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3 step didn't work for flooding- try again?

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Old 01-27-03, 07:02 AM
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3 step didn't work for flooding- try again?

I think my '86 is flooded. It has sat for about 3 months. I tried the 3 step method, removed the fuse, turned it over without the plugs and fusee, used 30w oil, installed new plugs, etc. It seemed to get compression for a short time, but it still didn't start and reverted back to the "whine" mode.

I think during one of my searches it said it may be necessary to repeat the process.

Should I repeat the 3 step or is there something else wrong with it?
Old 01-27-03, 08:07 AM
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yeah crank it about three times for about ten seconds each time I do not think you need to take off the plugs unless the thing has like a glass of gasoline in it. Just make sure that the battery is charged and the plugs are in reletivly good condition. After the three tries put the fuse pack in and crank it a couple of times it should start. If all else fails try a tow start or a push start usually when other methods do not work this one does.
Old 01-27-03, 08:36 AM
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unless you had some issues with the car before you let it sit it should be alright. keep trying the unflooding method and you'll get it
Old 01-27-03, 09:16 AM
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how about you try an easier method of unflooding by holding down the gas pedal to the floor, crank the engine until it starts up...about 8-10 seconds.

I never did understand what is with all the fuse/plug pulling, 30-40 second engine cranking. If you guys have a reason for this, please let me know. If you read your owners manual or talk to a Mazda technician, they will tell you the method I just mentioned. And it ALWAYS works for me!
Old 01-27-03, 09:34 AM
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Originally posted by Crionics
If you read your owners manual or talk to a Mazda technician, they will tell you the method I just mentioned. And it ALWAYS works for me!
I agree.
Old 01-27-03, 11:41 AM
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Originally posted by Crionics
how about you try an easier method of unflooding by holding down the gas pedal to the floor, crank the engine until it starts up...about 8-10 seconds.

I never did understand what is with all the fuse/plug pulling, 30-40 second engine cranking. If you guys have a reason for this, please let me know. If you read your owners manual or talk to a Mazda technician, they will tell you the method I just mentioned. And it ALWAYS works for me!
It depends on what year model you have.

S5 - (89-91) Will cut fuel, if you floored the gas pedal when trying to start it. Making it easier to start a flooded engine.

S4 - (86-88) Does not have this feature, so flooring the gas pedal will just make the flooding worse.

Does that explain it for you?
Old 01-27-03, 01:22 PM
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It depends on what year model you have.
Well, not exactly seeing as I have an '86 NA
Old 01-27-03, 03:44 PM
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If the engine is very, very flooded, do this:

Pull leading spark plugs and pour an ounce of 20W 50 in each plug hole.

Disconnect fuel pump relay under dash

Crank engine by hand with plugs still out. This will make a mess

Put another ounce of oil into each plug hole

Reinstall plugs

Start the car

Once it starts, hold the engine at 1500 RPM while you reconnect the fuel pump relay under the dash

Car should keep running. Let it fully warm up and then shut if off normally. If it still floods, you have other problems.

Flooring the pedal does not work on '86-'88 cars.
Old 01-28-03, 02:01 AM
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Originally posted by Crionics
I never did understand what is with all the fuse/plug pulling, 30-40 second engine cranking. If you guys have a reason for this, please let me know.
There's no point in trying to unflood an engine by pumping more fuel into it. You must cut the fuel flow by either disabling the injectors (by pulling the fuse) or using a fuel pump switch. Then you crank it with the throttle held fully open. Many people seem to forget the throttle bit, and just end up pumping the excess fuel around inside the engine and wondering why it won't unflood. This is why Mazda used full throttle as the signal to cut the injectors during cranking for the S5, because it's the correct unflooding procedure.
You should also never crank the engine for more than 10 seconds at a time, as it overheats the starter motor. A 30 second cooling down period is necessary between attempts.

Last edited by NZConvertible; 01-28-03 at 02:03 AM.
Old 01-28-03, 04:11 AM
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
There's no point in trying to unflood an engine by pumping more fuel into it. You must cut the fuel flow by either disabling the injectors (by pulling the fuse) or using a fuel pump switch. Then you crank it with the throttle held fully open. Many people seem to forget the throttle bit, and just end up pumping the excess fuel around inside the engine and wondering why it won't unflood. This is why Mazda used full throttle as the signal to cut the injectors during cranking for the S5, because it's the correct unflooding procedure.
You should also never crank the engine for more than 10 seconds at a time, as it overheats the starter motor. A 30 second cooling down period is necessary between attempts.

I agree, Take the 30 minutes and 3.00$ it takes to install a fuel cut switch. It's saved me from a world of trouble a couple of times.

J
Old 01-30-03, 02:17 AM
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instead of 20/50 oil use atf.........the last time mine flooded thats all thats would work for me
Old 01-30-03, 02:23 AM
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instead of 20/50 oil use atf.........the last time mine flooded thats all thats would wor
Old 01-30-03, 04:21 AM
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mine flooded a few weeks back and just wouldnt start for love nor money

tried all sorts and no joy

simple answer to this ( by the local AA man )

get some locking pliers
lock them onto the rubber fuel pipe
turn the starter until it starts ( or in bursts )
leave car to run for a FEW seconds
remove pliers

simple eh ! - if you dont remove the pliers quick enough it will stall anyways

this worked for me and a few times on the neighbours car - but i suppose its down to how badily its flooded
Old 01-30-03, 10:37 AM
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Well, it just all seems a bit much to me...and I can't seem to figure out why my car always starts up without pulling fuses or flipping toggle switches, etc.

And the guy I talked to at Mazda knows a f&$% of a lot about these engines. He swears up and down that they work for S4's. I am not going to argue with anyone about it, but just seems a bit much and my car always starts up within about 4 seconds,
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