I thought you have no cats?

I guess something is just creating enough back pressure. But try the grease thing. Maybe your sleaves are stuck closed.

 

My first gen se opens the aux ports in neutral, although my S4 2nd gen does not. Also I now think that my sleeves are not opening inside the ports even though the piston moves freely. I have done the greese trick and also used a small zip tie for the same check. So even though you aux port plunger on the outside moves freely does not mean they open all the way. Also I think if the ports are working properly they should open in neutral just like my first gen se. Some correct me if that is wrong.

 

i do have cats.....i can move them with my fingers, could they still be stuck?

 

9 times out of 10, you WONT see your aux ports actuate when you are in neutral.. Not enough backpressure.

 

My aux ports on my first gen open in neutral. Although my 2nd gen S4 does not. I found that my plungers on my 2nd gen are free moving, I can move them with my fingers with ease. When I tried the greese tackic I found that they actual don't open, I have also tried a small zip tie too. I think the ports will open in neutral if they are working correctly.

 

No, probably not. But sitting there revving the car in neutral isnt going to become anymore productive then before.

Ensure your vac hose to the actuators is intact, put some grease on the rods, and open it up.

And as previously stated, stuck 6-ports DO NOT cause the 3800 RPM hesitation.

Jarrett

 

Sorry for the double post. When I just looked back at this thread it did not have the first on there, so I thought it didn't go through.

 

what kind of grease should i use to put on the rod?

 

Axle grease...

 

ok thanx, ill try that tomorrow...ill also buy a vacuum pump and see how that works out

 

Pressure, not vacuum. You know that....but just in case.

 

That sounds about right then. I have a RB header, bonez cat (which I will replace with a RB Presilencer) and stock exhaust the rest of the way back. Maybe the stock muffles adds a greater amount of bak pressure. My 2nd gen has RB header, RB Presilencer and a CS single side out cat back (very very free flowing). That might be why I see my ports open in neutral on my first gen se and not on my 2nd gen. I am pulling my aux orts apart soon enough to clean them and install PineApple sleeves, I will probably port the manifold at that time. Suggest you do the same (jsnow82).

 

what should i clean it with? is there a template for porting the manifold? im guessing you are talking about the intake manifold.

 

and the aux port sleeves. A good carbon cleaner will do or I have heard that people have good resualts with soaking them in gas. You should able to find the cleaner at an auto parts store.

 

oh a good wire bush could help those tuff spots

 

yeah carb cleaner will do just finebut buy a brush for it if you don't have one already. make sure to clean the places they go in the block aswell

 

I'm in the middle of this right now. The new intake manifold gasket makes a good template for porting of the lower intake manifold ports. I personally am only doing the middle two ports. There is so much crap in the outer 2 ports with the rods and sleeves and injectors, it seems pointless.

I found carb cleaner to be quite effective getting the crap off the sleeves and the ports in the block. I also pulled the rods from the intake manifold. There are 2 seals there that you may want to replace. Good place fot a intake leak to start.

It is a good time to clean the injectors while they are out...

I have thought one way of cleaning the sleeves without disassembling the whole mess would be to pull the rods out of the lower intake manifold then spray car cleaner through there on to the sleeves. Put the rods in and rotate it back and forth....repeat as necessary..

Mine is already apart...Maybe I'll try it on my brothers Rx-7

 

when cleaning the actuators, do you have to take them apart b/c i noticed a screw on the bottom part of it. are you suppose to take them apart to clean them?

 

I did not take them apart. I think that just holds the spring on the inside of the actuator. I just cleaned the manifold and the sleeves and rods.