Mobius

Easy as cake:

Your header is creme.

This is probably one of the easiest things you will ever do upon this harpy car.

Let's see! You're going to have a heat-shield that entirely "boxes" your only exhaust pipeline (if it's even still there, the “box” that is)

It’s like a tin can that encapsulates your actual exhaust manifold. Count on every screw you turn in this "box" area snapping.

Now, a Racing Beat down-pipe to this DEMON requires no such heat shield. I Highly recommend it under the correct circumstances.

A Racing Beat down pipe and Racing Beat cat-back is well…. you can’t go wrong with this.
A motherfucking improvement, to say the very least.

I'd say for N/A 13 B motors you add another 20-30 HP.

You'd be surprised at what this acutally does,

An ideal FC should sit around anywhere from 225 to 300 HP.

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

Are you sure you have good compression? Sounds like its dumping fuel and misfiring dumping it into the cat.

FB331

No I haven't personally checked for compression but I can get it running but it just wants to die. I didn't think compression was the problem here I will put up a video of it running and it does sound strong. I have seen videos of 1 rotor running as oppose to two so I'm not really leaning I that direction.

Btw the owner i bought it from had it compression tested at the local rotary shop and if they didn't say a rebuild well that says a lot as its usually the first choice from them

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

Overly rich mixture at startup + exhaust leaks = white smoke from cat. I wouldn't be too worried about your cat becoming clogged so soon after having it running. You're giving it lots of throttle to keep it going? You can try disconnecting the TPS so it'll take one variable out of the equation. I'd try playing with the BAC, Air Adjust Screw, variable resistor. I know it's not the precise advice you want when it's cold out, but you need to get it idling then get it warm, then set everything correctly.

And if you're having trouble starting it again, don't forget the unflood procedure by pulling the EGI fuse, cranking and replacing the fuse.

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

Post a video of how it runs man, that'll give us a better idea of what its doing.

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

+1


I had cold weather flooding problems with my 7 untill i followed the fsm on adjusting the cold start ilde cam. mine was way out causing a high idle and a no start when hot.

FB331

Sorry guys couldn't get a vid today was -20 c and my bro unplugged it before he left back to British Columbia this morning so i will bring in battery and charge all night and leave plugged in and try again in the morning it's suppose to be 2 c so quite a bit warmer.

Thxs for all the help guys I appreciate it especially all the response lately seeing as my other seven is being investigated and I have a rental car now so I really want this seven running.

So just some facts I had TPS set last time car was warmed up so I don't think that is the problem. Variable resistor is set in the middle and so is air adjust screw so I think that's all good for a start up I think but when it does it will only run with throttle and basically a little smoke out of the exhaust and prolly just as much coming from the cats into engin bay. It doesn't lookalike there are any holes so I think it's clogged I bought a used rb downpipe and presilencer for 160 with gaskets and hopefully that will help and even if it doesn't the rx7 specialties shop said they buy cats back to so up to around 80 bucks for them no matter what the condition.

I was thinking that the clogged cat possibly was causing bad idle I originally had? Anyone thoughts on that guys??

Mobius

My experience with clogged cats is that it generally tends not mess with idle. It’s under load or acceleration that you notice a significant downgrade in horse power.

But nothing surprises me with an FC. So maybe.

You have a cold start assist system that runs coolant through the upper and lower intake manifold (if memory serves) This tells the fuel injectors what to do by fuel meassure (how much fuel to atomize/supply/what have you) at ambient temperatures or the temperature of the coolant. Unfortunately, I know very little about this system.

With that being said; I know that the FC or any fuel injected car of this age can have leaky injectors. Your fuel system is always pressurized, that's why you have to prime the system anytime you interrupt its pressurized scheme. With the FC, you have four injectors. Two primaries that are always active and Two Secondary’s that open up after a prescribed RPM range.

You could have a compounding problem.

So:

Your primary injectors might be leaking/malfunctioning.

Your cold start assist might be malfunctioning.

Both malfunctions might be happening at the same time.

ThePunishedRx7

Driver side handles are always broken! DX lol

FB331

So today I pulled off the cats and got the rb d/p and presilencer on there with new gaskets and will tighten it up tomorrow.

So I went to start it with no exhaust hooked up at the manifold just to see if it would start and it sounded like it was going to but I heard a few very loud bangs and I didn't want to **** **** up so I stopped and decided I would try and start it with the exhaust fully hooked up tomorrow.
Are those bangs normal with no exhaust I have never disconnected it before so I wasn't sure I looked on your tube but there wasn't much.

I'll put up a video tomorrow of it hopefully this fixes some problems and if not its a nice upgrade for 160 - 80 for the exchange of the cats soon lol

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

check your compression before you keep buying stuff bro.

REAmemiya_fan

+1

I checked mine, but didn't get an even close result. 60psi. Problem was, battery was so discharged, it barely span the engine. Hell, the whole reason it wouldn't start was because the battery was almost dead. Charged it overnight, put it back in, started first try no problem.

SO, lesson is, when you check compression, make sure your battery is good.

FB331

Alright I have been buying stuff that I need for the car and in no way am I un satisfied with what I have purchased so far as no matter what i need that stuff anyway.

Finished the rb Dp presilencer install and am charging the battery for the compression test

If it fails compression or not Im still happy with the purchase

FB331

C3f5c955ADOEgsToPDskJf6GyAsqo83nMBhWhgASP8

FB331

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xksB...o83nMBhWhgASP8

FB331

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s46K0...o83nMBhWhgASP8

FB331

the first video is of both at the same time
the second was just the rear rotor
i tested just the front and got three strong whooshs and when i tested the rear i got two and a weak one .

guess i should source out a new engine now or rebuild.
im thinking a different engine will be cheaper than a rebuild

thxs all

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

My guess would be that you've created a massive vacuum leak somewhere between the inlet duct and the throttle body, and that's causing the starting issue. Nothing else you've changed should really have much to do with why it wouldn't start.

FB331

What about the compression?? Seems like that should cause my issues

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

unless you killed it since owning it, the problem wouldn't be new. Check all the voltages at the ecu. Very good place to start.

FB331

Ahh I see I just got my other car back with all my tools including my multimeter so I will do that tomorrow thxs the tip have u seen the vid of the rear rotor compression test I did

FB331

I just listened to the rear rotor vid again and it sounds good anyone want to chime in???

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

I don't like the sound of the rear rotor. The pulses are uneven, which is never a good thing. Can you rent a compression tester from an auto parts store up there?

FB331

Yea I will do that tomorrow just so I know for sure. When I test drove it the car ran pretty strong probably no different from my last one I had and before I had problems getting it started I had taken it around the ally fine them parked it and haven't had it running fully yet. Tried jumping it yesterday with a another battery and got a loud backfire out the back of the exhaust ( kinda a good thing before it sounded like it was backfiring around the cats) and it tried to start but just couldn't. Bought a spark plug checker to check spark on all my plugs so that I don't have to pull them off. Not a big fan of electricity lol. At the end of the rear rotor vid the battery was low as the car won't start so I have to keep charging it. Battery is good tho not a problem.

FB331

No leading spark? Would car start with just trailing spark??