what would be the best setup for 300-350 hp at the fly wheel on a 87 > 87.5 TII that would keep it fairly relible (summer daily) for less than 5k with slightly moded internals (exhaust port+atkins rebuild).

 

Upgrade turbo - stock turbo can't really flow the airflow for that kinda power levels
Upgrade fuel pump
Bigger injectors - stock 4 x 550's max out right under 300bhp
Some way to control all of the fuel upgrades - S-AFC for budget / standalone EMS if you got the bucks


Rebuild the motor if you can afford it.
Rest of the nitty gritty details are on my website.


-Ted

 

A stocker should be able to support 350 at the fly no problem.

 

I dunno about 350 at the fly on the stock turbo... I managed 250rwhp on the stocker, and that should be about 300 flywheel. That's with a front mount and aggressive street port. You can be plenty reliable just on maxing out the stock turbo, and still make enough power to hang with the stock versions of most cars you see every day (like a C5)

 

I was referring to the stockport engine..

 

get a rtek 1.8 (and 4x720cc injectors), a walbro, a front mount IC, and a BNR stage 3 or 4 turbo, full ehxuast and an intake. maybe a better clutch?? then you should be fine

 

my thoughts were a full exhaust, intake, stronger clutch, t4/t3 setup(maifold, wastegate, etc...), FMIC w/ Greedy type r BOV, warbiro fuel pump, 550cc primairys and 720cc secondarys, adjustible FPR, and banjo bolt up-grade. how much psi at the motor would i have to run to get 300-350hp out of it?

Oh and PD delete and FCD.

 

Forget about the fcd and go with an rtek1.7 w/ safcII. Also I think a bnr turbo would be better for you if you are in a budget. I don't see anywere in your post anything about gauges. If you don't have any you should put some in while your at it, Stock ones suck and I don't think you want to blow your motor because you cant monitor it correctly.

 

yea i would defently want get gauges so i can monitor it and they look cool, is there and good/cheap ignition upgrades, and how hard is it to wire in a standalone, is there som e kind of place like painless that makes premade harnesses for the fc3s?

 

The Zeal Engineering Megasquirt is a good deal if you don't feel like messing with wiring. As for gauges, if you do go megasquirt, there is now a graphical display someone made as well as the text-based Megaview.

 

you don't even need a turbo upgrade for ~300 flywheel horsepower... so if that's all you really want, don't break the bank.

 

You really should not be messing with T3's unless we're talking about a GT35R.
The 13B is capable of spooling a full T4 turbine (P-trim) no problem.


-Ted

 

i currently have a 88 t2 fresh rebuild, by myself and some friends, with a moderate sized streetport, hks downpipe, full exhaust, ebay tid, safc2, and soon 4x 750cc injectors and an rtek 1.8. from what i can feel so far it seems that it will be easy to make 300 whp with this setup, but i am no tuner so i dont know for sure

 

does any one know of any other ignition mods?? i have some 10.3mm sparkplug wires on it now, is there anything else?

 

The stock ignition coils are very good, you probably don't need to upgrade them unless you're making serious power.

 

if you are getting breakup get an MSD 6A, otherwise ignition should be fine.

 

how much boost would i have to have to make the 300hp, 12psi? 15psi?

 

Depends on the turbo...

Repeat after me:
"Power is dependent on airflow NOT boost..."
"Power is dependent on airflow NOT boost..."


-Ted

 

would it be posible to keep to no more than 15psi so i dont end up blowing the motor to bits at 20k miles. one of the guys i know thats worked on rotary engines for years said that a 100% stock motor in a s4 Turbo (TII) can hold up to 17psi with out endangering the engine.

 

SUre go 15 or 20 or 30. Or get a big *** diesel turbo and go like 5psi and probably fling something. Pretty sure their telling you"stop talking about psi".

 

Danger does not have anything to do with boost level...to a point.
Please get it out of your head that you're limited to a certain boost level "cause it's dangerous".
Go talk to the all the water / methanol injection and ask them what kinda boost they are running on pump gas...you'll be amazed.

As a rule, keep the boost under 17 - 18psi for most 92 - 93 octane gas available in most parts of the country.
Keeping it under 15psi is a pretty good rule of thumb.

Go talk to JRat about how much boost you can run through a STOCK engine...

With that said, I think you should tell us what exactly you're trying to do?

Daily driver that is reliable?
How much money are you willing to spend?
Who is going to do all the work? You? A shop?

There are lots of options for you once we figure out where you're coming from...


-Ted

 

I made threads in both 2nd and 3rd gen forums not too long ago about how many people have ever blown their motor on race gas or pump + methanol. Practically nobody.

It's when you try to make serious power on pump gas that you really risk things. Of course, 300 flywheel horsepower is a little more than 250rwhp, and that can be done on pump gas. That can be done on a stock turbo with stock ports and a stock intercooler at around 12-13psi (granted, that is pushing it on the stock intercooler and it will heatseak quickly). A friend of mine (Smoken' on this forum) did it on his old Turbo II.

 

when i say "psi" i mean what a boost gauge would show.

my budget i think is going to be around 5k minus Rebuild and want to do as little engine managment wiring as posible...

I am doing all the work my slef but i do it a good friends house, he has a lift, all the toys, and a whole machine shop (boring over engines and other misc things), this is all private its not a comcial shop, and he has 3 86' N/As , one base, one 2+2, and one SE. the base is wikid, it has a full racing beat exhaust, hks intake, 10mm wires, full toiko suspention set up, and some other misc goodies. i am also helping him rebuild the motor out of the SE (parts car) to put in the 2+2.

when i say relible i mean starts every time, runs/drives good, and i dont have to tear it down every weekend to fix somthing.

 

LOL!! About 30 ish PSI before the dowel land will fail.... Course thats an S4 motor. Nothing like a failed wastegate to cause you problems..

I ran 20 ish psi regularly on my stocker, and it did make 437 HP, but when I cranked it up that high, I had race gas in the tank..

FYI, when it shot to 30 PSI, it had race gas in it, and the apex seals came out looking BRAND NEW! Gotta love high octane and alcohol!

 

ls1? Sorry, I had to. It won't happen again...