4 to 5 lug conversion
You need to remove all 4 hubs. It's not too difficult at all. The only part that may be difficult is removing the axle nut on the rear hubs, and getting the hub off the halfshaft (sometimes they need a gear puller to get them off). If you're getting the 4-piston calipers as well, you need the brake booster and proportioning valve off of the donor car.
Front's, I think there the 2 bolts for the shock, one cotter pin and nut for the steering arm ball joint thingy, and one pinch bolt for the ball joint. And the brake line.
Rear, I think there's 1 bolt for the shock, and 2 more bolts at different spots where the hub connects to the rear control arm (aka trailing arm I think?), and then the brake line. Oh, and you have to get them off the axles.
If you jack up your car and remove a wheel, it should be pretty obvious what all you have to remove to get the hubs off.
Front's, I think there the 2 bolts for the shock, one cotter pin and nut for the steering arm ball joint thingy, and one pinch bolt for the ball joint. And the brake line.
Rear, I think there's 1 bolt for the shock, and 2 more bolts at different spots where the hub connects to the rear control arm (aka trailing arm I think?), and then the brake line. Oh, and you have to get them off the axles.
If you jack up your car and remove a wheel, it should be pretty obvious what all you have to remove to get the hubs off.
It's simple if you have the whole other car, if not, you'll have to go junk looking. For the front you need the hub, rotor, wheel studs, caliper, pads, bearings (which I suggest to buy new), those little fancy W springs, and don't forget the metal line that goes from the strut to the caliper. For the rear you'll need the hub, rotor, wheel studs, caliper, caliper mounting bracket, pads, and bearings (as said before). Now, if you get a car that has the vented rear rotors, I suggest also getting the master cylinder and proportioning valve. I used my stock SE one for a while, but they really firmed up after I put the other one on. If you really wanted to go all out you could swap the whole AAS, which isn't really that hard, but pointless if you're going with aftermarket suspension. You'll also need any bolts, nuts and washers that you take off. The front is self explanatory, very bolt on. A note of caution, do not destroy the dust covers taking them off, have patience. The rear, however, is a bit more tricky. I hate pulling hubs off of cars because it's so much work and I am lazy. What I did was unbolt the entire assembly from the 3-points that held it on. My 4-bolt was so crapped up on the spindle nuts that I have to cut the half-shafts in half to remove it, hopefully you won't have to do that. That's pretty much it. I don't know how much detail you really need, if you need any info, e-mail me dave@davescustomperformance.com and i'll help ya out. Oh yes, most importantly you will need rims to fit the 5 bolt, I know it sounds silly to say that, but I ran for a week on GM rims (1990 Pontiac Grand Prix 15", hell yeah!) while I got new tires for my RX. Hope this helps you out.
Wait a sec, why did you cut your halfshafts? Before I realized that it wouldn't be too hard to remove my hubs from the shaft, I had unbolted the assembly from the 3 points, unbolted the shaft from the differential, and I actually managed to pull the halfshaft through the control arm. It was hell, but I managed to get it out and back in that way. Then I learned that it was unnecessary.
Front end was very easy did it in my driveway with a few hand tools and a jack. For the rear I mad it easier on myself and put it up on a lift. I actually just used the whole rear from my parts car and subframe sind it was a gxl and had a posi that i wanted anyway. Some people will tell you that you do not need the brake bosster from your five lug donor car. don't listen to them better safe than sorry go with the larger 5lug booster. Oh yeah once you get it all done you'll realize how much the 4 lug brakes suck compared to the 5 lug 4 piston calipers
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The reason I cut my half shafts was because I was lazy and had another set readily avaliable. I was also already POed from trying to get that bolt that sits at an akward angle behind everything else (that describes most bolts in a 7) and wasn't wasting any more time trying to be gentle. It could have been pulled out through with some effort, or I could have even forced the spindle nut off. You have to admit though, taking an angle grinder to your car sometimes alleviates a lot of stress, especially when you know you're not really hurting it.
If I had replacements, I would've taken great joy in cutting the bitch up. I still don't know how I managed to get it out and back in again.
and yeah, everything's been covered, if all everyone used was the search button, then there would be no new posts. might as well make it a read-only board. If you don't want to answer a question, then don't answer it.
and yeah, everything's been covered, if all everyone used was the search button, then there would be no new posts. might as well make it a read-only board. If you don't want to answer a question, then don't answer it.
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