5 interior beeps..keeps on beepin.
#1
rotoryat16....4 life...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
5 interior beeps..keeps on beepin.
I had this issue before but someone told me it was the return for the turn signals wasn't lined up. so i disconnected that entire thing and it didn't happen the entire night after i took it off. The next day i start my car and then 5 or so minutes later it starts again. It is really annoying and i am driving my car to Cali next week and cant handle those 5 beeps...anyone know anything???
#3
rotoryat16....4 life...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#4
(blank)
iTrader: (1)
The arrow on the portion that turns with the steering wheel has to be at 9 o'clock when the steering wheel is straight. This same part has two tabs (at 12 and 6 if aligned properly with steering centered); these go into the back of the steering wheel hub. The power steering computer is what's beeping at you.
#5
rotoryat16....4 life...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The arrow on the portion that turns with the steering wheel has to be at 9 o'clock when the steering wheel is straight. This same part has two tabs (at 12 and 6 if aligned properly with steering centered); these go into the back of the steering wheel hub. The power steering computer is what's beeping at you.
#7
Clean.
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by FAQ
I keep hearing a beep beep beep
Probably the power steering computer telling you there is a problem with the system. The number of beeps before pausing will indicate the problem.
1-beep, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of speed sensor signal:
In case broken wires or short circuits occur to sensors or harnesses, the buzzer sounds 60-seconds after the engine speed signal of 2200 rpm continues for 18-seconds.
2-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of engine speed signal:
The buzzer sounds twice and repeats when the vehicle speed signal is missing input and/or no engine speed signal is found (short circuit, broken wire, etc.)
3-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of stepping motor signal:
The buzzer sounds when there are broken wires or short circuits in coils or harnesses.
4-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of the power steering microcomputer:
The buzzer sounds 4 and repeats when there are circuit troubles other than with the micro computer.
5-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of steering sensor signal: Steering sensor is mis-aligned or failed or steering wheel has been improperly installed.
Probably the power steering computer telling you there is a problem with the system. The number of beeps before pausing will indicate the problem.
1-beep, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of speed sensor signal:
In case broken wires or short circuits occur to sensors or harnesses, the buzzer sounds 60-seconds after the engine speed signal of 2200 rpm continues for 18-seconds.
2-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of engine speed signal:
The buzzer sounds twice and repeats when the vehicle speed signal is missing input and/or no engine speed signal is found (short circuit, broken wire, etc.)
3-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of stepping motor signal:
The buzzer sounds when there are broken wires or short circuits in coils or harnesses.
4-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of the power steering microcomputer:
The buzzer sounds 4 and repeats when there are circuit troubles other than with the micro computer.
5-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of steering sensor signal: Steering sensor is mis-aligned or failed or steering wheel has been improperly installed.
Trending Topics
#8
rotoryat16....4 life...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#9
rotoryat16....4 life...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#10
Boost ahoy!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Joplin, MO
Posts: 968
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Think of it this way. Since this was covered in the FAQs, you could have found the answer within 5 minutes of looking through it. They aren't there for the soul idea of people insulting you and telling you to do something else. Believe it or not, they are there for the convenience of people who have a question that has been covered a million times. Heck, I look through that thing a lot, because for some reason, I learn something new every time.
#12
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Yes, it will kill your power steering.
the power steering needs the steering wheel position sensor to work correctly for the power steering to work correctly.
So if you removed or didn't install the wheel correctly (as covered in the FAQ for FC) you need to fix the steering position sensor or disconnect the power steering computer.
the power steering needs the steering wheel position sensor to work correctly for the power steering to work correctly.
So if you removed or didn't install the wheel correctly (as covered in the FAQ for FC) you need to fix the steering position sensor or disconnect the power steering computer.
#13
rotoryat16....4 life...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks man, but like i said i am new so every time i try searching anything under the FAQ regarding this issue i dont get anything...and i actually have no idea what FSM stands for.
#14
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
FSM is the acronym for factory service manual choose one of the below.
(86-88 only)
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/
and (89-91 only)
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1989_1991/
(86-88 only)
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/
and (89-91 only)
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1989_1991/
#15
(blank)
iTrader: (1)
The power steering wheel position sensor is at the back of the steering wheel. Once you remove the steering wheel you'll see it right away. One part pivots because it has tabs that stick out towards alignment holes in the wheel, and the other part is fixed to the steering column. When the steering wheel is straight, the tabs should be vertical and the arrow on the pivoting portion aligned with the fixed portion (I believe 9 o' clock).
We have variable assist power steering. The computer (under the steering column above your knees when driving) adjusts assist depending on either RPM or speed and turning angle. If you unplug the p/s computer, I think you'll still have power steering (not 100% sure), but it won't be variable.
With the system working, I can sometimes feel the changes in assist. My advice - fix the problem if all it is is putting a new sensor in. Make sure you mark/paint the wheel position relative to the shaft (to maintain alignment), and torque the nut for safety.
We have variable assist power steering. The computer (under the steering column above your knees when driving) adjusts assist depending on either RPM or speed and turning angle. If you unplug the p/s computer, I think you'll still have power steering (not 100% sure), but it won't be variable.
With the system working, I can sometimes feel the changes in assist. My advice - fix the problem if all it is is putting a new sensor in. Make sure you mark/paint the wheel position relative to the shaft (to maintain alignment), and torque the nut for safety.
#16
rotoryat16....4 life...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The power steering wheel position sensor is at the back of the steering wheel. Once you remove the steering wheel you'll see it right away. One part pivots because it has tabs that stick out towards alignment holes in the wheel, and the other part is fixed to the steering column. When the steering wheel is straight, the tabs should be vertical and the arrow on the pivoting portion aligned with the fixed portion (I believe 9 o' clock).
We have variable assist power steering. The computer (under the steering column above your knees when driving) adjusts assist depending on either RPM or speed and turning angle. If you unplug the p/s computer, I think you'll still have power steering (not 100% sure), but it won't be variable.
With the system working, I can sometimes feel the changes in assist. My advice - fix the problem if all it is is putting a new sensor in. Make sure you mark/paint the wheel position relative to the shaft (to maintain alignment), and torque the nut for safety.
We have variable assist power steering. The computer (under the steering column above your knees when driving) adjusts assist depending on either RPM or speed and turning angle. If you unplug the p/s computer, I think you'll still have power steering (not 100% sure), but it won't be variable.
With the system working, I can sometimes feel the changes in assist. My advice - fix the problem if all it is is putting a new sensor in. Make sure you mark/paint the wheel position relative to the shaft (to maintain alignment), and torque the nut for safety.
Thanks man, im gonna try popping out the black piece and putting it back in, i looked around and it worked for another kid on here so why not try...if worse comes to worse ill unplug the PS CPU and see whats up with that. Thanks again for ur input!!
#17
Full Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: I-55 @ I20
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you've been here since 06. Haven't you graduated from noob yet?
j/k, I will always be a noob...just the way things are.
Be careful, I broke a tab off the white plastic piece but was lucky and it didn't ruin the part.
Also, once you get everything back together, it must be accurate. Just one slot left or right will cause it to continue to malfunction.
btw, is there supposed to be grease in there. I mean it is plastic parts in there.
I didn't know any better, so I cleaned the old grease that was there and put new grease in. That didn't feel right so I got alot of it out.
j/k, I will always be a noob...just the way things are.
Be careful, I broke a tab off the white plastic piece but was lucky and it didn't ruin the part.
Also, once you get everything back together, it must be accurate. Just one slot left or right will cause it to continue to malfunction.
btw, is there supposed to be grease in there. I mean it is plastic parts in there.
I didn't know any better, so I cleaned the old grease that was there and put new grease in. That didn't feel right so I got alot of it out.
#18
rotoryat16....4 life...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you've been here since 06. Haven't you graduated from noob yet?
j/k, I will always be a noob...just the way things are.
Be careful, I broke a tab off the white plastic piece but was lucky and it didn't ruin the part.
Also, once you get everything back together, it must be accurate. Just one slot left or right will cause it to continue to malfunction.
btw, is there supposed to be grease in there. I mean it is plastic parts in there.
I didn't know any better, so I cleaned the old grease that was there and put new grease in. That didn't feel right so I got alot of it out.
j/k, I will always be a noob...just the way things are.
Be careful, I broke a tab off the white plastic piece but was lucky and it didn't ruin the part.
Also, once you get everything back together, it must be accurate. Just one slot left or right will cause it to continue to malfunction.
btw, is there supposed to be grease in there. I mean it is plastic parts in there.
I didn't know any better, so I cleaned the old grease that was there and put new grease in. That didn't feel right so I got alot of it out.
I actually disconnected the turn signal return... its just down to that back part that points 9 o'clock all the time... is that suppose to move?? i am copying my old Series 5 and i cant figure out what they did different on that one...
i need to figure out a way just to stop that damn beeping... i have tried workin on the entire thing trying everything people suggest but it just wont shut up. Its driving me insane.. i am just gonna have to pull the PS fuse or something...
#19
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
haha, yeah, i just started using my account though..and there is grease in mine.. i am gonna clean it out though and re-grease it.
I actually disconnected the turn signal return... its just down to that back part that points 9 o'clock all the time... is that suppose to move?? i am copying my old Series 5 and i cant figure out what they did different on that one...
i need to figure out a way just to stop that damn beeping... i have tried workin on the entire thing trying everything people suggest but it just wont shut up. Its driving me insane.. i am just gonna have to pull the PS fuse or something...
I actually disconnected the turn signal return... its just down to that back part that points 9 o'clock all the time... is that suppose to move?? i am copying my old Series 5 and i cant figure out what they did different on that one...
i need to figure out a way just to stop that damn beeping... i have tried workin on the entire thing trying everything people suggest but it just wont shut up. Its driving me insane.. i am just gonna have to pull the PS fuse or something...
If everything is in place and plugged in it should work unless you damaged the plastic bushing.
Is everything in place?
#20
rotoryat16....4 life...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No, if you pull the power steering fuse you de-power other circuits too. The power steering fuse is not just for the power steering. It also does the rear defrost and a few other things.
If everything is in place and plugged in it should work unless you damaged the plastic bushing.
Is everything in place?
If everything is in place and plugged in it should work unless you damaged the plastic bushing.
Is everything in place?
everything is in place yeah. The only thing i took off was the top piece for the turn signals.. and everything else is still where it was. i took the back piece off (the 9 o'clock one) and replaced it..but i dunno if it is suppose to turn easily or be tight in there...everything else is still where it was.
#21
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
everything is in place yeah. The only thing i took off was the top piece for the turn signals.. and everything else is still where it was. i took the back piece off (the 9 o'clock one) and replaced it..but i dunno if it is suppose to turn easily or be tight in there...everything else is still where it was.
#22
Full Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: I-55 @ I20
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
YOu need to completely remove the sensor (white washer assembly) and disconnect it from the harness to be able to access the black ring that is behind it.
Then you need to point all arrows to 9 o'clock.
Took some foolin' around but that is what it takes.
Then you need to point all arrows to 9 o'clock.
Took some foolin' around but that is what it takes.