2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

6 PI Sleeves Temporarily Removed: Need to fix siezed actuator rods.

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Old Apr 5, 2004 | 06:54 PM
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cbrinega's Avatar
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6 PI Sleeves Temporarily Removed: Need to fix siezed actuator rods.

Last week I removed the intake manifolds to clean and fix the 6 Port Induction (PI) system. I made use of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) and two posts in the archive here.

The rotating actuator rods that pass through the lower intake manifold were siezed. Everything else was fine (execpt for lots of gunk inside the 6 PI sleeves - see the attached picture).

I ended up shearing off the lever arm (external crank handle) that the actuators attach to, and I was not able to free the actuator rods. I needed to run the car, so I put it back together without the sleeves. Here are my impressions:


4k RPMs and up have a nice power increase (easy to chirp the tires going into second gear). (Sorry, I've never dynoed my car.)

Low end torque has suffered a noticeable amount under 3k.

I fixed some vacuum leaks, and now my car idles much better.


Overall I am okay with temporarily having the sleeves removed, but I really want them to be working as they should. I don't like the loss of low end for around town driving.

Does anyone have a working series 5 lower intake manifold for sale or have any suggestions for fixing the problem. I could remove the rods by punching them out...
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Old Apr 5, 2004 | 07:00 PM
  #2  
cbrinega's Avatar
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still love the FC
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FYI: My Mods.

Bonez High Flo Cat
GTUs Diff (4.3 & LSD)
Bonez Air Intake

Bonez Brake Pads
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Slotted & Drilled Brake Rotors
ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid

Interior Mostly Resotored
New Stock Wheels
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Old Apr 5, 2004 | 08:53 PM
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Go to your dealership and get them to pull up the part number, get 'em to show you the the parts look up screen or take the manifold with you, you can get the actuator rods AND the brass bushing that it sits in, and i think there may be some spacers as well..

you will have to use a press or a hammer and a deep socket (1/4 inch drive ones work best) the same size as the brass bushing to get it out..

I had to pound the hell out of the bushings to get 'em out, now I have a press, but don't have a car with 6-ports!!!!

get ready to **** your pants... those things aint cheap!!!
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Old Apr 6, 2004 | 07:34 AM
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Mine was like this too, i just wen to the junk yard and got a new LIM for like 20 bux, works great, just test it before you pull it..
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Old Apr 6, 2004 | 08:37 AM
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Since the LIM is not really a wear part, a used (S5) one will work well.
You've already done the hard part (cleaning the LIM gasket material)
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Old Apr 6, 2004 | 08:44 AM
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I took mine out completely and didnt notice a significant loss in low end power.
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Old Apr 6, 2004 | 09:50 AM
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Thanks for the replys. I'm looking around for a used LIM right now. I found one in the For Sale section on this site.

I pretty much have to go with used parts. I don't want to invest tons of money in this car if I can avoid it. I'm already debating selling it and getting an RX-8 to replace my truck and car (daydreams about a new car with a warranty and no rust...).

As for the low end torque, I do notice it. One example is that in 5th gear at around 3k RPMs I used to be able to press the gas a little and gradually increase my speed. Now I have to floor it to get even the slightest acceleration.
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Old Apr 6, 2004 | 09:54 AM
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I did some low end a 3rd gear pulls from 1500 to 3500 rpm. The low end time was more than 1 second faster with the ports closed.
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Old Apr 6, 2004 | 11:57 AM
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i had one of my rods siezed in my intake manifold. i ended up bending it trying to loosen it and eventually had to replace it.

it is a part mazda sells, special order only though. i would bring the factory manual (or print out the page the part is on) and take that with you to the dealer. if i remember correctly, the rods are different for the right and left side.

j.ho
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