Ok guys so as it says in my signature i'm doing a "rebuild" for my engine (although most of the parts are brand new) and this is what i'm wondering.

On my current engine there is no air pump (you know, the one right above the exhaust manifold) and apparently my aux ports are wired open, according to the guys down at mazdatrix. Now i'm under the impression that in order for the aux ports to properly function, you need to have that air pump, unless of course i'm mistaken. Anyway back to my question: When I drop the new engine in there, will i have to wire the ports on that motor open?

Before i get bashed for this let me tell you why this is. The guy who owned the car before me wired them open and took off the pump. I know it craps up your low end and does nothing for your high end BUT I DIDNT DO IT!!! What i'm trying to say is, i'm not going to go out and buy the air pump and all the little wires and doo-dads that go with it just to make aux ports work unless i absolutely have to.

Once again i'm probably totally wrong about everything here but thanks for the help guys.

 

just take them out...or like you wrote go and get all doo dads to make it work again...Your call you choice...

 

Reinstall the air pump. Not only are you losing a lot of low end due to the wired ports, but your top end is suffering because your VDI is not working.

 

Do not leave them that way. Do not defeat the 6PI system or take any more parts out!

Why do people say to take them out?

Don't do it. These engines already lack low RPM power, don't make it worse.

What year car is it? 86-88 6PI system works off exhaust back pressure, 89-91 uses air pump air pressure. I could check your info, but car info should always be posted, even better, included in sig.

You can probably find an air pump at a junkyard (assuming you have an 89-91 car and need one) or get it cheap through the list (check your region for sale or post a WTB ad).

 

There's three schools of thought on this.

1) Wire open a none-working 6PI system to regain the performance of the stock top end

2) Alter or restore the stock system to activate either through the air pump or through the stock location (if S4 via split air tube, S5 via Electro-Pnumatic--I can't remember the S5 activation)

3) Switch to a completely electric activation--which I am currently trying to iron out the bugs on.

 

there you go problem solved...

 

OMFG PFSANTOS.... I already EXPLAINED that i was not the one who took all the **** off of the car. I was asking if i had to leave the ports wired open if i dont have an air pump. If you were smart, you would have looked at my post and noticed that i was talking about an AIR PUMP the whole damn time.

I hate people that bash on others when they dont even understand anything that was posted....

Thank you Aaron, i do believe that i'll get the airpump, belts and all the wires and stuff.

Laxrotor, congrats on the fully electronic thing and i'll keep myself posted on how that works out.

THANKS GUYS

 

Eva001Ikari: "Ok guys so as it says in my signature i'm doing a "rebuild" for my engine (although most of the parts are brand new) and this is what i'm wondering.

On my current engine there is no air pump (you know, the one right above the exhaust manifold) and apparently my aux ports are wired open, according to the guys down at mazdatrix. Now i'm under the impression that in order for the aux ports to properly function, you need to have that air pump, unless of course i'm mistaken. Anyway back to my question: When I drop the new engine in there, will i have to wire the ports on that motor open?

Before i get bashed for this let me tell you why this is. The guy who owned the car before me wired them open and took off the pump. I know it craps up your low end and does nothing for your high end BUT I DIDNT DO IT!!! What i'm trying to say is, i'm not going to go out and buy the air pump and all the little wires and doo-dads that go with it just to make aux ports work unless i absolutely have to.

Once again i'm probably totally wrong about everything here but thanks for the help guys."

teddyrx2:
just take them out...or like you wrote go and get all doo dads to make it work again...Your call you choice...

----

Eva**** - I read your post thoroughly the first time, and noted (before my first post) you didn't do the half assed mod. of removing the air pump and wiring the auxiliary ports open. So my post wasn't bashing you, it was criticizing the original owner. OK?

Also, regarding the system, I was simply saying not to leave the ports wired open, which was one of the options suggested by teddy***, so my remark "why do people say to take them out" wasn't for you (OP).

Aaron also has a good point - your VDI (variable dynamic intake) is also disabled, so you're losing a lot of power.

All you need is the air pump back (unless you want to get into another source for air pressure - like an electric air pump), make sure the solenoids are still there and hooked up (most likely if the PO just removed the air pump), and you should be done. The ECU (I failed to notice originally your sig. says '91) triggers the solenoids to open air pump pressure to the VDI and 6PI actuators.

Also, you want to check if the rods and auxiliary valves that the actuators move haven't seized up due to non-use.

 

Rotary resurrection has a nice write up on electronic 6 port in his tech section.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...elec6port.html

 

Wrong type of electric activation. That would be more along the lines of electric pnumatic and would not rid the Linear Actuators or the ACV.

My view of electric activation would be the activation of the 6PI system directly with an electric signal to either solenoids or stepper motors. No vacuum, no pressure activation.

 

Ok guys so i went down to mazdatrix on friday to buy my apex seals and talked to Dave about VDI and the airpump and stuff. He showed me an engine that he modded the headers on....Meaning he put a small tube on the headers by modding a little port directly onto the headers. He didnt explain to me exactly how it worked but my guess would be that it works similar to how the 86-88's work with the backpressure thing. He said its like a 70 dollar mod instead of putting the airpump and solenoids and wires and **** back on.

Thanks for all the input guys.

 

I built my electronic 6PI system for like $20. You have an S5, and it is very easy to make your system work. You need a 12vdc air pump (modded to pump only a few psi, or a bleeder valve), or lumbar air pump, or electronic smog pump, a relay, some vac line and T's, and some speaker wire. There are a few really good writeups on this subject. Rotary Resurrection helped me out with mine, and has a good writetup on his site. There are several options that are better than the exhaust activation method.

 

Want to give a quick once over on what you did? I am working on a solenoid version because using an air pump just isnt reliable.

Brian

 

Hey Brian,
I haven't done it yet... but it's on my list of things to do at the moment. I'll dig up the thread I started around the same time as this one. Right now I'm looking at the specific solenoids I'd need for the application (no sense in wasting money).
Trying to find solenoids that could withstand high temperatures of an exhuast or turbo manifold is my main consideration. This means that the solenoid will have to be a sealed extended life unit (50 million+ activation cycles) continous duty (and for temperature ratings I've only found units that can withstand 266F--not quite hot enough so a heatshield might be necessary).

I've exchanged some information with stevej88na's regarding his solenoid VDI activation and he's offered me some advice. I'm still trying to expand upon it but I keep getting stuck on this next part:

How much force does it take to activate the 6PI system? Not pressure, but force. This will dicatate which solenoid I should purchase. I'd also need to look at travel of the rod. Supposedly it's only a .5" travel is needed to attach it to the 6PI system.

Beyond those questions being worked out there's a few things still holding me back, namely cash flow. I just purchased alot of suspension components and need to get them installed and payed off prior to me purchasing anything for the E6PI system. At the very latest I should start work on it just prior to summer vacation. If everything goes as planned, I should actually be able to order them just after spring break (march 1st).

The other thread I was talking about:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/6pi-solenoid-activation-729750/