5th and 6th port Actuators
The sleeves I think you just slide in. I haven't done the swap yet myself, but that is my intended strategy

You'll need a few gaskets for the actuators:
Intake Gaskets (at the bottom - replace the rod seal as well)
Actuators are directional - there should be a "F" and "R" stamped somewhere on them if memory serves.
These should have some connection to the exhaust system for backpressure actuation. I currently have an aftermarket setup so I can't tell you where the stock tube is. I think it T'ees off the split-air pipe - but check this out, should be some help:
1988 FSM - fuel system
In fact, just bookmark the whole FSM / tech specs page:
http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual#secondgen
Last edited by ioTus; May 7, 2013 at 10:34 AM. Reason: added even more awesomeness
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,600
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From: Norcal/Bay Area, CA
Both sleeves are the same. On the engine, the ports are OPEN when facing TOWARDS each rotor...front facing back, rear facing forward. So turn your sleeve the right direction, and make note of where the crossbar is oriented(shoudl be nearly horizontal). Slide them in. Be sure to lube them.
Now move your rods on the lower intake to match the orientation of the sleeves. Install intake, and check to be sure they move freely by hand. Now install your actuators. The rods will them be moved by the actuators to the closed position. Check again to be sure they still move freely, adn continue the install.
Now move your rods on the lower intake to match the orientation of the sleeves. Install intake, and check to be sure they move freely by hand. Now install your actuators. The rods will them be moved by the actuators to the closed position. Check again to be sure they still move freely, adn continue the install.
The actuators should go in pretty smoothly. If it's fighting you, you're probably doing something wrong.
Cool thanks. Also another question, on the block where the furthest rear actuator should go there are those two studs and a hole, but someone put some sort of blocking in that hole. I am guessing I need to remove that some how?
If i understand correctly that means they blocked off the 6 ports entirely, so you're actually only running 4 ports and probably losing about 15-20hp through the entire powerband.
Pictures would clarify.
Not IN the block but right where the actuator should go. I'll snap a pic today after emissions
OK thats the lower intake manifold not the block, scared me for a second there lol 
yah you're gonna need to get that gunk outa there. You're also going to need the shaft that connects the actuator pots to the sleeves.
You may consider getting a new LIM entirely, if that can't be unplugged easily. i'm sure you'd be able to tradesies straight across for someone who wants to delete their aux port sleeves.

yah you're gonna need to get that gunk outa there. You're also going to need the shaft that connects the actuator pots to the sleeves.
You may consider getting a new LIM entirely, if that can't be unplugged easily. i'm sure you'd be able to tradesies straight across for someone who wants to delete their aux port sleeves.
OK thats the lower intake manifold not the block, scared me for a second there lol 
yah you're gonna need to get that gunk outa there. You're also going to need the shaft that connects the actuator pots to the sleeves.
You may consider getting a new LIM entirely, if that can't be unplugged easily. i'm sure you'd be able to tradesies straight across for someone who wants to delete their aux port sleeves.

yah you're gonna need to get that gunk outa there. You're also going to need the shaft that connects the actuator pots to the sleeves.
You may consider getting a new LIM entirely, if that can't be unplugged easily. i'm sure you'd be able to tradesies straight across for someone who wants to delete their aux port sleeves.
you can find a manifold with them pre-installed. However, they have a flat mount piece with a lever (it goes where those two bolt holes are on either side of the plugged hole), backside of the lever has a solid metal shaft and then a spring portion of the shaft, (like those twangy door stop things) and then a notched metal piece at the end to grab the port sleeve.
Can take a pic when i get home if i remember.
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