3 weeks. $2000. What to do?
#26
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
If you did the test right (take out only one spark plug, fully open the throttle), then yes.
If you leave the gauge's valve closed and it doesn't go up at all, it's say it's blown.
If you leave the gauge's valve closed and it doesn't go up at all, it's say it's blown.
#28
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take out both the spark plugs and listen when you crank it ... if you hear
hiss ..... hiss.. hiss.. and yes its blown .. if you hear hiss hiss hiss hiss hiss then you just compression tested it wrong. IF you leave the spark plug in for the one with low compression and you take the spark plug out of the one with compression and it still cranks SUPER easy like weeeeeeeeee haha no resistance then ya its blown.
And no its not weird to blow 1 rotor. My turbo motor blew one whole rotor, then I limped it all the way home on 1 rotor and it blew the other. (23 miles) haha...
Bye bye drifting. $2000 is going to rebuild/t2 swap. Sorry to sound like a a$$ but welcome to the rx7club.com.
I REALLY recommend finding a wrecked t2 and taking everything out of that. (find one with a running engine). Then while that lasts the last 30,000 miles of its life save up for a rebuild kit and such. You can even rebuild your blown NA if its not to bad. Then you can just slap the turbo on the NA since you will have the turbo ecu wiring and drive train. You will even have LSD and a more strong everything. ( I went through NA transmissions like butter, they are weak).
Do it right or do it twice. Don't give up on the 7. I feel for you now. You were right where I was when I first got my 7. I basically got tricked and I really didn't know anything about the 7s. The stock engine and tranny blew in the first month. After installing the new NA engine I blew the second tranny, and went turbo everything so that I would stop blowing na transmissions. Bought a wrecked t2 for like 1000 with a running engine, changed everything over, removed all the emissions and such and was a happy t2 camper. After learning a lot from the swaps and such, I found out I didn't learn everything and blew some vac hoses while in boost passing a semi. Blew the important fuel pressure regulator and pressure sensor lines. Thats when I blew the 1 rotor. Anyways I borrowed an engine from a friend while I figured out how I was going to turbo my NA. Wasn't very hard once I researched and I was REALLY over thinking it. NOW I blew a side seal on this engine after a drift event (just because of the age of the engine I have all my vac lines fixed. ) so I am going to rebuild my other NA engine with new everything. New housings, hard seals, and soft seals. Might even through in t2 rotors for lower compression. Also going to port it a bit. I'm hoping for over 200 rwhp @ 5 psi.
ANYWAYS haha that is my recommendation. Others might have better ideas, but I have NO regrets going to full t2 everything. I will never have a non turbo car again. After this engine and suspension work I'm saving up for tri-rotor.
and again ANYWAYS sorry for your lose, but think of it as a learning experience. You are about to learn a LOT. And soon you will be able to change a 13b w/o the rats nest in 3 hours like I can.
hiss ..... hiss.. hiss.. and yes its blown .. if you hear hiss hiss hiss hiss hiss then you just compression tested it wrong. IF you leave the spark plug in for the one with low compression and you take the spark plug out of the one with compression and it still cranks SUPER easy like weeeeeeeeee haha no resistance then ya its blown.
And no its not weird to blow 1 rotor. My turbo motor blew one whole rotor, then I limped it all the way home on 1 rotor and it blew the other. (23 miles) haha...
Bye bye drifting. $2000 is going to rebuild/t2 swap. Sorry to sound like a a$$ but welcome to the rx7club.com.
I REALLY recommend finding a wrecked t2 and taking everything out of that. (find one with a running engine). Then while that lasts the last 30,000 miles of its life save up for a rebuild kit and such. You can even rebuild your blown NA if its not to bad. Then you can just slap the turbo on the NA since you will have the turbo ecu wiring and drive train. You will even have LSD and a more strong everything. ( I went through NA transmissions like butter, they are weak).
Do it right or do it twice. Don't give up on the 7. I feel for you now. You were right where I was when I first got my 7. I basically got tricked and I really didn't know anything about the 7s. The stock engine and tranny blew in the first month. After installing the new NA engine I blew the second tranny, and went turbo everything so that I would stop blowing na transmissions. Bought a wrecked t2 for like 1000 with a running engine, changed everything over, removed all the emissions and such and was a happy t2 camper. After learning a lot from the swaps and such, I found out I didn't learn everything and blew some vac hoses while in boost passing a semi. Blew the important fuel pressure regulator and pressure sensor lines. Thats when I blew the 1 rotor. Anyways I borrowed an engine from a friend while I figured out how I was going to turbo my NA. Wasn't very hard once I researched and I was REALLY over thinking it. NOW I blew a side seal on this engine after a drift event (just because of the age of the engine I have all my vac lines fixed. ) so I am going to rebuild my other NA engine with new everything. New housings, hard seals, and soft seals. Might even through in t2 rotors for lower compression. Also going to port it a bit. I'm hoping for over 200 rwhp @ 5 psi.
ANYWAYS haha that is my recommendation. Others might have better ideas, but I have NO regrets going to full t2 everything. I will never have a non turbo car again. After this engine and suspension work I'm saving up for tri-rotor.
and again ANYWAYS sorry for your lose, but think of it as a learning experience. You are about to learn a LOT. And soon you will be able to change a 13b w/o the rats nest in 3 hours like I can.
Last edited by TweakGames; 10-11-07 at 07:12 PM.
#29
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If I take both spark plugs out of the rear rotor i hear NOTHING.... lol
EDIT: HELL NO NOT BYE BYE DRIFTING!!! I have a 89 GTU as my daily drive, runs perfect. I really didn't want to drift my daily drive, but hell looks like I have no choice.
EDIT: HELL NO NOT BYE BYE DRIFTING!!! I have a 89 GTU as my daily drive, runs perfect. I really didn't want to drift my daily drive, but hell looks like I have no choice.
#31
Clean.
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If you heard "hiss .... hiss ... hiss ..." then your compression tester would have also shown a spike followed by nothings. It's not unusual to blow only 1 rotor. In fact it would be quite a coincidance if you blew both at the same time.
I'm guessing you have a blown side seal on that rotor. The apex seals are on the 3 corners of the triangular rotor. The side seals are on the sides of the rotor. So if you blow an apex seal, you still have 2 apex seals giving good compression on the 3rd rotor face. The compression tester would give 1 high bounce and 2 low bounces. That's why you remove the check valve on the compression tester; otherwise your compression would look good when it isn't. If you blow a side seal, you don't get any compression on any of the faces. Blowing an apex seal is more common, but blown side seals do happen.
Even so, doesn't hurt to double check your tests.
EDIT: What, me edit? Yeah, I do that a lot. Must come from writing papers. EDIT AGAIN: I should really double check it before I first post it.
I'm guessing you have a blown side seal on that rotor. The apex seals are on the 3 corners of the triangular rotor. The side seals are on the sides of the rotor. So if you blow an apex seal, you still have 2 apex seals giving good compression on the 3rd rotor face. The compression tester would give 1 high bounce and 2 low bounces. That's why you remove the check valve on the compression tester; otherwise your compression would look good when it isn't. If you blow a side seal, you don't get any compression on any of the faces. Blowing an apex seal is more common, but blown side seals do happen.
Even so, doesn't hurt to double check your tests.
EDIT: What, me edit? Yeah, I do that a lot. Must come from writing papers. EDIT AGAIN: I should really double check it before I first post it.
#32
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Gah you keep editing your post! lol...
It's not really a lose btw... I paid $800 for a 89 GTU that runs great with a wrecked rear end(not that bad), and a 91 with a PERFECT body. Even though this '91's engine is definitely blown, I still think it's worth it.
EDIT: Lol no not you, Tweakgame's long post he edited like 2 times with more infomation.
It's not really a lose btw... I paid $800 for a 89 GTU that runs great with a wrecked rear end(not that bad), and a 91 with a PERFECT body. Even though this '91's engine is definitely blown, I still think it's worth it.
EDIT: Lol no not you, Tweakgame's long post he edited like 2 times with more infomation.
#33
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Alright lemme try to explain everything again so I know what's wrong with the engine.
Take spark plugs out of the front rotor, turn engine over. It goes SWOOSH SWOOSH SWOOSH SWOOSH SWOOSH SWOOSH. All sound very similar and all are very loud.
Put those back in, take out spark plugs in rear rotor, turn engine over. All i hear is the engine turning over, no hisses, no swooshes.
Put those back in, take the spark plug out of the top front rotor. Hook up the compression tester. Shows around 95-100 psi.
Put that plug back in, pull the plug on the top rear rotor. Hook up the compression test. Needle doesn't move at all.
Take spark plugs out of the front rotor, turn engine over. It goes SWOOSH SWOOSH SWOOSH SWOOSH SWOOSH SWOOSH. All sound very similar and all are very loud.
Put those back in, take out spark plugs in rear rotor, turn engine over. All i hear is the engine turning over, no hisses, no swooshes.
Put those back in, take the spark plug out of the top front rotor. Hook up the compression tester. Shows around 95-100 psi.
Put that plug back in, pull the plug on the top rear rotor. Hook up the compression test. Needle doesn't move at all.
#34
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hiss .... pause hiss pause hiss pause if he had both leading spark plugs out....
instead of a faster pulse... if both rotors were hissing....
:P
Tsuka yes its blown get over it. Start a rebuild plan. Or put your good engine in your blown car.... hmmm never mind s4 s5 mix eekk
instead of a faster pulse... if both rotors were hissing....
:P
Tsuka yes its blown get over it. Start a rebuild plan. Or put your good engine in your blown car.... hmmm never mind s4 s5 mix eekk
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