I am (forever) in the process of building my rx7.

The big ticket items i have are a
cosmo re
pheniox turbo t04s
devided tubular mani (not ebay)
lage wg
wolf 4d v4 ems
innovate motorsports LM-1 and LMA-3
os gilkin twinplate clutch
custom (myself) 3" dp and mp to a randomtech 3" cat and 3" borla xr-1 then 2.5" Y to some cheapy cans
i got a deal on some 10th aniversery cobra wheels with 275's out back
large frountmount etc

plus all the lilttle air/ fuel upgrades and the $1,000 in random hardware you buy without knowing it

I have $12,000+ into my rx7, and i do all my own work

setup if dyno'd should be good for 380-400ish around 16lbss on pump, lilttle higher on race gas


Im not gloating, or preaching, just giving you a real world situation. Yes i could have built it for less, however i feel that this was a semi-reliable route that i am comfortable with

 

LS1, heads, cam, intake, exhaust - ~500hp

Less than 6 grand.

heck of a lot easier than a t2 swap...or a 20b swap for that matter.

www.v8rx7forum.com

Don't waste your time w/ any of that other garbage. Theres plenty of v8 swapped 7s in texas too so there will be more than enough help. Esp. if you know your stuff and have the funds.

 

just to help this is how much im in so far.
hbp port+ rebuild parts: 1500
500r turbo kit from aspec: 4200
stainless fuel system: 300
custom ic: 400+compression tube
methanol setup: 800
im figuring about 700 worth of tuning/dyno time
ive spent tons on little crap from autozone too.... so be prepared to blow through your budget... quckly.
i got my car with a haltech, wideband, big injectors, no a/c or ps,and some of the necessary gauges. i havent even touched the suspension.

 

i seriously had a shoebox FULL of recipts from napa and ace hardware ALONE for nuts, bolts, gasket material, orings etc etc etc etc etc etc

 

BhhAhhahhahahHahAhhahAHAhAhhahahaahahahahahahaahah ah

What a load of crock!

That was SUPER FUNNY!
You just made my weekend!


-Ted

 

Well, to get 300 out of a n/a some type of bridgeport+ is going to have to happen and the low end lose you get from a bridge would kill your drifting and circuit ideas. Plus for circuit you want something that spools out fast if you go turbo and with 500+ hp you will have to have a big turbo or big boost, making you loose some spool.

Sell your RX7 and get an Evo, I hear alot of Evo and STI drivers say they can "do it all"









But really making a car for "anything" is only done with either 3 things.
1. rich daddy
2. sponsors
3. in videogames

Best to try and pick 1 thing for the car and go from there.



Hey Reted...
that made my weekend.

 

What I meant when I said I dont have a budget for this, is that Im not setting a price limit. I have the money to do it, Im just not limiting my self to a budget.

 

Ok, so basically your saying that a car cant be ready for street, strip and drift? All it takes is suspension and driver to do all three. A car that is street track ready should also be able to drift. Drift is a skill not a set-up. And with the power needed for street tracks, add some NOS and hold the wheel in a straight line and you will have a drag car. Its not that hard to do all three. Sure it wont be the best of a drag car if its set-up for drift/street tracks, but it IS doable. So....

But anyway, since most of you are telling me I cant afford this, Im just gonna do it my way anyway. For those of you who actually provided insightful information, I appreciate it. For the rest of you elitist numb nuts, whatever...

 

OK, so now we know you have $10000+ to spend which "ONE DAY" you say it will be completed. The fact now is that you can't make a car that is designed to do all three. Suspensions and power levels have different setups for each type of racing. I think what you want is a car that can handle but have enough grunt on the straightaway which is how I am gonna be setup. Try getting a To4e Turbo or a GT35R which is what most are using these days. You would see 350-450hp, and should be able to run 11s easily. I am going with the BNR Stage 1 Turbo aiming for 280+whp@14psi this year, and plan to go HKS TO4E Kit next year with my current car or another fc I plan to get and will be looking for 400+whp@16psi. Btw, since you have a lot of money, sell your car, and buy a T2. It makes things a lot easier, and you will be able to start modding it a lot faster.

 

Yeah, but finding a Tii around here for anything close to what I paid for my NA is going to be completely impossible. My NA has a straight body and a great running motor so far. Plus I have only had to pay $25 bucks to fix it so far. If I try to find a Tii in my area for $1025 its gonna need a hell of a lot more work then the car I have now. Deals on imports in my area are few and far between and usually shitty deals at that. So, Im not gonna sell my car and get a Tii because... Well Im just not. It took me long enough to find a 2nd Gen RX-7 anyway.

So what I am gonna do, however, is like I said. Buy a S5 motor from a salvage yard and rebuild it from there. That way I know exactly what is in my car, and I will know it very intimately. Not like Im gonna hump my tail pipes (well I might depending on how sexy it becomes when Im done), but you get the idea. I prefer to buy a car and gut it and start over for that particular reason. It makes it easier for me to know what is in it and how to fix it if something goes wrong.

 

LS1: more like $6k for the engine, plus labor of installing, and 350wHP (after bolt-ons, which I'm sure the Corvette comes with stock). Effectively a little less from the added weight, but not much less.

Since the original poster sounds serious, I'll post the common methods so he can search and learn how to do this himself:

Engine
Peripheral port for maximum high end power. A street port is cheaper and improves both low end and high end power, but doesn't give as much high end power. A bridge port is similar to a peripheral port but it is cheaper and gives less power. In fact, a street port might do as well or better than a bridge port on a curvy track even though the bridge port's peak power is higher.
20B for a larger engine to start out with. 2.0L 3 rotor instead of the RX-7's 1.3L 2 rotor.
Install finely balanced rotors to increase the redline. You can also get rotors with a higher/lower compression.
Engine rebuilding: Should still be much easier than a piston engine. Ya, ofcourse you might go slower b/c it's your first time.
Tuning: Similar to a piston engine, I'd presume. Search for more details.

Other
Turbo upgrades: Same as a piston engine, except rotaries can't handle quite as much boost. Water or alcohol injection for even higher boost. 1 good knock will kill a rotary, so tune conservatively.
Same goes for overheating, pull over if the temp gets too high. On the s5 you'll probably want an aftermarket temp gauge, since the stock one is heavily weighted towards the center.
Bolt-ons: same as piston engine
Fuel system, drivetrain upgrades: Stock can handle up to 250wHP, or up to 300wHP for a short time. After that you need to upgrade.

This is just common stuff. Don't ask me for details, because I don't know. Use the search tool and the FAQ to find everything.

 

The main reason to sell your NA and get a TII is because your gonna have to swap out the whole NA drivetrain(transmission, driveshaft, diff, axles) for a TII one anyway if you want to make any real power. The NA drivetrain can't handle the kind of power you want to make and getting all the parts for a full drivetrain swap takes time and patience waiting for all the parts to become available and buying them through the forum, not to mention that S5 parts are harder to find. Then theres the labor of swapping it all out. Its just less work to start with a TII if you want to make real power.

The only NA rx7 I'd bother doing a full TII swap with is a convertable since it was not available as a turbo in the states.

 

OH MY GOD HE WILL HAVE TO TAKE OUT THE TRANSMISSION ANYWAY!

If you are too dumb ******* lazy and retarded to drop the subframe a little pull out some axles and bolt another differential in your car go buy a ******* camaro.

And dont go with an LS1 swap. 2 guys with FDs at autocross today, one has an LS1 with 255s in the back and 235s in the front, azenis, other one has RB exhaust and downpipe and high flow cat on stock boost with stock wheels and tire size in azenis, 225 50 16.

For the last run they switched cars to see what the other was like, the guy who owned the rotary FD expected it to be fun actually and thought about doing the swap, the the car was terrible to control. It Didn't like turning in at all and tapping the throttle at all would make the back end unstable.

Well, all the while the FD with the rotary kept everything under control and managed to get close to the same time, within a second i believe, with less rubber and only 265hp to the wheels.

I dont mean to change this into an ls1 vs rotary debate but im just saying what i've learned.

For the record the guy with the rotary FD said he didn't like it and would never do the swap.

Now, with all that set aside, some one give the guy a damn break.

 

WORD!

Like Juiceh said. But if you really want to get to know the car, I guess its not a bad idea, since my first Rx-7 Turbo was a bare shell with missing interior,engine,drivetrain, body parts, and I put it all back together. But i spent around $5000 which I upgraded everyrthing that was missing. Still it will cost just about as much to do a full t2 conversion than to buy one. and can cost more when you find out the low-mileage engine has a blown rotor and housing so then it will cost $1000 for rebuild kit plus $1000 for new housing and rotor, but then you might as well do two new housings and rotors. That's what I am getting at. One of my friends got a junkyard motor and when he opened it up one rotor and housing was screwed. But if you really want to take the risks, go ahead. Just make sure you do a FULL T2 swap and do not use the NA drivetrain, it will not be able to hold that 500whp you want.

 

im sorry dude not to shoot you doing but how do you plan on doing all three? a car designed to slide...(Drift) is obviously not going to handle to be competitive on a track....(grip) it doesn't take much to get down the 1/4 fast you're just going straight, so that should be easy with either setup....but it will have to be somewhere in between Drift and grip and that means it won't be very good for either.

sorry dude but good luck I'd go with grip that's what the 7 is for.....

 

damn someone needs a hug....lol i do agree but it is easier to start with the Turbo, i did the swap in my gxl and 9i wish i would have started with a TII and then modded that.....just my opinion.

 

You can change wheels and tires alignment shock dampening springs and sway bars out to make the car do what you want. You dont have to always keep it the same.

 

I just hate how everyone is always like, TEH OMG, CHANGING DIFFERENTIAL, TOO HARD BRAIN ASPLODE. It;s not like the bearings and clutch packs and mounts (especially the front) are going to last forever anyway. Some people shouldn't post up complaining about an extra 5 - 6 hours of labor.

 

yeah i know that...it sounds like he wants to be able to go from track to track after one another and have the car be able to run any of the 3

 

Honestly i think it's retarded to set something up for drifting anyway, making your car into something that can grip the road and handle really well and then drifting it is impressive, but jesus, just building something to oversteer, that, is , retarded.

 

If the guy is asking what it takes to make a 500hp+ rx7.....We sure as hell have alot of people with them than I thought we did, looking at how many people talking!

 

are you serious?

Um, you must be.

Figuring out that rats nest of wiring in any TII much less a 20b were they don't even make ENGLISH wiring diagrams is a NIGHTMARE

Trying to say a TII swap is easier than a LS1 swap is like saying its easier to run a mile with a broken leg.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-7-L...QQcmdZViewItem

6k for an engine? Try 3400, and thats not even shopping around.

Labor of installing? The way he talked about it he was going to do it himself. 350whp w/ bolt ons? I've seem my PLENTY of cam only ls1s making 400hp.

 

If LSis and monsterous amounts of torques are so great, why don't they just build LS1s and put superchargers on them to make 800HP and put them into F1 cars?

Just wondering.

 

Yeah, I am.
I think you're the one that's pulling **** out of your ***.
Since when an LS1 put down 500 at the wheels?
Since when the whole LS1 swap only going to cost $6k?


Oh, so you're implying an LS1 wiring harness is easier to figure out?

Eh dumbfuck, it's called a stand-alone EMS.
20B - $3k
Haltech E6K + IG5 - $1.5k
MSD DIS-4 - $300
...we did a 20B into an FC for $6k.


You got a poor grasp of the English langauge then.
Hell, you can't even figure out wiring diagrams?
Yeah, that makes you an idiot.

13BT swap harder?
Uh, trans drops in.
Engine drops in.
How the **** does a V8 get to be easier???
Hell, pull the all parts from a donor Turbo II, and you get something that DROPS RIGHT IN.
Since when an LS1 + TRANSMISSION was DROP IN?

Oh, you're talking V8 + carbs!
Damn, didn't know LS1's came with carbs, the last time I checked under a Chevy!

DUH

PWNED


-Ted