2nd gen O2 Oxygen sensor part numbers
2nd gen O2 Oxygen sensor part numbers
Guys,
I know this has been answered a few places in the past, but I see mixed messages all over the place and O2 is not an easily searchable term being only 2 characters. So, I decided to put this note here to seee if we could collect the part numbers folks would need...
What is the direct replacement O2 sensor stock type replacement part numbers if looking to replace without getting into 3 wire, 4 wire...
What I have heard is:
Mazda NOS sensor (pricey) part number ???
NAPA Ford Escort sensor part number ???
Bosch sensor part number ???
Any others that should be listed and pro and cons about each? Can someone give us the part numbers to order and maybe link this to the FAQ?
Mike B
I know this has been answered a few places in the past, but I see mixed messages all over the place and O2 is not an easily searchable term being only 2 characters. So, I decided to put this note here to seee if we could collect the part numbers folks would need...
What is the direct replacement O2 sensor stock type replacement part numbers if looking to replace without getting into 3 wire, 4 wire...
What I have heard is:
Mazda NOS sensor (pricey) part number ???
NAPA Ford Escort sensor part number ???
Bosch sensor part number ???
Any others that should be listed and pro and cons about each? Can someone give us the part numbers to order and maybe link this to the FAQ?
Mike B
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
I simply walk into a parts store and ask for a "generic Bosch oxygen sensor, single wire". You'll need to change the connector on the end to match your harness.
Pros:
-cheap
-same as Mazda part
-available anywhere
Cons:
-you need to change the connector
Pros:
-cheap
-same as Mazda part
-available anywhere
Cons:
-you need to change the connector
You can normally ask them for "cheapest 1-wire O2 sensor", and most good parts people will know which one.
Despite what other people may tell you, an O2 sensor is an O2 sensor is an O2 sensor.
Some will claims "xxx" type O2 sensor responds better (bullshit) and / or lasts longer (maybe).
The only difference is that some of them are now 0-5V versions.
You need the 0-1V version.
-Ted
Despite what other people may tell you, an O2 sensor is an O2 sensor is an O2 sensor.
Some will claims "xxx" type O2 sensor responds better (bullshit) and / or lasts longer (maybe).
The only difference is that some of them are now 0-5V versions.
You need the 0-1V version.
-Ted
I replaced my OEM one recently with the autozone special, but I think my fuel economy might be suffering a bit because of it.
I might try the Bosch one next if I can't get more than 260miles/tank.
I might try the Bosch one next if I can't get more than 260miles/tank.
So next time someone buys one of the Bosch units, how about reading the label on the side of the box and tell us what the Bosch part number is.
Theories are great, but facts are what make the rotary turn...
Theories are great, but facts are what make the rotary turn...
I picked up a new O2 for mine last Friday, I took a look at the original one and it was made by NGK, so that's what I bought NGK/NTK cost me $39 for the 'universal one (no connector). #21000
Seem to be working just fine!
Seem to be working just fine!
Trending Topics
Here's one even better- Bosch p/n 12054, direct plug & play for our cars, no splicing needed, connector already on there. Unit has worked good for me for about a year now, checked it with a meter at the ECU 'bout a month ago, doing great at .4 to .5 volts at cruise...
NGK #24000 (no connector) from Sparkplugs.com, $24.
The reason I used this one is because the stock length of connector will no reach the bung on the header's so the lead needs to be lengthened anyway...
The reason I used this one is because the stock length of connector will no reach the bung on the header's so the lead needs to be lengthened anyway...
Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
Here's one even better- Bosch p/n 12054, direct plug & play for our cars, no splicing needed, connector already on there. Unit has worked good for me for about a year now, checked it with a meter at the ECU 'bout a month ago, doing great at .4 to .5 volts at cruise...
I know I'm resurrecting an old thread, but after reading this I took Wayne's advice and picked up Bosch #12054 and it is not a direct fit! Perhaps it's for a different model... (I thought they were all the same, though)? I have an S5 N/A.
This should be an easy question -- what is involved in "splicing" the old connector onto the new one? I don't have much electrical experience. Are there certain wires in the connector that you have to match up, or do you just cut the old one a few inches back and mate the wires or something?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
josef 91 vert
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
23
Sep 3, 2015 11:20 AM
KAL797
Test Area 51
0
Aug 11, 2015 03:47 PM




