Gopher383

I want to build an FC with atleast 450 whp. What Should I do to reach my goal, I dont want to spend over $8,000 on a motor, intercooler, down pipe, and turbo. Im not worried about the suspension just yet. Any advice will be helpful.

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

streetport, haltech, decent sized turbo with all the supporting mods to go along with it, this has been coved alot so do a quick search it should come up with alot of good info

fcforlife

iTrader: (9)

i heard the beginner driver sticker is about 20hp right there. haha nah but what rx7boy said is right. and by other supporting mods he is referring to (i think) the fuel system bigger injectors. better fpr(fuel pressure regulator) upgraded fuel pump to name a few. and with a haltech you can make a real intake system. look at my thread for some of my plans for my build. although i am going to be spending a lot of money i got about 700-900 dollars in mine. (although mine is a conversion also which does cost more.) but my list of mods should be a good list for you to go off of. and don't mind the sleepy eyes i went retarded for about a month. after that i never had them that way again haha.

need RX7

iTrader: (4)

I'd suggest a GT35R for your build. A-Spec Tuning (they're a vendor here, check them out) sells a really good GT35R kit.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If you are capable of doing the work yourself, and have experience in these things with the necessary equipment to fabricate, I think you could probably pull it off for $8000. However, since you are asking this question, I don't believe that any of those things are true.

The GT35R as suggested isn't enough turbo for this, in my opinion. 450HP is going to require nearly 20 PSI, which is at the limit of what you can do reliably on pump gas.

The 4088R or similarly sized (TO4R, etc.) will be a better choice as it will have no problem putting down 450 HP at around 15-16 PSI if the car is tuned properly.

A street port means that you'll get a bit of lag on any of these larger turbos. A bridgeport removes the lag but gives you a car that is harder to tune, eats fuel and doesn't make the best daily driver. In most cases I would suggest going with a "healthy" street port.

The rest is standard stuff. Standalone, big FMIC, 1000CC primaries, 1600CC secondaries, big fuel pump, etc. A bit of research by searching the forums will give you some ideas of what others are doing.

Tuning is a rather big deal. If you've never tuned before, figure that you will go through a few engines to get at your goal. "Rent a tuner" is an option but it is impossible for any one to tune all aspects of a car in an afternoon.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

you probably don't need 1000cc primary's.

ain't that the truth. professional tuners will get the car driving ok and safely but optimal driveability (IAT correction map, cold start map, tip-in fuel, cranking timing, blah blah blah) just takes hours and hours to get perfect for each engine.

Gopher383

Will the GT35R fit on an FC TII?

need RX7

iTrader: (4)

Physically? yes. But it requires a custom manifold, custom oil and coolant plumbing and external wastegates and all that jazz. Go take a look at the single turbo section to see what you're working with.

asiandude15

iTrader: (6)

That isn't you only turbo option, I've read on this forum one time or another that Holset Turbos are very cost effective and are capable of what you are trying to get at. The hx40 I believe is capable of 400+hp
(correct me if I am wrong). Do research on here it really helps... Even though from time to time I do post dumb questions. LOL Also go to the for sale section, alot of stuff can be had for very good prices if you take the time to look... Good luck

wackaloo13

iTrader: (3)

3399 - GT 35 turbo kit from aspec
1000 - rebuild kit (do labor yourself) you did not mention the compression on your motor but if it is bad i would budget in a bit more money here just in case you have to replace something major like a rotor housing
600 - street port.
800 - Haltech e6x used
100 - boost controller solenoid for haltech
100 - making the haltech harness not suck
200 - 1680 cc/min secondary injectors
200 - 850 or 1000cc/min primary injectors (not necessary if you have methanol injection)
450 - redoing all your fuel lines, new fpr
200 - fuel pump
200 - ebay fmic
200 - ebay piping kit with T-Bolt clamps
100 - compression tube
200 - relocate battery
200 - radiator
500 - water injection or methanol injection
100 - used bov
100 - good plug wires
50 - new plugs
1000 - decent tune
100 - water temp and oil temp gauge. probably should get boost and egt as well
50 - air filter
------------
9849

I consider this to be more or less the bare minimum here. You can go with a non ball bearing turbo if you feel like being cheap. I would not start a project unless you have 10k. You are just asking to go over budget. Thats when these things get partted out and never finished. The above quote also assumes you do all the work yourself and you do not have to buy any tools. If you need to rent or buy tools figure on 200 on an engine hoist, 80 on a floor jack and 35 on the socket to get the flywheel nut off.

Best of luck to you

Furb

iTrader: (2)

then my friend... you should keep dreaming!

and you cant do **** with 450hp without proper suspension, you'll just end up killing yourself and the car!

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

Very True!

Gopher383

The suspension wont be a problem, Im a break, suspension, tire mechanic.

Furb

iTrader: (2)

still, you need the cash to do it and i advise you to tackle that first!

Apex944

iTrader: (10)

They aren't talking about stock suspension....
Stock suspension sucks ***, period. It's over 20 years old and 90% of it is original and worn out.


As everyone else is saying, it will easily cost more than $8,000 to get that 450 hp that your wanting.
Just for an idea here is where im at-

Engine rebuilt with new rotor housings and all of the seals and gaskets that can be found in a 13BT. Everything else was re-used.
turblown.net engine studs
pineapple HD water seals
baffle plate
banzai oil pan brace
ACT streetlight flywheel
new waterpump
new oil pump chain and front roller bearings for e-shaft
new flywheel nut and main hub bolt
new oil pickup tube
MMR motor mounts
Blockoff plates
OMP removed
$3,000 in parts alone as I built it myself

ACT HD clutch disc- $100

BNR stage 2 turbo- $650 ish
Gaskets to install the turbo- $90 ish

Intake- $45
Gutted and quick fabbed exhaust- $200

RB FCD- $45

New front disc's, pads, SS lines, reman calipers - $300 ish
Radiator hoses, new engine sensors, switches- $150 ish

Rtek 1.7 N332 ECU- $120 and still need the injectors to run it

Tires- $300

Other misc parts that aren't necessary to reach my 300 rwhp goal is somewhere around $2,000 ish


I'm sure I forgot a bunch of parts but that is the majority of my parts list for the moment which doesn't include shipping and taxes.

As you can see that's around $5,000 or so and I still don't have injectors, still using the stock top mount intercooler, stock radiator fan setup, stock ignition system, as well as I am still using alot of stock parts. From the transmission back is completely original.

From your few posts it seems you haven't done much, if any, major engine work such as is needed for what your wanting.
Your wanting a full turbo setup, will need some sort of standalone ECU setup to run it, need a full engine rebuild that will last longer than 10k miles, as well as many other parts that will just plain need to be replaced.

Fully research your car and the parts your wanting to use and calculate shipping costs, tax, and the eventual normal wear items that you will need to replace along the way and you will easily surpass the $8,000 mark.

OutCold

How much Nm or ftlbs would a 450 hp 13b Turbo engine aprox. pull?

Furb

iTrader: (2)

all depends on what ports, size turbo en how much boost...

ITSWILL

iTrader: (12)

Oh man I feel a little sick when I think about how much I have spent on my car.

I hate to say it, but cramming an ls engine in there probably would have been more cost effective.

F that though, I have other cars with V8s and there is nothing like that high revving turbo rotary.

Figure on $15,000 dollars to be safe, the guy who came up with $9,8XX forgot to mention a clutch which would be $400-500, plus he assumed you got things used and did the bare minimum.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

This question leads me to believe that you intend to pay someone else for the work. $8000 in that case won't be enough. You'll probably get by with that much in parts, but labor is going to be another $1000 at least.

The thing of it is this: making HP on a smaller displacement engine is just more expensive then doing it on a large displacement one. Then again, how much does it cost to make an old 140HP 5 litre into a 450HP engine? Quite a lot as almost everything has to go aftermarket.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

you don't need to spend $8,000 on the motor itself. a reman can do 450 if you cracked it open and fixed the builder's screwups. You can do 450 on stock ports if you are willing to live with some lag.

I would budget $12k to do it right after all the random **** starts adding up.

Gopher383

I know that a FMIC is alot better for power, but how numbers can you squeeze out of a TMIC?

solareon

iTrader: (1)

If you run with the TMIC you will need Aux Injection to even stand a chance against detonation at those power levels. The cost of the FMIC will be tiny compared to the rest of the money you are spending.

Cutting corners before you even start a build is a good way to end up 75% finished and then either parting out or selling the whole lot.

cheesebox

May he wants to go tmic for other reasons, road racing etc, though with goals of 450hp thats unlikely

NOPR

if you're asking questions like will a gt35r fit on an FC, then it sounds like you're in over your head.

you'd be much better off buying an already modded car since they always sell for way less than has been put into them (WAY LESS). for instance, you buy a car like mine (which just so happens to be for sale) for 5000-7000, buy a slightly bigger turbo, and get it retuned. A little modification might be needed for the intercooler pipe to the turbo or the downpipe, but the overall cost would probably be 1000-2500. It would also be quicker.

this also leads me to another question: why do you want 450rwhp? thats some serious power for a light car like an FC. have you ever even driven a 250rwhp FC? or a 300rwhp FC? 450rwhp is A LOT. It's also quite easy to wreck a car like an FC with 450rwhp if you dont know what you're doing.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

This guy brings up some valid points, if I were you I would ditch all your hopes and dreams and get into Karting....