5 and 6th ports. Stuck shut?
5 and 6th ports. Stuck shut?
I was reading on Aaron cake site how to check if your 5th and 6th ports are stuck shut. and i was wondering if what he said is referring to the red that i have circled in this picture i took.
And if the things i pointed to in green were the actuators.
Sorry for the newby questions
Step 3 - Check the grease
Park the car (after the spirited drive) and check the grease on the rods. If it has moved or been smeared, then the actuators are working properly. Clean the grease off or it will accumulate dirt and cause them to start sticking. If the grease has not changed, then the actuators are not working and they will need to be fixed.
Park the car (after the spirited drive) and check the grease on the rods. If it has moved or been smeared, then the actuators are working properly. Clean the grease off or it will accumulate dirt and cause them to start sticking. If the grease has not changed, then the actuators are not working and they will need to be fixed.
And if the things i pointed to in green were the actuators.
Sorry for the newby questions
It looks like they are stuck open.
I would try some penetrating oil on the shaft that goes into the LIM, then push them shut & work them loose.
The series 5 N/A port actuators push to open, and only under high load.
Another way to test them: T in a pressure gage and blow into the tube to check at what pressure they open.
Then route the tube inside with the gage on the end, and do a test drive to see when they open.
This also works for the VDI.
When they stick, it's usually the rotating shaft & not the internal sleeves.
I would try some penetrating oil on the shaft that goes into the LIM, then push them shut & work them loose.
The series 5 N/A port actuators push to open, and only under high load.
Another way to test them: T in a pressure gage and blow into the tube to check at what pressure they open.
Then route the tube inside with the gage on the end, and do a test drive to see when they open.
This also works for the VDI.
When they stick, it's usually the rotating shaft & not the internal sleeves.
Last edited by SureShot; Mar 15, 2004 at 12:22 PM.
Originally posted by DEZERTE
LIM?
LIM?
The torque rod that's turned by the actuator gets gummed up right where it goes inside.
Try taking off the hose that goes to the actuator and then get some compressed air and shoot it into the acutator. Don't use too much pressure or it might blow the diaphram. Just hold the compressed air far away and move closer until it works.
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The crank on the end of the actuator turns 90 degrees (towards the diaphragm) when they close.
If you can't work them loose with penetrating oil, you may have to remove the actuator, to pull the torque rods & clean them.
You do not want to pull the LIM.
If you can't work them loose with penetrating oil, you may have to remove the actuator, to pull the torque rods & clean them.
You do not want to pull the LIM.
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If thats an 89-91 it looks about right...
Unbolt the actuators... i think its two 10mm nuts on each one. Take them off, 89-91's work on vaccume, so you should be able to suck on the tubes and get them to move. Applying vaccume to the tubes should make the extend. (it works just the opposite on 86-88's, you have to put pressure on them to get them to extend)
Also... make sure that the shaft sticking out of the LIM that actuators attach to move freely when the actuators are off the car.
I had to replace one of those shafts on my 89 gtu cause the brass bushing it rides on was SHOT... SHOT.. just take the actuators off and try to turn the rod, it should move about 110 degrees in either diretion without hitching...
Unbolt the actuators... i think its two 10mm nuts on each one. Take them off, 89-91's work on vaccume, so you should be able to suck on the tubes and get them to move. Applying vaccume to the tubes should make the extend. (it works just the opposite on 86-88's, you have to put pressure on them to get them to extend)
Also... make sure that the shaft sticking out of the LIM that actuators attach to move freely when the actuators are off the car.
I had to replace one of those shafts on my 89 gtu cause the brass bushing it rides on was SHOT... SHOT.. just take the actuators off and try to turn the rod, it should move about 110 degrees in either diretion without hitching...
Last edited by YearsOfDecay; Mar 15, 2004 at 02:42 PM.
i had to get my whole lim and 5th and 6th ports replaced because they were stuck so bad by that carbon stuff or whatever it is. i took my engine apart a week ago and found that after maybe 15,000 miles they were almost clogged again...so id say keep those suckers as clean as you can. they arnt too hard to get too, id say 4 hours at most would get it all cleaned up and get the car running.
hm, i took the actuators off and oiled and cleaned up the rod, blew a little bit of compressed air into the line and it rose up just fine, so i attatched the hose and bolted the actuators back on, im assuming they are functioning properly now. but the position looks the same as in the original picture that i posted, just much cleaner
edit* What is the valve that aaron cake is referring to on this page of #3 ?
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/6portfix.htm
edit* What is the valve that aaron cake is referring to on this page of #3 ?
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/6portfix.htm
Last edited by DEZERTE; Mar 15, 2004 at 05:08 PM.
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