450+rwhp FC Transmission Options
450+rwhp FC Transmission Options
So.. I've been stumped trying to figure out how to cost-effectively modify the stock FC transmission to handle bigger numbers on the street.
My transmission feels so sloppy and ready to die even at 11 psi, and when I start pushing near 20 psi I'm worried that it's going to go to hell. I already have synchro problems and I need to get this worked out quickly. However, I am afraid to contact a local transmission shop because I don't trust hickass money mongers.
Has any body done anything to their transmission, short of a full-out race transmission, that can offer the sort of head room I'm looking for? I was considering undertaking a project to mate a T56 with an FC bellhousing and do that--seeing as I'll never hit the sort of torque an LS1 would produce--and see what that leaves me with, but I know there are bigger problems associated with that idea than just the bellhousing, heh.
Ideas, my friends?
-Mark
My transmission feels so sloppy and ready to die even at 11 psi, and when I start pushing near 20 psi I'm worried that it's going to go to hell. I already have synchro problems and I need to get this worked out quickly. However, I am afraid to contact a local transmission shop because I don't trust hickass money mongers.
Has any body done anything to their transmission, short of a full-out race transmission, that can offer the sort of head room I'm looking for? I was considering undertaking a project to mate a T56 with an FC bellhousing and do that--seeing as I'll never hit the sort of torque an LS1 would produce--and see what that leaves me with, but I know there are bigger problems associated with that idea than just the bellhousing, heh.
Ideas, my friends?
-Mark
I have no doubt that the transmission can hold up for a track day every once in a while.. but the problem is, I street drive.
I suppose I should just try rebuilding it, maybe reinforcing a few gears. I just don't want to drop big money on rebuilding it only to have to sell it because it can't hold the power.
I suppose I should just try rebuilding it, maybe reinforcing a few gears. I just don't want to drop big money on rebuilding it only to have to sell it because it can't hold the power.
It really depends on the tires more. Any stock transmission will be more than capable of delivering the power it takes to break stock-ish tires loose in any gear. Just get it rebuilt. Torque and abuse break transmissions, not HP. The worst that you are gona do is tear up the synchros or the clutch, I doubt the metal parts of the transmission are in much danger though.
Originally Posted by Slammedblk7
I think its your trans that is the weak point. I'd suggest getting it rebuilt, they are plenty strong. I've been driving my stocker for the past 3 years and no problem.
I've already contacted a few shops about rebuilding it, so I've decided to ditch any crazy ideas I had modifying beefier transmissions to fit a 13B.
Thanks for the input, guys.
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Yeah, a local shop here where I live said they could rebuild it with new syncros for $575 with the trans already off. I recently raced my friend's FC 380rwhp) and did 8k launches at 5psi all nite long.
I recently took my fc trans apart due to poor shift quality and some grinding. The trans had 130k miles on it, and when I got it all apart, the 2nd gear teeth were all chewed up. If the gears are damaged in your trans you're screwed because mazda no longer makes the gears, and I tried to find them aftermarket with no luck. So although the synchros due fail, keep this in mind because I have heard of others also finding the gears tore up. I ended up buying a low mileage trans from a friend of mine as the best solution, so just a FYi. good luck
Originally Posted by RETed
If you figure this out, I'd like to know too...
-Ted
-Ted
Cheers.
I can give you some advice, but it's not cheap.
Get a carbon clutch.
The carbon clutch allows for a more progressive engagement of the torque from the engine to the transmission.
This minimizes the shock from big power engines.
But, as the carbon clutch starts to slip, it starts to grip even more.
More slip, more heat, more grip...
Unlike copper puck clutches which grab almost instantly, the carbon clutch has a "softer" engagement which helps transmission and drivetrain life.
The downside?
You guessed it...these carbon clutches are NOT cheap.
-Ted
Get a carbon clutch.
The carbon clutch allows for a more progressive engagement of the torque from the engine to the transmission.
This minimizes the shock from big power engines.
But, as the carbon clutch starts to slip, it starts to grip even more.
More slip, more heat, more grip...
Unlike copper puck clutches which grab almost instantly, the carbon clutch has a "softer" engagement which helps transmission and drivetrain life.
The downside?
You guessed it...these carbon clutches are NOT cheap.
-Ted
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> Since we're on the topic ot tranny's for higher output motors. What other transmissions out there can fit on TII's once you start to hit those power levels?
what about supraTT trannies? im sure they dont EASILY go on, but i dont think its a whole lot of modification to make it work. ive heard good things about them, but never looked at it enough to hold a strong opinion.
Originally Posted by RETed
None of those options are bolt-on swaps.
They need custom bell housings are a LOT of fitting and fabrication work.
Those "race" transmissions are not recommended for street driving.
-Ted
They need custom bell housings are a LOT of fitting and fabrication work.
Those "race" transmissions are not recommended for street driving.
-Ted
I think it was an Australian company...
And if HKS makes two different transmissions designed for the FC (among other cars), why wouldn't they be bolt-on? (just wondering)
Originally Posted by j200pruf
If you really want a different tranny just go with a T5. Kennedy Engineering makes the adaptors, and quite a few people have done this swap before.
MAZDA ROTARY TO BORG WARNER T-5
KEP # 9000 Adapter kit fits most manual shift '74+ Mazda Rotary removable 6” long bellhousings to the Borg-Warner T-5 transmission (from the Ford Mustang GT '85+). The Mazda flywheel, clutch, starter and throwout bearing are retained. A Ford disc must be used. The T-5 transmission that is normally slanted 18º must now be mounted vertical.
Kit includes adapter plate, bolts, pilot bearing and instructions.
KEP # 9000 Adapter kit fits most manual shift '74+ Mazda Rotary removable 6” long bellhousings to the Borg-Warner T-5 transmission (from the Ford Mustang GT '85+). The Mazda flywheel, clutch, starter and throwout bearing are retained. A Ford disc must be used. The T-5 transmission that is normally slanted 18º must now be mounted vertical.
Kit includes adapter plate, bolts, pilot bearing and instructions.
Originally Posted by Valkyrie
IIRC one of the companies that makes (supposedly) bolt-on FC turbo trannies (bolt on as far as the bell housing and mounts are concerned, I assume) says their ratios are suitable for all types of driving (drag, circuit, and street)... the ratios didn't seem that extreme to me (although whether or not they're suitable for highway driving probably depends on ring and pinion)...they just followed the torque band's spread all the way through (no severe drops like the stock ratios).
I think it was an Australian company...
I think it was an Australian company...
There's been threads on this "conversion".
It breaks the transmission case.
And if HKS makes two different transmissions designed for the FC (among other cars), why wouldn't they be bolt-on? (just wondering)
I believe the OP was asking for something more...economical.
BTW, those Ford T5's don't handle over 500 lb-ft of torque very well.
Unless I'm missing something?
Remember, that's rated at the flywheel, so torque at the rear wheels is lower rated.
-Ted
what about Hi RPm use?
I was talkin to a guy who drag races a fd and he was telling me that the Mazda 5spd doesnt like to shift smooth at 10k+ rpm
I ask this cause my goal is 4oo+ monkeypower with super hi rpm capability
I was talkin to a guy who drag races a fd and he was telling me that the Mazda 5spd doesnt like to shift smooth at 10k+ rpm
I ask this cause my goal is 4oo+ monkeypower with super hi rpm capability
Originally Posted by RETed
The GURU dog gear retrofit?
There's been threads on this "conversion".
It breaks the transmission case.
Sure, if you're willing to pay around $10k to stuff that transmission into your FC, go for it.
I believe the OP was asking for something more...economical.
BTW, those Ford T5's don't handle over 500 lb-ft of torque very well.
Unless I'm missing something?
Remember, that's rated at the flywheel, so torque at the rear wheels is lower rated.
-Ted
There's been threads on this "conversion".
It breaks the transmission case.
Sure, if you're willing to pay around $10k to stuff that transmission into your FC, go for it.
I believe the OP was asking for something more...economical.
BTW, those Ford T5's don't handle over 500 lb-ft of torque very well.
Unless I'm missing something?
Remember, that's rated at the flywheel, so torque at the rear wheels is lower rated.
-Ted
The T5 can be built to handle a lot of power, but you are right, its very very difficult to make a T5 handle 500 lb/ft or torque. I have seen T5's advertised to take 500hp/tq, but that seems to be the upper limit. They are cheaper than a built T56 though.
BC
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