We got the 20B for J9FD3S's 88 T2 last friday. We started taking it apart getting it ready to put in the car. After seeing that the stock harness and emissions control systems is about 10 times more complex than an FD's we decided to rip that crap out and just use the haltech. So no more stock 20B ecu.

 

Some shots of the uber complex stock harness and emissions crap.

 

can you say HELL YEAH
Can't wait to see more pics of it. And is it gonna get any porting done?

 

Now that is alot of **** under there?!!?! Way more that an FD or FC.

Can wait to see it done.

 

Beautiful Engine, Just beautiful!

 

I have wet dreams about that engine! Nice!

 

Hehehe, yeah, that would have been pretty difficult to make a custom computer module to fool the stock ECU into thinking that it has the Cosmo automatic tranny attached to it.

What are you guys doing about the transmission, anti-roll bar, water pump and thermostat issues?

 

1. im using the stock t2 trans, im not drag racing it i should be ok
2. anti roll bar, i dunno what are you doing? im not really that far along yet
3. i havent decided that either, the stock 20b pump is $430 if it goes out
so i might use either a t2 or fd both of witch ive got

the a/t box thing and the scary vacuum system is why i dont want to use the stock ecu, i dont have a vacuum diagram, and all the hoeses are baked enough to where they will start blowing off, and i dont think the harness will reach.

the goal is to have the car running in feb, and then next winter its going to be made pretty

mike

 

Yes, I think it will work as a street car as long as you stick to the stock ports and stock turbos running 15 PSI or less. However, you will need to make a blocking/mounting plate to mount the TII starter and block the hole left by the Cosmo AT starter. Also, you will need a REALLY strong clutch.

Hehehe, I'm hoping that K2RD comes up with something good in the next few weeks. Otherwise, I'm going to use a Mazda Motorsports FD Speedway bar with custom end links. This will be one of the last things that I do before my car hits the road.

I meant the clearance issue. The stock thermostat will not clear the hood, so you will either need to make a custom thermostat housing, use a lesser-flowing 13B water pump housing, use a competition water pump with no thermostat, or use an electric water pump. I'm using a SPiN Racing custom billet dual thermostat housing on mine so that I can keep the 20B water pump.

Sorry about the annoying questions, but I'm always wondering what everyone else is doing so that I can see if there is a better way to configure mine. Just a few more questions:

What are you using for the ignition?

What kind of tachometer are you using?

Which flywheel are you using?

What are you using for the throttle cable?

What kind of radiator and hoses are you using?

Are you going to modify the intake elbow to clear the hood, or will you be using a custom intake elbow?

Are you using the stock Cosmo fuel pump?

Since the Haltech doesn't work well for boost control, what boost controller are you using?

Are you using an intercooler?

Are the serial numbers ground off your rotor hosings like mine are? This bothers me a bit. I'm hoping it's the standard way that Japan "de-mils" their parts.

BTW, that's good that your engine came with the alternator connector. Mine didn't, and it took me several days to source one.

 

Wow those pictures look better than the ones I took on the site! Can I use them Mike? hehe Make sure to send me some shots of that baby to toss on the website when it gets finished up!

 

im either going to use the stock coils and ignitors, or i have a 2000 mpv coil sitting on my desk that i could use (its 6 cyl waste spark)

i hadnt even thought about the tach yet i could rig the stock one to work, you could hook up a stock t2 ecu to run the tach (i think, right?)

i have a steel racing beat t2 flywheel im reusing, with a copper act clutch

i might use a 12a throttle cable, or maybe an fd one, im going to have to measure a few and see what fits

im going to piece together some radiator hoses with piping in between, it depends on where the radiator end up

i doubt it will have a hood right away, i may have paul make me a cf one

i was thinking about using the big bosch fuel pump, or the giant apexi one, what are you using

i have a profec a

yup, we have an m2 large floating around the house, or i might get the new greddy kit http://www.cabrio7.org/mods/ic/P1010023.JPG the m2 large is shorter than that one and would fit with the bumper. also the pipe routing is the least painful

my motor has all of the numbers still on it, so where did you get yours from? they didnt take the time to do anything with mine.

mike

 

I don't think that you can use the stock coils with the Haltech. You may want to check with The Hitman on this. The stock coils are really strange.

No, the stock tach will not work correctly. You will either need to recalibrate the stock tach or use an aftermarket tach with a "V-6" ignition signal or a hall effect pickup. I am using a SPA tach/speedo, along with a full set of SPA dual gauges.

Hmm, that will be interesting to see if that ACT clutch can keep from slipping. It would sure be nice to have a low-cost option to the CFDF and multi-disk clutches that everyone else uses with the 20B.

http://www.essexind.com/sx_main.htm

I was going to use a PRofec B, but I decided to try out the on-board 3D boost controller on the Wolf3D and see how that works out. I'm hoping to try this out sometime in February or March.

If you have an M2 large floating around, then use it! Save your money for the wide body kit that you are going to need once you see how that 20B lights up those skinny stock tires.

Oh great, mine was probably imported by the Japanese mafia or something. I got mine from SR Motorsports. There is a grinding mark on each of my rotor housings to the right of the "20B" and above the "Mazda" writing. I assume that some sort of ID used to be there.

 

who knows where ray got the motor from? mine has nothing in that spot but there are no grindings either.
the act clutch is rated at like 460+lbsft on the mazda comp site, i figure that should be enough, im sticking with the stock turbos too so that should help.
paul ko is helping me out with the ignition, so im not 100% sure where im going to end up, but at least i have a choice (we were talking about using the stock ecu to run the sequentials and the ignition).
where is the tach driven from?? the ignition signal to the ecu is the same as a 13b right? dont they both use an ne and a g signal, and fire the ingnition from that?? im only planning on making like 400+ hp right now, i wanted the grunt and the sound, or actually i want to keep up with seth with out being hard on the motor

mike

 

Hehehe, I shouldn't comment on that in public.

Hmm, that's interesting. Your engine is a Series I like mine, so I wouldn't think that it would be any different. I wonder where my grindings came from?

Hehehe, I can't ever find jack on that web site. The ACT catalog lists 422ft-lbs with the HD pressure plate, and 567ft-lbs with the XT pressure plate. The holding capacity is 34% for the HD and 80% for the XT. The CFDF has worked fine on other basic 20B conversions, and it has a 90% holding capacity rating. Therefore, you should be OK with your current mods if you use the XT pressure plate along with that clutch, but IMO anything less is going to cause slippage. BTW, have fun driving that thing on the street.

Oh, I thought you meant you were going to use the stock 13B ECU for the tach. Thinking about wiring the stock 20B ECU in with a Haltech makes my head hurt. Hey, whatever works, right?

That's a whole lot better than going for the whole enchilada and taking over 3 years to get the car running like some OTHER people on this forum. Oh, wait a minute, that's me.

 

Not that theres anything wrong with taking 3 years. =]

 

 

maybe ray put the grindings on your so he knew it was his? mine has those little heat button things next to the spark plugs that the importer put on, so i cant pull the motor apart and put bad rotor housings in it or something??

mike

 

I don't think that Ray would have bothered with markings because he never did anything with the engine. It just sat around his shop collecting dust.

I'm not sure what you mean by the heat button things. Do you have a picture?

 

nope they aren't in any of the pics http://www.fc3s.org/20BT3rotor694.jpg
they are right between the leading and trailing plugs, nut they aren't in this picture. they are little metal discs, som machine shops put them on cylinder heads, so that if it comes back they can make sure it thiers.

where your rotor housings say mazda 20b is that painted black and then the letteres polished? that how mine are you can kinda see it in the pics

mike

 

could those tabs be the ones he puts on the engine to tell if you overheated it?

 

AWESOME!!!!!

 

He is right. My importer puts them on when he gets them in here from Japan, and that way they can tell if the motor is overheated after it leaves him. They are attached with lead I believe and melt off at 255F I believe, so don't cook it

 

That's a pretty nice 20B!
It's one of the most complete 20B's I've seen in a long time.
The 20B I got had the rear turbo inlet broken/missing and that throttle body inlet missing also.



-Ted

 

God damnit i need a fsking job...

im feeling left out without a 20b...

 

Hehehe, OK, I guess they are like metallic tempa-labels. Mine doesn't have those.

Yes, my rotor housings have the same finish as yours. It looks kinda like a pewter-finish military badge or tie clasp. Actually, your engine looks a lot like mine did, but mine was less complete like Ted's.

Does your alternator belt have some type of size marking on it? I'm going to need one, and it would save me a lot of time and effort if I knew which one to order.