing one to the market but always, I come to the conclusion that there are precious few people who would be willing to pay the $4500 for a 300HP bolt on NA-turbo kit. It's important to remember that such a kit touches every system of the car and if comercially produced and sold, must be reliable and as close to bolt-on as possible.
$4500 isn't even really that expensive. Look up some of the prices for the bolt on supercharger kits for the popular new muscle cars and prepare for some sticker shock.
Edelbrock E-Force Supercharger Kit For 2010-2012 Camaro - JEGS
That all said, if you use the TII lower intake manifold, then you can use any turbo kit or parts designed for the TII.
Porting The 4 Port Turbo II Lower Intake To Fit The 6 Port NA Block
#14
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BNR Supercars - Bryan Nickell's Rotary Supercars - Mazda RX-7 2nd Generation (1987-1991)
Rtek7 ECU Upgrade Detailed Information
RX-7 Store - Walbro Fuel Pump
#15
Sharp Claws
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all it really takes is a modified turbo lower intake and a drilled front cover for the turbo oil drain.
it's far too difficult to bother with the 6 port intake system, the actual simplest way is to just weld and port match the turbo lower to fit the 6 port block and then just transfer all the turbo parts to the n/a engine. most of the parts can be found for about $500 off a turbo engine shell, a welding shop would probably charge about $100-200 to modify the lower manifold.
it's far too difficult to bother with the 6 port intake system, the actual simplest way is to just weld and port match the turbo lower to fit the 6 port block and then just transfer all the turbo parts to the n/a engine. most of the parts can be found for about $500 off a turbo engine shell, a welding shop would probably charge about $100-200 to modify the lower manifold.
#16
Yes, with a Turbo II you can get an Rtek chip, BNR turbo upgrade, Walbro 255 fuel pump, and appropriate fuel injectors. Optional components are a front-mount intercooler, upgraded radiator, and aftermarket exhaust. No tuning is required for these bolt-on mods, and they do not require a great deal of mechanical skill or expensive tools to install them.
BNR Supercars - Bryan Nickell's Rotary Supercars - Mazda RX-7 2nd Generation (1987-1991)
Rtek7 ECU Upgrade Detailed Information
RX-7 Store - Walbro Fuel Pump
BNR Supercars - Bryan Nickell's Rotary Supercars - Mazda RX-7 2nd Generation (1987-1991)
Rtek7 ECU Upgrade Detailed Information
RX-7 Store - Walbro Fuel Pump
#17
#18
Spinning Dorito
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Yet another project convertible followed me home on Friday and it had this bolted on to it:
I've been trying to identify what I have. From the bit of info I can find, all signs point to it.
Air pump is still in place, turbo fits under the manifold, radiator for the air to water is up at the front and it's got the metal hockey puck looking fuel pressure regulator.
#19
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I know a thing or two about finance. Please to not waste money on unnecessary sports car accessories when you are a broke college student. Rather, wait until you are established in a good job, have paid off your college loans, and are funding your retirement through an IRA and/or 401(k).
#21
Spinning Dorito
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It certainly does. I also noticed that the Fuel Pressure Regulator actually says Cartech on it. Although, it's possible somebody sourced one of those to go with some other kit.
#22
I know a thing or two about finance. Please to not waste money on unnecessary sports car accessories when you are a broke college student. Rather, wait until you are established in a good job, have paid off your college loans, and are funding your retirement through an IRA and/or 401(k).
#23
Theoretical Tinkerer
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I swear I'm not trying to thread-jack, but, speaking of the Cartech kit, would that be one of these?
Yet another project convertible followed me home on Friday and it had this bolted on to it:
I've been trying to identify what I have. From the bit of info I can find, all signs point to it.
Air pump is still in place, turbo fits under the manifold, radiator for the air to water is up at the front and it's got the metal hockey puck looking fuel pressure regulator.
Yet another project convertible followed me home on Friday and it had this bolted on to it:
I've been trying to identify what I have. From the bit of info I can find, all signs point to it.
Air pump is still in place, turbo fits under the manifold, radiator for the air to water is up at the front and it's got the metal hockey puck looking fuel pressure regulator.
#24
Spinning Dorito
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Anyway, I'll stop thread jacking and back to the original question.
#25
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If you spend $1,000 on your car, it is gone. If you rather put that $1,000 into an investment that averages 7% APR, it would grow into about $15,000 40 years from now. In a similar example, if you spend $500/month on new car payments and keep replacing your car with a new one, in 40 years you will have a pretty good used car. Were you to put that same amount of money into a 7% APR investment, you would have over $1.2 million dollars after 40 years, and it would generate an average of nearly $87,000 per year for the rest of your life.
In the near term, you should watch your spending because it is typical of new college grads to spend an unexpectedly large amount of money obtaining a job in their new career. Most college students should have a stash of $8,000 to $12,000 to cover the costs of moving, new clothes/uniforms, office equipment/tools, housing and utility deposits, and maybe even additional training costs, depending on the situation. Additionally, those who have had their parents pay for their living expenses will have a rude awakening to how much the "little things" cost. These costs kick in immediately upon graduation if you are not still living at home, regardless of whether you have found a job yet.