I was wondering if you could leave sleeves in( I plan on getting pineapple sleeves) and remove the actuator rods. The rods are a big restriction but I want to have those sleeves in there. Has anybody ever done this?

Thanks guys

 

Not sure if Rob has them pre-made or made to order anymore, but when I was getting my set, I had to hammer in the cross pins myself. So if yours come with them installed, then it's just as easy to knock'em out(it's tapered so it only goes in & out one way).
I might remove the rods later on so my plan is to notch the sleeve in there with a chisel just as you would to a wheel bearing nut. I'm sure there are other ways to hold it in place but it's the best I can think of at the moment.

 

just remove the sleeves all to gether and your motor will breath as much air as a large street port would..
Dave

 

Pineapple sleeves are much better than no sleeves at all. If your not getting PA sleeves then you should just leave them out. To hold the PA's in place the best thing would be to use Cylinder sleeve locktite which is used to hold the cylinder sleeves in alumiunum blocks on piston engines.

 

Thanks guys.

 

I really cut my sleeves up, opened them up quite a bit. knife-edged the edge too. I also cut the rods off, filled the sleeves with a nice contour, (made of epoxy) then reinserted them, locked into place with epoxy.

And, for the record- it does NOT make the engine breathe like a large street port!!

Here's a pic of what I did... I cut on the red lines.

 

talk to peejay on that one.. his the one who inlightened me..
Dave

 

Thanks Bambam for the insight. Did you notice any gain from the sleeves. I mean I know they add power but just wanted to know if it was noticeable. Or did you put those in like everybody else while you were porting your intake?

 

I had originally radiused my sleeves with epoxy, glued them in place (open duh!), and removed the actuator rods from the airstream as well as that cross bar in the sleeve itself. This was on a non ported motor. The top end was noticeably increased. It was better above 4000 rpm all the way to redline. Lousy below this point though (just don't drive there!). The actuator rods are such a big restriction and add so much turbulence that on a flowbench a radiused sleeve only nets 1% more airflow than a nonradiused sleeve. Once the rods are removed then the benefits of the radiused sleeves really start to get noticable. I replaced that engine with a custom twin turbo T-II block based project and no longer have the old 6 port. However, I do have a similar setup in my streetported GSL-SE 6 port motor and it is very nice on the top end.

 

I have mine the same as Bambam7. Its the best you can do. As far as power. I didnt notice anything except sound. Tell you the truth I didnt notice anything ive done to my car even the exaust was barely noticable. But im now making 158rwp non street port and still have a ways to go. and bambam7 has around 165-175 so take it from us , IT HELPS

 

I was thinking about trying something like this, however here in northern Virginia, we have emmisions laws to cope with. Would always-open 6-ports cause my car to fail emmissions tests? My last test report says it was tested at 1796 RPM and 2016 RPM, so they are obviously tested while the 6-ports are (supposed to be) closed. Thoughts?

 

Hehhe... I've got waayy more that 175 hp now!
Damn turbo, and all of it's "aceleration". Tools of the devil....