2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

5th and 6th port fix

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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 12:41 AM
  #1  
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5th and 6th port fix

ok so i dynoed my car recently and it did 120 hp at 6800 and 120 torque at 4400 rpm. its a 1988 convertible with intake and exhaust. and i was hoping to get more hp. i was told that my 5th and six ports werent opening because the air pump was removed. i have done my research on the alternative fixes. but i cant afford to do either one of them at the moment. now my question is should i leave my ports closed like they are now? or should i try and have them stay open all the time. and if so what method should i use to keep them open. i will post some pics tomorrow so you guys can get a better idea. thanks in advance =)
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 12:50 AM
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Search. There are ONE MILLION threads written on ports.

Your 6 ports opening has nothing to do with your airpump. That is only on the 89-91's.

What exhaust do you have? That's probably the problem. The best solution is to get them working again...otherwise, wire them open.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 10:30 AM
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i have a racing sport exhaust but no headers. so what makes them open?
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 10:34 AM
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back pressure from the exhaust
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 10:40 AM
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I personally am going to be doing this:

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...elec6port.html
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 10:50 AM
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Just tie them open LOL.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 11:15 AM
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@ pipnorcali
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youll probably hit 130ish with the ports working
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by SDrotary-FC
youll probably hit 130ish with the ports working
That all? i have heard that the differce is more like 25hp working to not.

Plus with his peak tourqe being so low in the power band (right about when the ports should open) he should get a pretty big boost from them working.

Rotaries usually have a climbing tourqe courve until almost redline. So his peak tourqe should be a lot high in the power band.

Do you happen ot have a print out of the dyno run?
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 12:31 PM
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hey guys, i got a 88 gtu with the ports not working... but i pulled pretty good. well i lost to my buddies integra with b18/b18tranny(other friends say its a short ratio tranny, good for drag...iono)... but pulled pretty good with my 2.5 RS buddy, but he has bogging issues so its not a finalized race. and i kept up with a heat soaked turbo 2 :P about one car or maybe one car in a half. i would of lost in the long run but i did good. i dont know if they are closed or opened.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 12:33 PM
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Well if you don't know if they are closed or open, how do you know they are not working?
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 12:34 PM
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yea i have the sheet ill scan it later today. so i should just tie them open? any cons to doing this method?
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 12:42 PM
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Please do scan that sheet in.

Tieing them open will make you lose power down low. The AUX ports are much like a Vtec for rataries.

That link i posted above is really cheap and would make them work right, you could alos wire that pump up to a switch in the car and turn them on/off at will if you so wanted.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 12:46 PM
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I'm interested in this as well. I have a 86 with all emissions removed. I also have a a full performance exhaust. When i got my car, the aux port actuators were already removed. One would assume that the sleeves were removed as well. Thru reading tons of info on forums about the aux ports, ive learned that removing them altogether will hurt low end power. My car seems pretty quick all around which as me puzzled (with the exception of 5th gear pulls from a low rpm).....One day when im feeling ambitious, ill take the manifold off to see if the sleeves are still in there.......
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 12:56 PM
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my exhaust had the pipe and i had it connected but the pipe the pipe was almost broken at the end so i yanked it out ( b4 i knew its purpose) i never checked to see if the ports were opening but due to my dyno i dont think they were not properly atleast. i also noticed that my rpms would climb slower after 4000 rpm. ill take some pictures of eveything when i get home and post them up
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 02:50 PM
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you can always dab a lil grease on the rods and see if they are working, 130-140 is about all your going to get on a s4 with just exhaust.

if the pipe is broke your 6 ports are'nt working try just zip tie them open or run them off a rpm switch.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 02:57 PM
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im going to do the electric 6 port conversion but right now i dont have the money should i leave the ports how they are now till i do the conversion or should i wire them open? also my scanner broke so i wont be able to post the dyno sheet yet but here are some pictures i warn you tho the pictures are going to be large here they are

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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 03:09 PM
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dewey
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Originally Posted by Texas_Ace
Well if you don't know if they are closed or open, how do you know they are not working?
i know they arent working because i have no actuators there and i can flip them open or closed. and i'm guessing i have them both closed.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 04:06 PM
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I'm going to flip my levers open and zip tie them in that position and see if i notice any difference in how the car feels.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 06:41 PM
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To the OP, your ports are closed right now with those pictures.

As for the eletric mod, i just bought a pump today for $10. The rest of the parts i HAVE to have is just a few bucks. Then you can just use a manual switch to open/close them. then later get the RPM switch.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 09:25 PM
  #20  
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then im going to go ahead and do the electric mod
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 11:20 PM
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good, just remember that if you use a manual switch those pumps can't run forever. You need to turn it off when you are not reving over ~4500.
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