2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

5th and 6th port Actuators

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Old May 7, 2013 | 09:52 AM
  #26  
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From: Ft. Collins
Anybody?
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Old May 7, 2013 | 10:34 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 94bajakid
Okay, I have actuators sleeves and both gaskets. Now the question is how do I put them back in? And what air lines do I need to hook up? Anyone have a write up? And yes I have searched.
The sleeves or the actuators?

The sleeves I think you just slide in. I haven't done the swap yet myself, but that is my intended strategy

You'll need a few gaskets for the actuators:
Intake Gaskets (at the bottom - replace the rod seal as well)

Actuators are directional - there should be a "F" and "R" stamped somewhere on them if memory serves.

These should have some connection to the exhaust system for backpressure actuation. I currently have an aftermarket setup so I can't tell you where the stock tube is. I think it T'ees off the split-air pipe - but check this out, should be some help:
1988 FSM - fuel system

In fact, just bookmark the whole FSM / tech specs page:
http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual#secondgen

Last edited by ioTus; May 7, 2013 at 10:34 AM. Reason: added even more awesomeness
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Old May 7, 2013 | 10:39 AM
  #28  
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From: Ft. Collins
Yeah I have two gaskets for the actuators, a LIM gasket and the actuators and the sleeves. Thanks for the info I'll have to check out the FSM.
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Old May 7, 2013 | 10:42 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by hypntyz7
Both sleeves are the same. On the engine, the ports are OPEN when facing TOWARDS each rotor...front facing back, rear facing forward. So turn your sleeve the right direction, and make note of where the crossbar is oriented(shoudl be nearly horizontal). Slide them in. Be sure to lube them.

Now move your rods on the lower intake to match the orientation of the sleeves. Install intake, and check to be sure they move freely by hand. Now install your actuators. The rods will them be moved by the actuators to the closed position. Check again to be sure they still move freely, adn continue the install.
Then bolt the actuators to intake. There is a nipple on the split air tube just below the check valve. Connect that to the actuators to feed pressure.

The actuators should go in pretty smoothly. If it's fighting you, you're probably doing something wrong.
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Old May 7, 2013 | 11:25 AM
  #30  
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From: Ft. Collins
This is them right? I don't see an F or R but They need to be cleaned
Attached Thumbnails 5th and 6th port Actuators-image-4035103458.jpg  
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Old May 7, 2013 | 11:33 AM
  #31  
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Yep, that's them.
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Old May 7, 2013 | 11:38 AM
  #32  
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From: Ft. Collins
Cool thanks. Also another question, on the block where the furthest rear actuator should go there are those two studs and a hole, but someone put some sort of blocking in that hole. I am guessing I need to remove that some how?
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Old May 8, 2013 | 03:26 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 94bajakid
Cool thanks. Also another question, on the block where the furthest rear actuator should go there are those two studs and a hole, but someone put some sort of blocking in that hole. I am guessing I need to remove that some how?
the blocked off the hole in the block?????

If i understand correctly that means they blocked off the 6 ports entirely, so you're actually only running 4 ports and probably losing about 15-20hp through the entire powerband.

Pictures would clarify.
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Old May 9, 2013 | 11:16 AM
  #34  
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From: Ft. Collins
Originally Posted by ioTus

the blocked off the hole in the block?????

If i understand correctly that means they blocked off the 6 ports entirely, so you're actually only running 4 ports and probably losing about 15-20hp through the entire powerband.

Pictures would clarify.
Not IN the block but right where the actuator should go. I'll snap a pic today after emissions
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Old May 9, 2013 | 12:28 PM
  #35  
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From: Ft. Collins
5th and 6th port Actuators-image-3122035162.jpg
Attached Thumbnails 5th and 6th port Actuators-image-4033339251.jpg  
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Old May 9, 2013 | 12:53 PM
  #36  
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OK thats the lower intake manifold not the block, scared me for a second there lol

yah you're gonna need to get that gunk outa there. You're also going to need the shaft that connects the actuator pots to the sleeves.

You may consider getting a new LIM entirely, if that can't be unplugged easily. i'm sure you'd be able to tradesies straight across for someone who wants to delete their aux port sleeves.
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Old May 9, 2013 | 01:04 PM
  #37  
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From: Ft. Collins
Originally Posted by ioTus
OK thats the lower intake manifold not the block, scared me for a second there lol

yah you're gonna need to get that gunk outa there. You're also going to need the shaft that connects the actuator pots to the sleeves.

You may consider getting a new LIM entirely, if that can't be unplugged easily. i'm sure you'd be able to tradesies straight across for someone who wants to delete their aux port sleeves.
Okay! Thanks for the information. What does the shaft look like that connects the two? I have boxes of parts from the PO and I could possibly find them.
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Old May 9, 2013 | 01:29 PM
  #38  
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it's going to be alot less headache to just find a replacement manifold. you can usually find them for next to nothing.
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Old May 9, 2013 | 01:52 PM
  #39  
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From: Washington State
Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
it's going to be alot less headache to just find a replacement manifold. you can usually find them for next to nothing.
+1 on this.


you can find a manifold with them pre-installed. However, they have a flat mount piece with a lever (it goes where those two bolt holes are on either side of the plugged hole), backside of the lever has a solid metal shaft and then a spring portion of the shaft, (like those twangy door stop things) and then a notched metal piece at the end to grab the port sleeve.

Can take a pic when i get home if i remember.
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Old May 9, 2013 | 02:58 PM
  #40  
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From: Ft. Collins
Thanks guys, I will start looking.
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