satch

iTrader: (1)

It should, but it would run rather poorly. Make sure the leading coil is bolted to the fender properly as the igniter is grounded via this manner. Make sure the B/Y wire has voltage w/key to on at the two wire White plug found at the leading coil.

And you do not have to pull plugs to check for spark. Pull the plug wire off of the bore and rest the plug wire just against the bore and turn the engine over and watch for spark flashes.

FB331

Yes that sounds like a good method especially since u physically can see spark I was insured the inline spark checkers works as well. Does a coil or ignitor start to go bad and then fail or do they just die

satch

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't know. The Green/Yellow wire at the leading coil White plug will go back and forth from 0 volts to 5 volts w/key to on as the main pulley is rotated which can be done simply by turning the alternator pulley. The voltage will stay at one value for most of the pulley rotating and then flash the other value briefly and so on over and over. If this occurs and the B/Y wire has voltage w/key to on and the igniter is grounded against the fender wall then the coil bore should flash when the presence of spark is tested for. If it does this then the plug wires and associated plugs are the only things which could be problematic.

grantm3

iTrader: (3)

is that an app?

FB331

If I have the fuel injection fuse in the engine bay out (40amp) will this cause no spark.
The question being would that cause no spark because ive checked for spark using three did methods and got nothing on leading and trailing.
I'll check the fuses in the cabin to see if any of those are blown. And if not I have a spare leading and trailing coils that I will try.

FB331

Just did a quick search and it would prolly help if I had that fuse in lol.
Satch I must have seen your name in every no spark thread lol so thxs for help so far.
And is that bac valve pic for me ?????? And I have no clue if that is an app cause I would prolly download that ****.

FB331

Another thought I had is that it's severely flooded so I am going to try a push start for shots and jiggles

FB331

ATF, cleaNed plugs, put in fuel cut switch, a little push to start and it's running like a champ except for the idle. When I am in neutral and rev up it idles down low and stutters and it's like it struggle on idle buy that is the only problem. Back to square one for me lol at least it starts when I want it too now

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

pull off the UIM, put new vac lines on everything ($15 tops in parts) and sweep the TPS (adjust into spec or buy one that can be adjusted into spec)

if it continues to flood you have a: TPS issue b: leaking injectors (very very common) or a combination of the two.

you should have the injectors rebuild anyway, they're 26yrs old. they've put their time in and need repair.

it will idle after these issues have been attended to


according to the pictures of your first FC, it looks like you need the driver mod...

FB331

Driver mod lol hhmmm that was a onetime mistake trust me everyone will eventually do something they regret but my fb is still kicking and it's been 4 yours. I have adjusted the tps but will try a more accurate method using the two lights and I guess send the injectors for cleaning and rebuilding hope that doesn't take long I want this girl on the road now! Haha just glad it's running

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

you need to adjust it with a voltmeter... it is the most accurate because it is the exact signal that the ECU see's to calculate the engines load...

FB331

k so i couldnt get it started again and it was a broken water thermo sensor so i replaced that and it was flooded so i ook out the leading plugs and turned it obver and video taped it after that it started fine so i continued to adjust tps and idle thinking i got it until i went for a test drive and it was bucking like a **** and it did not do thjis when i first drove it and every other time since leading me to believe i fucked the tps setting or its possibly bad buit im unsure. i tried reading voltage at the green 3 pin connecter and got no voltage on either side?? resistance is weird cause i can unscrew it to two and the have a whole lot of room to s crew it in were it will read 1k. i took some vids to see if anyone has an idea because ive read alot about tps being out of adjustment causing this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hjp8DRbPhkk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmKY4yeZiJ4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQhjJcu3kiE

satch

iTrader: (1)

When adjusting the TPS voltage on the Green/Red wire the key must be in the on position. When using the ohm method the TPS plug needs to be unplugged. And of course you never read for ohms w/the key to on.

And the timing advances above 1100 rpm or so, thus the idle speed needs to be lowered before the TPS can be adjusted properly. So the idle speed needs to be below 1100 rpm before adjustment.

FB331

Awesome news. switched TPS's. And wammy
Thxs to satch I re followed TPS setting instructions ( I forgot to have the key to on for the voltage way) and with these led lights I used which were very bright and blue with no mistake of seeing them I set it so only one light came on and no move advances in idle or driving so that means no more bucking.
And btw I set the TPS after I got the idle down and re did it a few times after fiddling with air adjust screw.
I grabbed two TPS sensors at the wreckers while I was grabbing another rb downpipe and presilencer in good condition as well as a leather seat with two seat handles for more adjustability but I took the seat rail off thinking it would be cheaper ( wrong) and then realized my seat rail didn't work with that second function and I missed out on KGB adjustable suspension with rb springs while I waited till the next day to go back
But the car seems to be fine aside from being a bit loud and kinda popping