5/6 Ports are stuck
5/6 Ports are stuck
So I was changing out my header gasket when I decided to see if my 5/6 port + actuators were working.
When I had the actuators off, I pulled on the shaft of them to see if they were working or not. They would move, but it took a bit of effort. So I sprayed some WD-40 on them hoping to lube them up a bit. It didn't really work all that well.
I reassembled them, then put some grease on the shaft of them to see if the grease would move w the ports. Then I took her for a drive. Maybe 8 blocks, hitting higher RPMs for a good while when it was warmed up all the way. Then got home + popped the hood.
Nothing. The grease didn't move at all. I also remember that when I was trying to move the ports by hand (the part that the shaft connected to) + nothing would happen. Should I be able to move them by hand? How can I get them unstuck? After some searching, I think that my air pump may be shot as well. How can I test that?
When I had the actuators off, I pulled on the shaft of them to see if they were working or not. They would move, but it took a bit of effort. So I sprayed some WD-40 on them hoping to lube them up a bit. It didn't really work all that well.
I reassembled them, then put some grease on the shaft of them to see if the grease would move w the ports. Then I took her for a drive. Maybe 8 blocks, hitting higher RPMs for a good while when it was warmed up all the way. Then got home + popped the hood.
Nothing. The grease didn't move at all. I also remember that when I was trying to move the ports by hand (the part that the shaft connected to) + nothing would happen. Should I be able to move them by hand? How can I get them unstuck? After some searching, I think that my air pump may be shot as well. How can I test that?
I took the intake manifolds off, cleaned the carbon from the valves, stuck them back in, replaced teh vacuum lines on the car, replaced the fuel rail, and a few other things. Might as well do it right the first time and cry once.
PB blaster will be more effective in freeing up your actuators than WD-40. Use WD for what it was intended, displacing water.
I'd follow dazed01's advice. Get yourself a set of intake manifold gaskets, some high quality vacuum line and a new pulsation dampener (they are prone to leaking on the S4 models). You should also consider having your injectors cleaned and flow-tested at an outfit such as witchhunter.
If you're strapped for cash you should be able to get away with just buying a LIM and MIM gasket. The P.D. should be given serious consideration IMO.
The actuators start to open at 1.2psi and fully at 2.1 psi. If the car is S4 then they run from the ACV on exhaust gas pressure. If S5 they obtain the pressure from the Air pump.
More then likely the sleeves inside the manifold are crusty dirty and frozen. After the actuators are removed they pull straight out of the manifold. Try a good pair of pliers.
More then likely the sleeves inside the manifold are crusty dirty and frozen. After the actuators are removed they pull straight out of the manifold. Try a good pair of pliers.
You have to remove the lower intake manifold to get access to the 5/6 port sleeves. If you try to force them open you'll be running the risk of damaging the actuating rods.
PB blaster will be more effective in freeing up your actuators than WD-40. Use WD for what it was intended, displacing water.
I'd follow dazed01's advice. Get yourself a set of intake manifold gaskets, some high quality vacuum line and a new pulsation dampener (they are prone to leaking on the S4 models). You should also consider having your injectors cleaned and flow-tested at an outfit such as witchhunter.
If you're strapped for cash you should be able to get away with just buying a LIM and MIM gasket. The P.D. should be given serious consideration IMO.
PB blaster will be more effective in freeing up your actuators than WD-40. Use WD for what it was intended, displacing water.
I'd follow dazed01's advice. Get yourself a set of intake manifold gaskets, some high quality vacuum line and a new pulsation dampener (they are prone to leaking on the S4 models). You should also consider having your injectors cleaned and flow-tested at an outfit such as witchhunter.
If you're strapped for cash you should be able to get away with just buying a LIM and MIM gasket. The P.D. should be given serious consideration IMO.
I had my injectors done by witchhunter a few years back. I actually live close to him. He's a very nice guy + does great work.
I'm hitting the track hopefully on the 7th. I'm just trying to figure out if this is something that I can do before then (without spending a ton of money too) or if I should skip it for a while.
The actuators start to open at 1.2psi and fully at 2.1 psi. If the car is S4 then they run from the ACV on exhaust gas pressure. If S5 they obtain the pressure from the Air pump.
More then likely the sleeves inside the manifold are crusty dirty and frozen. After the actuators are removed they pull straight out of the manifold. Try a good pair of pliers.
More then likely the sleeves inside the manifold are crusty dirty and frozen. After the actuators are removed they pull straight out of the manifold. Try a good pair of pliers.
Wait, so they don't rotate? It's a 91, so the air pump is doing all of the work to open them. I didn't try to force them open for fear of ruining something. So can I pull/rotate them open after taking off the actuators or not?
Trending Topics

And here is the runner from side

The sleeve that inserts is a round cylinder that has a bar across the outside and a hole cut at the top of other end. The actuator has a like armature that rotates grabbing the bar on the sleeve. The sleeve could rotate infinitely if it was not attached to the actuator. As pressure rises the sleeve is rotated further.
Some times they can become frozen and a few light taps with a ball ping hammer on the actuator can open then. I would suggest Ting a vacuum line to them and use a vac pump and see if they open. If not a few taps if still not they are to stuck and you will need to tear them down.
Ah-hah. So I think I'm using the wrong terms for parts.
I put grease on the parts attached with two nuts + that have the vacuum line on them. Those moved when I took them off. But the part that they were attached to wouldn't move at all.
Thanks for the help so far everyone. I'm reading my Haynes manual as we speak as well.
I put grease on the parts attached with two nuts + that have the vacuum line on them. Those moved when I took them off. But the part that they were attached to wouldn't move at all.
Thanks for the help so far everyone. I'm reading my Haynes manual as we speak as well.
Ah-hah. So I think I'm using the wrong terms for parts.
I put grease on the parts attached with two nuts + that have the vacuum line on them. Those moved when I took them off. Those are the actuators
But the part that they were attached to wouldn't move at all. These are the actuator rods which are attached to the sleeves via the LIM.
Thanks for the help so far everyone. I'm reading my Haynes manual as we speak as well.
I put grease on the parts attached with two nuts + that have the vacuum line on them. Those moved when I took them off. Those are the actuators
But the part that they were attached to wouldn't move at all. These are the actuator rods which are attached to the sleeves via the LIM.
Thanks for the help so far everyone. I'm reading my Haynes manual as we speak as well.
Ah-hah. So I think I'm using the wrong terms for parts.
I put grease on the parts attached with two nuts + that have the vacuum line on them. Those moved when I took them off. But the part that they were attached to wouldn't move at all.
Thanks for the help so far everyone. I'm reading my Haynes manual as we speak as well.
I put grease on the parts attached with two nuts + that have the vacuum line on them. Those moved when I took them off. But the part that they were attached to wouldn't move at all.
Thanks for the help so far everyone. I'm reading my Haynes manual as we speak as well.
So your actuators are jammed. This happens often. If you are hitting the track and want your six ports, remove the actuators (The 2 things with the vaccums on them) and jam your six ports open. Your 6-port sleeves should move freely. You'll have the top end yu are supposed to have but shitty low end torque....but who cares, its for the track. As for the actuators, I am sur you can find a pair for cheap here on the forum. Replace them and you will be good to go.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,745
Likes: 0
From: North Bay, Ontario
No, his 5,6 port sleeves are jammed, the actuators he said are moving fine. I'd just do it, if you're going to be racing you may as well have everything working as it should, if you get all the gaskets that you need, it shouldn't take more than an afternoon.
ahhh this sucks. i got the same problem. my actuators work fine but i cant move the sleeves from outside the iron where they are inserted. i should be able to right?
i figure i should be able to move the 6pi sleeves with my fingers because i can move the vdi sleeve with my fingers.
incubuseva, let me know how you get your sleeves free. id like to just hit em with the hammer but taking off the manifold sounds like a good idea too. i could clean them and add the pineapple racing 6pi inserts. 9HP!!!!! hahahaha
i figure i should be able to move the 6pi sleeves with my fingers because i can move the vdi sleeve with my fingers.
incubuseva, let me know how you get your sleeves free. id like to just hit em with the hammer but taking off the manifold sounds like a good idea too. i could clean them and add the pineapple racing 6pi inserts. 9HP!!!!! hahahaha
Last edited by btbaus; Feb 24, 2009 at 12:52 PM. Reason: reply to incubuseva
Okay, I took some pictures to further illustrate my point:
Sorry for the blurry pics, I couldn't get my camera for focus.

^This is a shot looking at the end of actuator rod as it sits in the LIM

Part of the actuator rod is a spring so it move with the vibration of the motor, obviously attempting to force open the sleeve is a bad idea since you can easily damage the spring.

Sleeve closed

Sleeve open

Sleeve closed

Sleeve open

This is what you'll be looking at when you take off the LIM. The sleeve pulls straight out and will likely require a bit of persuasion with a pair of pliers to remove it.
Hope this clears things up for you.
Sorry for the blurry pics, I couldn't get my camera for focus.

^This is a shot looking at the end of actuator rod as it sits in the LIM

Part of the actuator rod is a spring so it move with the vibration of the motor, obviously attempting to force open the sleeve is a bad idea since you can easily damage the spring.

Sleeve closed

Sleeve open

Sleeve closed

Sleeve open

This is what you'll be looking at when you take off the LIM. The sleeve pulls straight out and will likely require a bit of persuasion with a pair of pliers to remove it.
Hope this clears things up for you.
Hecebus, you rule!
Those pics helped quite a bit. I basically understood how they worked, but seeing them work is 2937934753750837458937x better for me.
Can you take them out with the engine still in?
Those pics helped quite a bit. I basically understood how they worked, but seeing them work is 2937934753750837458937x better for me.
Can you take them out with the engine still in?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



