sonic, i just found this today:
its the color and other information on the mazda injectors--

84-85 13B NT low square center 680cc orange 195500-0900
86-87 13B NT low square center 460cc red 195500-1350
86-87 13B T low square center 550cc tan 195500-1370
88 13B NT high square offset 460cc purple 195500-1350
88 13b T high square offset 550cc purple 195500-1370
89-91 13B NT high oval center 460cc red 195500-2010
89-91 13B T high oval center 550cc purple 195500-2020

no green in sight
but anyways thats allright. Rotaryressurection.com/injector.html

it also says to splice at the injector lead. This is weird, I don't think the location of the resistor is the problem, but I don't know what else could be. I will try the relocation this week, but any other ideas of what else to check?

oh and since you all know a good amount about wiring...maybe someone can help on another thread i had...https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=292798

thanks

 

bump it up.

 

They don't seem to mention the green tops (which is what I have, strangely enough) However, I did look up the # online and they were 680's, now to find the link!

 

CRXtoRX7

How's it coming so far? I looked at your other thread and didn't really have any suggestions..

 

well, the problem is still here. I am going to do the relocation of the resistors on saturday, school and work are less enjoyable, but more required. I really don't think that the location would be causing it. I am going to try the injectors without any resistors first. Also I will try to figure out if the injectors are indeed low impedance. Then I will put them in by the ecu if all else fails. I set the tps back down to 1v, and nothing changed, still idles pretty much fine. I am trying to meditate on all the possible causes as this week passes. I just put my engine back together, so think of even the stupidest things such as a fuel line wrong (though thats pretty hard to do). I really think it is in the wiring. My only idea is that maybe my car is supposed to be low impedance...its an s4 jspec. The ecu says 87TII, but I don't know if its before the switch or after. I read there is a resistor pack under the intake side, I need to check on that. Anyways...thats my update. Wish me luck on having my car ready to tune. I am hoping for low 13's high 12's...or really good autox times once i get everything in order and tuned.

thanks,
Ben

 

Well that's cool.

I say one thing at a time with this one. I have some other ideas, so let me know when you run it without resistors...

I just don't want to confuse the issue with any unecessary directions, because I know that after a new motor install, trouble starts and all the sudden your mind can go off in a million different directions.

I haven't even fixed my cars problem yet, the other day when it lost the speedo and then spark.... I blew an EGI fuse...

So I'm taking my sweet time and meditating on it as well.

 

yeah I just got my new speedo cable yesterday, im about to go put that on. I don't even know how many miles i have on the rebuild, only guesses. I bought my cable off of ebay, its actually a few inches longer than stock, so its easier to put on. Ill let you know if i have any problems with it.

-Ben

 

Well, it would have quite the negative effect if your harness were already set up for low impedance injectors, and you wired in another set of resistors. Have you checked for the silver box bolted to the inner fender just under the airbox? If you don't have that silver box, then they should be high. The green top's are the same I have, low imp 680 injectors.

 

****, i have the silver box behind the headlight. that means i have low imp. that means my injectors are wired for high imp, that means i probably ruined something. ****...

 

Not sure but don't think you would have ruined anything. I think it would just act like any other malfunctioning injector...The only thing that would get ruined would be your performance.

 

Well, today I returned the wiring to stock. The results are: exact same problem still occurs. I tuned down the secondaries -15% then -22%, but no change at all. I just don't get it. I looked at the injectors, and they actually have orange tops, with lime green donuts tha go above the pintle caps. So I think I have low impedance 680's from the gsl-se. So i think i have the stock resistor box in the car, there is a silver box right behind the headlight, about 4 inches long and 2.5 inches front to back, and it wraps around this little metal box and some ceramic looking stuff. It has a plug or two coming out of the back. Am I right that this is the resistor box? alright well...i dont know what else to say...so...bump.

-Ben

 

If it's bolted to the front wall of the engine bay, right behind the headlight (standing STRAIGHT up), then no, this is the fuel pump's relay/etc. If it's bolted to the inner fender, about 4" behind the rail, near the strut tower, then that's the resistor box.

 

Ok, I was looking at the fuel pump relay. However, I have a box thats bolted on the pass. strut tower. It is about half the size of the fuel relay top to bottom. Would this be it? Its silver with a couple small ceramic things poping out a little. I think if someone had a picture, all of this confusion would end.

-Ben

 

Ask and ye shall receieve. It's circled in red in the picture

 

Ok, I do have it. Is there a way to check if the resistor is functioning properly?

 

FSM should have a guide on how to check it, just look for the 'solenoid resistor' I'll dig through in the meantime to find the page.

Scratch that, the online ones aren't for those models. Let me find the haynes manual instead.

 

Alright, according the the haynes manual, checking the two pins pictured above (with the arrows pointing to them) should yield 5-7 ohms.

 

thank you for all this help, my borrowed manual is loaned out to a friend right now. I will check the reading tomorrow.

 

Ok, I checked the reading with the car in the on position...I got nothing. All 0's. Am I doing something wrong, or what?

 

You have to unplug it and measure those two pins with it not being hooked up.

 

yeah i unplugged it, tried the two pins, then just for fun...tried a bunch of other pins...nothing.

 

Well then you've found your culprit. Replace it with a working unit and you should be good to go (you won't need to use resistors with your injectors now)

 

I am going to retest it tomorrow. I just want to make sure i tested the right stuff...try it with the car running etc. Otherwise I will make a trip to the junkyard this week. I know there were 6 s4's. Even a 88AE...though that wont have the resistor. I think there were some base 86's. Do the resistors differ from car? I would think it would be fine since all the injectors are interchangable between cars. Anyways, thanks for the help, I will be back with results later this week.

Ben

 

You should test it with the car off, just unplug that harness and test the resistor side of it, those two pins in the picture above should yield 5-7ohms of resistance, if not, that's probably why your injectors aren't firing.

 

wait how do you test resistance...i was testing for current...with a multimeter. I don't know much about electronics.