5 point harness worth it ?
#4
Like a G6
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is it safer
easier to use
also it doesnt help that my head is a inch give or take from my roof.
Riz.
#5
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The only reason why you should even consider this is,
1) your going to autocross or drift quite a bit
2) replacing those god awful auto seat belts
and most importantly,
3) if your putting in a roll cage.
If not its considered very ricer.
and please if you are going to put them on, please use a harness bar, NRG makes one, but I have never seen a good write up or anyone in general with them.
1) your going to autocross or drift quite a bit
2) replacing those god awful auto seat belts
and most importantly,
3) if your putting in a roll cage.
If not its considered very ricer.
and please if you are going to put them on, please use a harness bar, NRG makes one, but I have never seen a good write up or anyone in general with them.
#7
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When it comes to car control once you drive with a harness it's hard to go back. You don't realize it now but even with the FCs good seating position and lateral support you are bracing yourself alot and using the wheel to stay in position when driving hard. When you switch to a harness you get to focus on the wheel, your pedals and the car. If frees your mind from constant bracing. It's worth a lot of time on an Autocross course or road course.
Regarding safety. I had the unfortunate experience of totaling a car while wearing a 4 point harness. It has one less connection point but still far superior to standard belt. The crash was dynamic with three sides of my car hitting the concrete barrier hard at separate times. With a three point belt I would have been slammed into my door and I would have had a broken clavicle. Ask an EMT or a cop they will tell you that shoulder belts break your clavicle in a heavy impact.
Convenience. Absolutely inconvenient. At club events or gatherings I was almost always one of the last cars to get moving since my harness took some time to buckle.
Go for it. Check your local laws. Some police frown upon 4 point harnesses. Texas come to mind. I believe Scroth makes DOT legal harnesses but I'm just getting back into tuning so that may be old info.
Regarding safety. I had the unfortunate experience of totaling a car while wearing a 4 point harness. It has one less connection point but still far superior to standard belt. The crash was dynamic with three sides of my car hitting the concrete barrier hard at separate times. With a three point belt I would have been slammed into my door and I would have had a broken clavicle. Ask an EMT or a cop they will tell you that shoulder belts break your clavicle in a heavy impact.
Convenience. Absolutely inconvenient. At club events or gatherings I was almost always one of the last cars to get moving since my harness took some time to buckle.
Go for it. Check your local laws. Some police frown upon 4 point harnesses. Texas come to mind. I believe Scroth makes DOT legal harnesses but I'm just getting back into tuning so that may be old info.
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#8
MECP Certified Installer
When it comes to car control once you drive with a harness it's hard to go back. You don't realize it now but even with the FCs good seating position and lateral support you are bracing yourself alot and using the wheel to stay in position when driving hard. When you switch to a harness you get to focus on the wheel, your pedals and the car. If frees your mind from constant bracing. It's worth a lot of time on an Autocross course or road course.
Regarding safety. I had the unfortunate experience of totaling a car while wearing a 4 point harness. It has one less connection point but still far superior to standard belt. The crash was dynamic with three sides of my car hitting the concrete barrier hard at separate times. With a three point belt I would have been slammed into my door and I would have had a broken clavicle. Ask an EMT or a cop they will tell you that shoulder belts break your clavicle in a heavy impact.
Convenience. Absolutely inconvenient. At club events or gatherings I was almost always one of the last cars to get moving since my harness took some time to buckle.
Go for it. Check your local laws. Some police frown upon 4 point harnesses. Texas come to mind. I believe Scroth makes DOT legal harnesses but I'm just getting back into tuning so that may be old info.
Regarding safety. I had the unfortunate experience of totaling a car while wearing a 4 point harness. It has one less connection point but still far superior to standard belt. The crash was dynamic with three sides of my car hitting the concrete barrier hard at separate times. With a three point belt I would have been slammed into my door and I would have had a broken clavicle. Ask an EMT or a cop they will tell you that shoulder belts break your clavicle in a heavy impact.
Convenience. Absolutely inconvenient. At club events or gatherings I was almost always one of the last cars to get moving since my harness took some time to buckle.
Go for it. Check your local laws. Some police frown upon 4 point harnesses. Texas come to mind. I believe Scroth makes DOT legal harnesses but I'm just getting back into tuning so that may be old info.
We hit a tree at 40mph. They hit the tree, I wasn't driving.
#11
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Think about where the shoulder belts will attach. If you do not have a roll bar, then DO NOT INSTALL A HARNESS.
I've seen complete idiots install them with extensions that go to the floor bolts behind the seat.
Do you know what compression does to one's spine? Belts pressing DOWN on your shoulders in a wreck are more dangerous than the factory seatbelt.
Look at a proper installation or at factory seat belts.. Attachment point at or above your shoulder line so that the belts hold you in the seat, pressed against the back, not pulling down.
I've seen complete idiots install them with extensions that go to the floor bolts behind the seat.
Do you know what compression does to one's spine? Belts pressing DOWN on your shoulders in a wreck are more dangerous than the factory seatbelt.
Look at a proper installation or at factory seat belts.. Attachment point at or above your shoulder line so that the belts hold you in the seat, pressed against the back, not pulling down.
#13
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attach the lap belts using the stock mountsby using extended lugs.then attach the Crotch belt to where-ever you can securely.(floor)
The shoulder belts can be attached to the back section behind the Fiberglass floor bucket area,Or try to attach them to the Strut bar running across the rear of the car.
OH.this setup would allow you to retain the stock belts.
I really do suggest a NRG bar though.
The shoulder belts can be attached to the back section behind the Fiberglass floor bucket area,Or try to attach them to the Strut bar running across the rear of the car.
OH.this setup would allow you to retain the stock belts.
I really do suggest a NRG bar though.
#14
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I havent seen a aftermarket seat that will sit lower than stock.. I have corbeau cr1 and harness not a fan of them . I have stock ones in my vert and A.E. again I wouldn't do it unless it was a full track cark... as far as being Illegal so is not running a front plate, modifing exhaust ect.
#15
slow but sure
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In my vast one harnessed car experience, and some general research, bolting the harness to a position on the vehicle behind you is okay as long as the mounting point isn't over 30 degrees below the horizontal perpendicular of the vertical (or close to) line created by the back of your seat and your spine. Otherwise they're right, you will compress your spine in a head-on. The best way to avoid this if you don't have a back seat or high enough mounting point is by wrapping a harness bar or a cross brace on a roll bar.
Now as far as low seating goes, my even more vast two aftermarket seat experience as well as more research has shared that a pair of fixed side mounting brackets on a fixed back bucket will usually allow you to nearly set the seat bottom on the floor of the vehicle, generally giving the lowest position. These fixed buckets usually have slimmer padding on the bottom and therefore become less comfy as the day wears on...a trade-off for stability and ride height just like the holding power vs. ease of use of the harness. Either way it's important to get a seat back with shoulder harness holes as close to the tops of your shoulders as possible to ensure as straight a line to the rear mounting point as possible.
Tip: Keep the stock belts bolted in and just toss the harness straps under and behind the seat when not at the track.
I have just recently purchased a Bride Zeta III Type-L with the type FG (lowest sliding seat rail Bride makes) seat rail for my FD with sunroof. In a couple months I will install it and give a thorough description for inquiring minds. I'm 6'2" so hopefully I can adjust my seating position to allow me to get a helmet in there. (I'm not optimistic just yet) I did purchase a slightly smaller diameter steering wheel for clearance as well as a spacer or two to move the wheel closer to my new seating position and away from my sasquatch knees. This steering extension may allow me to comfortably recline the seat slightly granting me the head clearance us larger folk with FDs are always chasing.
I'm toying with the idea of removing the headliner and power sunroof rails in pursuit of a hinged unit(think 240sx roof, 1st gen Eclipse roof or Dodge Caravan rear side windows) and a bit more clearance but have yet to actually look at the mechanisms and roof bracing under the head liner.
Now as far as low seating goes, my even more vast two aftermarket seat experience as well as more research has shared that a pair of fixed side mounting brackets on a fixed back bucket will usually allow you to nearly set the seat bottom on the floor of the vehicle, generally giving the lowest position. These fixed buckets usually have slimmer padding on the bottom and therefore become less comfy as the day wears on...a trade-off for stability and ride height just like the holding power vs. ease of use of the harness. Either way it's important to get a seat back with shoulder harness holes as close to the tops of your shoulders as possible to ensure as straight a line to the rear mounting point as possible.
Tip: Keep the stock belts bolted in and just toss the harness straps under and behind the seat when not at the track.
I have just recently purchased a Bride Zeta III Type-L with the type FG (lowest sliding seat rail Bride makes) seat rail for my FD with sunroof. In a couple months I will install it and give a thorough description for inquiring minds. I'm 6'2" so hopefully I can adjust my seating position to allow me to get a helmet in there. (I'm not optimistic just yet) I did purchase a slightly smaller diameter steering wheel for clearance as well as a spacer or two to move the wheel closer to my new seating position and away from my sasquatch knees. This steering extension may allow me to comfortably recline the seat slightly granting me the head clearance us larger folk with FDs are always chasing.
I'm toying with the idea of removing the headliner and power sunroof rails in pursuit of a hinged unit(think 240sx roof, 1st gen Eclipse roof or Dodge Caravan rear side windows) and a bit more clearance but have yet to actually look at the mechanisms and roof bracing under the head liner.
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