5-bolt conversion questions
5-bolt conversion questions
I will be making a trip to the junkyard this weekend to convert my 88 SE into a 5 bolt with lsd. The rearend is what I have questions about. I need the lsd out of a donor car, but what else? Will it be easier to buy the whole thing, lsd, half-shafts, brakes etc..? How much do you think all this stuff will cost. Also if there is anyone who is parting out a car and wants to sell me the parts let me know. Thanks. Also can some one point me to a write up on the whole process. I searched and didnt come up with much. Thanks Again.
You'll need the entire differential housing. Don't think you need the axles, mount is the same, driveshaft is the same.
However, any junkyard LSD you get will probably need to be rebuilt.
PaulC
However, any junkyard LSD you get will probably need to be rebuilt.
PaulC
Thanks for the info. I am kind of mechanically inclined, but I have never done this kind of thing before so could someone give me some tips or point me to a write up on how to do this. Thanks I appreciate it
Oh and I have one more question, will the whole rearend (differental housing, axles, hubs, etc...) from a T2 bolt up to my car?? I heard that they are stronger, is this correct? Thanks again
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Tips?
Brad's 100% correct, it's easier to drop the whole rear subframe. Doing so in a junkyard might be interesting, but doable..
To drop the rear subframe: Support the car on jackstands, in front of the rear subframe mounts. support the rear diff with a big jack, the subframe with two more if you have them. Disconnect the exhaust, and driveshaft. Pull the calipers (14mm bolts), and disconnect (assuming your doing the 5 bolt conv). Disconnect the swaybar, and rear shocks. Disconnect the camber link (14mm bolt/nut) Pull the 12 or 14mm nuts holding the front mount of the rear subframes, then pull the 21mm nuts holding the front subframe on. Pull the 17mm nuts off the rear diff mounts.. Slowly lower the whole nine yards.
To remove the diff from that mess, disconnect the half shafts at the differential (I dunno if you need to pull the 32mm nuts off the axles at the wheel hubs first, and the front diff mount from the diff. Away you go.
T2 rear won't bolt up without a T2 driveshaft. T2 driveshaft is the wrong length unless you use a T2 Tranny. And then you've gone a hell of a long ways just to get a stronger rear diff which you probably don't need anyway.
PaulC
Brad's 100% correct, it's easier to drop the whole rear subframe. Doing so in a junkyard might be interesting, but doable..
To drop the rear subframe: Support the car on jackstands, in front of the rear subframe mounts. support the rear diff with a big jack, the subframe with two more if you have them. Disconnect the exhaust, and driveshaft. Pull the calipers (14mm bolts), and disconnect (assuming your doing the 5 bolt conv). Disconnect the swaybar, and rear shocks. Disconnect the camber link (14mm bolt/nut) Pull the 12 or 14mm nuts holding the front mount of the rear subframes, then pull the 21mm nuts holding the front subframe on. Pull the 17mm nuts off the rear diff mounts.. Slowly lower the whole nine yards.
To remove the diff from that mess, disconnect the half shafts at the differential (I dunno if you need to pull the 32mm nuts off the axles at the wheel hubs first, and the front diff mount from the diff. Away you go.
T2 rear won't bolt up without a T2 driveshaft. T2 driveshaft is the wrong length unless you use a T2 Tranny. And then you've gone a hell of a long ways just to get a stronger rear diff which you probably don't need anyway.
PaulC
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