20B Pics!
#1
I Raise Chickens
Thread Starter
20B Pics!
We got the 20B for J9FD3S's 88 T2 last friday. We started taking it apart getting it ready to put in the car. After seeing that the stock harness and emissions control systems is about 10 times more complex than an FD's we decided to rip that crap out and just use the haltech. So no more stock 20B ecu.
Last edited by cymfc3s; 01-14-02 at 07:43 AM.
#7
Rotorhead
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes
on
33 Posts
Re: 20B Pics!
Originally posted by cymfc3s
We got the 20B for J9FD3S's 88 T2 last friday. We started taking it apart getting it ready to put in the car. After seeing that the stock harness and emissions control systems is about 10 times more complex than an FD's we decided to rip that crap out and just use the haltech. So no more stock 20B ecu.
We got the 20B for J9FD3S's 88 T2 last friday. We started taking it apart getting it ready to put in the car. After seeing that the stock harness and emissions control systems is about 10 times more complex than an FD's we decided to rip that crap out and just use the haltech. So no more stock 20B ecu.
What are you guys doing about the transmission, anti-roll bar, water pump and thermostat issues?
Trending Topics
#8
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,831
Received 2,597 Likes
on
1,845 Posts
Re: Re: 20B Pics!
Originally posted by Evil Aviator
Hehehe, yeah, that would have been pretty difficult to make a custom computer module to fool the stock ECU into thinking that it has the Cosmo automatic tranny attached to it.
What are you guys doing about the transmission, anti-roll bar, water pump and thermostat issues?
Hehehe, yeah, that would have been pretty difficult to make a custom computer module to fool the stock ECU into thinking that it has the Cosmo automatic tranny attached to it.
What are you guys doing about the transmission, anti-roll bar, water pump and thermostat issues?
2. anti roll bar, i dunno what are you doing? im not really that far along yet
3. i havent decided that either, the stock 20b pump is $430 if it goes out
so i might use either a t2 or fd both of witch ive got
the a/t box thing and the scary vacuum system is why i dont want to use the stock ecu, i dont have a vacuum diagram, and all the hoeses are baked enough to where they will start blowing off, and i dont think the harness will reach.
the goal is to have the car running in feb, and then next winter its going to be made pretty
mike
#9
Rotorhead
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes
on
33 Posts
Re: Re: Re: 20B Pics!
Originally posted by j9fd3s
1. im using the stock t2 trans, im not drag racing it i should be ok
1. im using the stock t2 trans, im not drag racing it i should be ok
Originally posted by j9fd3s
2. anti roll bar, i dunno what are you doing? im not really that far along yet
2. anti roll bar, i dunno what are you doing? im not really that far along yet
Originally posted by j9fd3s
3. i havent decided that either, the stock 20b pump is $430 if it goes out so i might use either a t2 or fd both of witch ive got
3. i havent decided that either, the stock 20b pump is $430 if it goes out so i might use either a t2 or fd both of witch ive got
Sorry about the annoying questions, but I'm always wondering what everyone else is doing so that I can see if there is a better way to configure mine. Just a few more questions:
What are you using for the ignition?
What kind of tachometer are you using?
Which flywheel are you using?
What are you using for the throttle cable?
What kind of radiator and hoses are you using?
Are you going to modify the intake elbow to clear the hood, or will you be using a custom intake elbow?
Are you using the stock Cosmo fuel pump?
Since the Haltech doesn't work well for boost control, what boost controller are you using?
Are you using an intercooler?
Are the serial numbers ground off your rotor hosings like mine are? This bothers me a bit. I'm hoping it's the standard way that Japan "de-mils" their parts.
BTW, that's good that your engine came with the alternator connector. Mine didn't, and it took me several days to source one.
#10
Wow those pictures look better than the ones I took on the site! Can I use them Mike? hehe Make sure to send me some shots of that baby to toss on the website when it gets finished up!
#11
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,831
Received 2,597 Likes
on
1,845 Posts
Re: Re: Re: Re: 20B Pics!
Originally posted by Evil Aviator
What are you using for the ignition?
What kind of tachometer are you using?
Which flywheel are you using?
What are you using for the throttle cable?
What kind of radiator and hoses are you using?
Are you going to modify the intake elbow to clear the hood, or will you be using a custom intake elbow?
Are you using the stock Cosmo fuel pump?
Since the Haltech doesn't work well for boost control, what boost controller are you using?
Are you using an intercooler?
Are the serial numbers ground off your rotor hosings like mine are? This bothers me a bit. I'm hoping it's the standard way that Japan "de-mils" their parts.
.
What are you using for the ignition?
What kind of tachometer are you using?
Which flywheel are you using?
What are you using for the throttle cable?
What kind of radiator and hoses are you using?
Are you going to modify the intake elbow to clear the hood, or will you be using a custom intake elbow?
Are you using the stock Cosmo fuel pump?
Since the Haltech doesn't work well for boost control, what boost controller are you using?
Are you using an intercooler?
Are the serial numbers ground off your rotor hosings like mine are? This bothers me a bit. I'm hoping it's the standard way that Japan "de-mils" their parts.
.
i hadnt even thought about the tach yet i could rig the stock one to work, you could hook up a stock t2 ecu to run the tach (i think, right?)
i have a steel racing beat t2 flywheel im reusing, with a copper act clutch
i might use a 12a throttle cable, or maybe an fd one, im going to have to measure a few and see what fits
im going to piece together some radiator hoses with piping in between, it depends on where the radiator end up
i doubt it will have a hood right away, i may have paul make me a cf one
i was thinking about using the big bosch fuel pump, or the giant apexi one, what are you using
i have a profec a
yup, we have an m2 large floating around the house, or i might get the new greddy kit http://www.cabrio7.org/mods/ic/P1010023.JPG the m2 large is shorter than that one and would fit with the bumper. also the pipe routing is the least painful
my motor has all of the numbers still on it, so where did you get yours from? they didnt take the time to do anything with mine.
mike
#12
Rotorhead
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes
on
33 Posts
Originally posted by j9fd3s
im either going to use the stock coils and ignitors, or i have a 2000 mpv coil sitting on my desk that i could use (its 6 cyl waste spark)
im either going to use the stock coils and ignitors, or i have a 2000 mpv coil sitting on my desk that i could use (its 6 cyl waste spark)
Originally posted by j9fd3s
i hadnt even thought about the tach yet i could rig the stock one to work, you could hook up a stock t2 ecu to run the tach (i think, right?)
i hadnt even thought about the tach yet i could rig the stock one to work, you could hook up a stock t2 ecu to run the tach (i think, right?)
Originally posted by j9fd3s
i have a steel racing beat t2 flywheel im reusing, with a copper act clutch
i have a steel racing beat t2 flywheel im reusing, with a copper act clutch
Originally posted by j9fd3s
i was thinking about using the big bosch fuel pump, or the giant apexi one, what are you using
i was thinking about using the big bosch fuel pump, or the giant apexi one, what are you using
Originally posted by j9fd3s
i have a profec a
i have a profec a
Originally posted by j9fd3s
yup, we have an m2 large floating around the house, or i might get the new greddy kit http://www.cabrio7.org/mods/ic/P1010023.JPG the m2 large is shorter than that one and would fit with the bumper. also the pipe routing is the least painful
yup, we have an m2 large floating around the house, or i might get the new greddy kit http://www.cabrio7.org/mods/ic/P1010023.JPG the m2 large is shorter than that one and would fit with the bumper. also the pipe routing is the least painful
Originally posted by j9fd3s
my motor has all of the numbers still on it, so where did you get yours from? they didnt take the time to do anything with mine.
my motor has all of the numbers still on it, so where did you get yours from? they didnt take the time to do anything with mine.
#13
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,831
Received 2,597 Likes
on
1,845 Posts
Originally posted by Evil Aviator
Oh great, mine was probably imported by the Japanese mafia or something. I got mine from SR Motorsports. There is a grinding mark on each of my rotor housings to the right of the "20B" and above the "Mazda" writing. I assume that some sort of ID used to be there.
Oh great, mine was probably imported by the Japanese mafia or something. I got mine from SR Motorsports. There is a grinding mark on each of my rotor housings to the right of the "20B" and above the "Mazda" writing. I assume that some sort of ID used to be there.
the act clutch is rated at like 460+lbsft on the mazda comp site, i figure that should be enough, im sticking with the stock turbos too so that should help.
paul ko is helping me out with the ignition, so im not 100% sure where im going to end up, but at least i have a choice (we were talking about using the stock ecu to run the sequentials and the ignition).
where is the tach driven from?? the ignition signal to the ecu is the same as a 13b right? dont they both use an ne and a g signal, and fire the ingnition from that?? im only planning on making like 400+ hp right now, i wanted the grunt and the sound, or actually i want to keep up with seth with out being hard on the motor
mike
#14
Rotorhead
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes
on
33 Posts
Originally posted by j9fd3s
who knows where ray got the motor from?
who knows where ray got the motor from?
Originally posted by j9fd3s
mine has nothing in that spot but there are no grindings either.
mine has nothing in that spot but there are no grindings either.
Originally posted by j9fd3s
the act clutch is rated at like 460+lbsft on the mazda comp site
the act clutch is rated at like 460+lbsft on the mazda comp site
Originally posted by j9fd3s
the ignition signal to the ecu is the same as a 13b right? dont they both use an ne and a g signal, and fire the ingnition from that?
the ignition signal to the ecu is the same as a 13b right? dont they both use an ne and a g signal, and fire the ingnition from that?
Originally posted by j9fd3s
im only planning on making like 400+ hp right now, i wanted the grunt and the sound, or actually i want to keep up with seth with out being hard on the motor
im only planning on making like 400+ hp right now, i wanted the grunt and the sound, or actually i want to keep up with seth with out being hard on the motor
#15
I Raise Chickens
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Evil Aviator
That's a whole lot better than going for the whole enchilada and taking over 3 years to get the car running like some OTHER people on this forum. Oh, wait a minute, that's me.
That's a whole lot better than going for the whole enchilada and taking over 3 years to get the car running like some OTHER people on this forum. Oh, wait a minute, that's me.
Not that theres anything wrong with taking 3 years. =]
#17
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,831
Received 2,597 Likes
on
1,845 Posts
maybe ray put the grindings on your so he knew it was his? mine has those little heat button things next to the spark plugs that the importer put on, so i cant pull the motor apart and put bad rotor housings in it or something??
mike
mike
#18
Rotorhead
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes
on
33 Posts
Originally posted by j9fd3s
maybe ray put the grindings on your so he knew it was his? mine has those little heat button things next to the spark plugs that the importer put on, so i cant pull the motor apart and put bad rotor housings in it or something??
maybe ray put the grindings on your so he knew it was his? mine has those little heat button things next to the spark plugs that the importer put on, so i cant pull the motor apart and put bad rotor housings in it or something??
I'm not sure what you mean by the heat button things. Do you have a picture?
#19
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,831
Received 2,597 Likes
on
1,845 Posts
nope they aren't in any of the pics http://www.fc3s.org/20BT3rotor694.jpg
they are right between the leading and trailing plugs, nut they aren't in this picture. they are little metal discs, som machine shops put them on cylinder heads, so that if it comes back they can make sure it thiers.
where your rotor housings say mazda 20b is that painted black and then the letteres polished? that how mine are you can kinda see it in the pics
mike
they are right between the leading and trailing plugs, nut they aren't in this picture. they are little metal discs, som machine shops put them on cylinder heads, so that if it comes back they can make sure it thiers.
where your rotor housings say mazda 20b is that painted black and then the letteres polished? that how mine are you can kinda see it in the pics
mike
#22
Originally posted by setzep
could those tabs be the ones he puts on the engine to tell if you overheated it?
could those tabs be the ones he puts on the engine to tell if you overheated it?
#23
Lives on the Forum
That's a pretty nice 20B!
It's one of the most complete 20B's I've seen in a long time.
The 20B I got had the rear turbo inlet broken/missing and that throttle body inlet missing also.
-Ted
It's one of the most complete 20B's I've seen in a long time.
The 20B I got had the rear turbo inlet broken/missing and that throttle body inlet missing also.
-Ted
#25
Rotorhead
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes
on
33 Posts
Originally posted by j9fd3s
nope they aren't in any of the pics http://www.fc3s.org/20BT3rotor694.jpg
they are right between the leading and trailing plugs, nut they aren't in this picture. they are little metal discs, som machine shops put them on cylinder heads, so that if it comes back they can make sure it thiers.
where your rotor housings say mazda 20b is that painted black and then the letteres polished? that how mine are you can kinda see it in the pics
mike
nope they aren't in any of the pics http://www.fc3s.org/20BT3rotor694.jpg
they are right between the leading and trailing plugs, nut they aren't in this picture. they are little metal discs, som machine shops put them on cylinder heads, so that if it comes back they can make sure it thiers.
where your rotor housings say mazda 20b is that painted black and then the letteres polished? that how mine are you can kinda see it in the pics
mike
Yes, my rotor housings have the same finish as yours. It looks kinda like a pewter-finish military badge or tie clasp. Actually, your engine looks a lot like mine did, but mine was less complete like Ted's.
Does your alternator belt have some type of size marking on it? I'm going to need one, and it would save me a lot of time and effort if I knew which one to order.