3 weeks. $2000. What to do?
 

Alright, I need my car running for a drift clinic at the end of this month. There's a few things wrong with it, and I'm working every day after work to get this thing ready!

PROBLEMS:

#1: It doesn't run... lol. I havn't ran a compression test yet but I'm sure I'm not gonna like the results. I'll do the ATF trick in a few days and then run a real compression test when I get one. Here's the PO's original statement about the car when it wasn't missing things (explained in #2):

"question? on the 91 it starts up but it kinda seems like it doesnt get enough spark going on sometimes it like barely cranks..it always cranks but what would cause that? it stutters when u mash the gas too.....could it be like really bad out of time or something causeing it to not rev smoothly"

#2: Few things missing from the engine bay. Radiator, battery, coil packs, spark plug wires, few random wires (I'll post pics later). The clutch line isn't hooked up to anything.

Here's the list of things I've bought so far for the car:

Battery: $75
Radiator: $325
Coil packs: $35
DTSS Eliminator: $55
Bushing Kit: $150
Rear Camber Adjuster: $140

Things I know I still need:

Spark Plug Wires
Upper Radiator Hose
Upper Radiator Elbow
Thermostat
Steering Angle Kit

Things being done for free:

Welded diff (already done)
Alignment
Mod E-brake so it doens't lock

So with all that I've gotten and still need to get, I'll be left with around $1000 to get the engine running. This is where I'm drawing a blank on what I should do. Can I rebuilt it in my garage for cheap? Should I just run it till it blows(might be already blown)? Should I buy a new engine? Remember I only have a little under 3 weeks to get this thing going. I need advise! Thanks guys.

don't do the "ATF trick" unless your intent is to actually destroy the engine
new spark plugs might be all it needs to fire over
if the plugs are fouled from flooding it'll be real hard to start

I pulled the plugs and they actually look new.

A few things I forgot to mention. It has around 120k miles. It's a 1991 N/A.

EDIT: Another few things, this is a track car. It'll never touch the roads. Anything I can do that ordinary street cars couldn't do? :)

do a compression test before u waste all of your time.

I'm looking for options because I'm already 99% sure the compression test is gonna be bad.

3 weeks. $2000. What to do?

From one drifter to another (maybe soon to be), Buy a s13. 2k isnt enough to make the 7 a drift worthy car especially with engine problems. I personally have trouble with my stock turbo suspension and 184.5 whp. I don't know what a coil pack is but you need to drop and stiffen the suspension on the 7 and add a turbo for any decent results.

If you want more info PM me. I wont be visiting this thread again...

Well glad that guy's not coming back...

Just so everyone knows, this is a drift CLINIC. Perfect for new drifters as they will have instructor. This isn't a competition or anything like that. I have plans for the suspension and power over the winter, but for now I just have to get the car running.

Until you test the compression I don't think anyone will believe you are serious about that goal.

For drifting, you don't need to install the new bushings or DTSS elminators (this will take at least a whole weekend, probably).

You won't need to use the hand-brake for drifting, unless you're doing 180s.

And you don't need a steering angle kit! Washers will work just fine! (this is common knowledge). If you can't get it running with at least a week left, just leave the steering alone for now. For drifting, you'd get more from a bucket seat, harness, and steering wheel + spacer (or a deep dish wheel) than you would from a few more degrees of steering angle.

Concentrate on getting the car running!

If you're missing "random wires" or electrical harnesses, this can cause major problems. When I first got my FC, it won't even crank because ONE little plug in the engine bay was unplugged (near the battery).

Go to the nearest auto parts store, or Harbor Freight, and get a compression tester. They only cost like 30 bucks (for a good one). Or at LEAST pull the plugs and listen for even pulses.

Engine rebuild is $1200 just for the seals. Labor and any worn out parts are a bit more. Check the engine first.

How come the people with all the resources never know the basics? If you want to throw money at a problem, pay a mechanic.

1. Test the engine. Check the engine with a compression tester. Remove the check valve from the compression. Once you get it running later, check the coolant seals (do a forum search to see how). Finally, rev to 6,000 RPM while checking for smoke in the back. Do the same again while in gear on the street. Make sure the car is fully warmed up before you rev it that high. If the engine is bad, you need to consider giving up or spending a lot more money.
2. Spend $20 on Haynes manual. Do EVERYTHING in chapter 1. Use only OEM thermostats. Start with the engine related items (fuel & ignition items) and whatever else is necessary to get the engine running. That way you can finish step 1.
3. Fix any other problems you notice.
4. Bring to a mechanic for an inspection to find any remaining problems.
5. Upgrade away. I'm assuming you know all the basic upgrade items; they're the same as any other car. For track replacing the probably-worn-out shocks is a good start, and I see you're already replacing the probably-worn-out bushings.

I guess I didn't explain what I'd like help with very well. Sorry.

I've been waiting on my dad to bring home a compression tester from his work... he keeps forgetting. :(

The entire rear end's out of the car already, and they're already in the mail.

Who knows what the course will look like!

Phew, I didn't order it yet. :)

That's what this thread is mainly about!!!!!!

All good advise... it just sucks fixing and buying new stuff for something that you're gonna replace later. I really was just hoping for cheap or relatively cheap fixes because I do plan on replacing the motor with a TII engine later. Just like replacing shocks I'm sure would help me out a lot, but I plan on getting coil-overs, so it doesn't seem right.

if your engine's toast you can buy the engine out of my daily driver
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=691147 sweet setup.

if your engine is not blown buy some coilovers, brake pads, stainless lines, and tires. the essentials for a track car.

Looks like a great deal. Hell, I'd rather buy that to drop in my DD... lol.

+1 on comp test... you can do a poor mans compression test and pull a spark plug. Pull out your EGI Comp and EGI INJ fuses then have someone crank the car over, you will be listening for even and strong 'swooshes' coming from the engine. Replace the spark plug and remove one from the other rotor housing and repeat. If you hear even and strong swooshes from both rotors then you are probably OK.

Get that wiring harness taken care of too as im willing to bet that is the problem.

I do have an S5 shortblock in stockbridge if your motor is blown thoguh :fruit:

Who thinks I can order a JDM TII get it here, and get it running by my deadline? :lol:

nope. Cause that engine will be blown 2. But go ahead and pour some atf in it. :lol: Sorry I came back I was wondering if you gave up yet or not.

:icon_no2: :D

Sounds very similar to what my engine was doing. It was the AFM. I don't know if you're on stock wiring or not, I would assume so.

Bullshit.

Thats because you depend on the cars power to drift and not its weight. :wallbash:

N/As drift great. :icon_tup:


And BTW, an S13 has 155fhp...

Thanks man. I thought I was the only one who didn't see how retarded that comment was...

Good update today. I did the crappy compression test today. Front rotor sounds AWESOME. I get all LOUD swooshes when I turn the engine over. Rear rotor sounds... yeeeeaaaah... not as great. I bought some Marvel Mystery Oil and poured some in. I'll have a real compression tester tomorrow so hopefully the 24 hour Marvel soak will help the test tomorrow.

More stuff I forgot to add that I need to get... brake master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder. Also the line that goes to the exhaust that opens up the 5/6 ports is gone. Where can you I that at?

Stopped by the parts store and got everything else I needed. New plugs, plug wires, thermostat, blah, blah, blah.

I guess since no one cares about the updates I'll just ask my problem again.

The tube that goes from the cat in the exhaust to the back of the engine (I think to open the 5/6 intake ports) is missing. Anyone know what I can buy one?

I have drifted in both a s13 and a turbo s4. The rx7 likes to grip and unless you have VERY crappy rear tires (unsafe to drift in at high speeds) or you are just going into the corners so fast that your doing a 4 wheel drift its harder to get the rear to come out and hold it without the power. Also with the stock suspension the body roll on my 7 at least (no blown anything) caused my front wheels to either come off the ground or have no weight causing major understeer once the rear tires got even a little warm. After popping the clutch in and out for a sec I had to use power to keep the rear out. There is no way I would be able to hold the drifts with just inertia or weight transfer for that long. (This is while doing a 3rd gear, 5000 rpm bull boost 3/8 mile banked corner. I was barely able to hold the drift all the way through) An s13 holds seemed to hold much less g forces in the corners and simply coming into the a long bank a little to fast got and kept the rear out the while time with just enough gas to keep the speed. This was also a stock s13 with lsd. Just being a little reckless with an s13 seemed to do the trick. O.o I never even touched the clutch other then to shift with the s13...

I have dtss elims, lsd diff, 184 rwhp, and I was switching tire sets like mad trying to find out why It seemed I was auto-xing the course the first few times. Then I saw the picture of my car and how the front inside wheels were off the ground because of my body roll.

If its just a beginner course I hope its all small, flat level, and tight turning. Maybe staying in second .. 30-60 mph. I think then you will be fine just doing some 10o ft tail whip clutch drops @ 5k.

Good luck and have fun. Dtss install shouldn't take more then an hour. Just find a socket that the dtss elim barely fits in and a socket that is about the same size as the original dtss, and hammer it out with a hammer. Then put it back using a chuck of wood so you don't crack it. I was surprised how much better the car felt afterwards. A lot safer in the rain also.

Don't give up on the NA 7 drifter. But as of right now you nor I can get serious without major suspension work. I don't claim to know everything but I have drifted on a track with both cars and if it wasn't or my love of the 7 I would have a s13 sitting in my garage. Parts are to plentiful, cheap, and easy to get.

Also .... don't even think about drifting till you have an idle. :P Get it running first then come talk drifting... Times a ticking.

I belive you can bypass that and keep em open with a zip tie. its been awhile since ive messed with a 13b but i remember doing something like that. the tube is for emissions and can be left off/ pinched shut. someone please correct me if i am wrong.

like everyone else said, get the car running then mess with the other BS. it would suck to run out of money then still not have a running car.

I hope you got a mazda thermostat also ....

Is it time to give up? Hooked the compression test up to the front rotor, looks like it's getting around 95-100 psi on each face. Hooked it up to the other rotor... didn't move the needle. Time to cry?