ok how is this idemitsu rotary premix is it good or is there something better?
here is the link to a site that sells it http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/per...g/idemitsu.htm

also (this one has nothing to do with premix....I lied sorry)
my car smokes a little on start up...white smoke and it does it for about 30 seconds then stops is that ok or is it bad?

thanks
marty

 

I currently use the idemitsu premix it is good stuff. I like the fact that you only have to use 1/2 oz. per gallon. You may get some replies about fouled plugs and that may be a result of using too much,( i.e. 100:1 ratio instead of what the manufacturer calls for which is closer to 200:1 ratio). I have been using it for about 3k and i just changed the sparkplugs a few days ago and they had no carbon build up at all.

The question concerning the smoke when u start up is a combination of a few things. First it is a rotary, the only ones I have not seen do this are either brand new, or a rebuild with a price tag of $3500. However that does not mean that you engine is going bad. This is quite normal. But If you really want to know what is going on I think I can help. It's the oil control rings, seals and springs. The oil control rings wear a small ridge on the side housing. At the same time the oil control seals are loosing surface area because of age and wear, the rings are also pushed out by a spring that also gets weaker with age, and cannot push as hard as a new one. This results in oil seeping into the combustion chamber when the engine is turned off. The oil comes from the inside of the rotors and as the oil is draining back to the oil pan via the middle housing some leaks past the oil control ring.

I just rebuilt my engine 3000miles ago and i did not lap any of the side housings. I just replaced the oil control ring seals and springs not the rings themselvs. I have an open exhaust and I notice when I start my car it smokes a little bit for about 5sec and then its gone.

 

Honestly, I would just us generic 2-cyl oil. You can get "high dollar" synthetic marine outboard 2-stroke oil for at most 10 bucks a gallon and it works great. You can actually use the cheapest possible 2-stroke oil as long as it has the TC-W3 rating on it. Many people have had great success with wal-mart 2-stroke oil. I personally think that the idemetsu premix is greatly overpriced, and have actually heard of some people that don't like it, though I can't recall the reasons.

As for the white smoke, it could either be coolant or oil, but my bet is on coolant. Is the smoke sweet smelling? Do you have to add coolant but don't see a leak anywhere? Either of those could be a sign that the internal coolant seals are getting bad. If thats the case the only way to fix it is to rebuild, but it can last a while like that if you be sure to always keep it full of coolant and never overheat it.

 

my motor has 13k on factory remaned, loses no oil other than 1 qt every 2500 miles and loses no coolant at all. it just smokes for like 5 seconds and dies out. and it smells like raw HC, also I have gutted my cats and have a cat back exhuast. think that might have something to do with it?

thanks
marty

 

I thought the white smoke was normal on startup during cool weather. I thought it was 'cause the engine runs extra rich for a few seconds. *shrug*. Gutting your cat could make your exhaust smell bad.

If you have an N/A, do a search on 5th and 6th ports. If you have a turbo, you don't have 5th and 6th ports so there's no worries. You need to make sure they're still opening now that your exhaust is so unrestrictive. They probably aren't opening, which would mean you're losing quite a lot of power (25HP? I forget). A search will tell you how to open them without exhaust backpressure. Solutions range from a few bucks to tee off your air pump through a valve to ~$100 for a snazzy rpm sensing self-contained actuator.

Idemitsu is premo stuff. Like Sideways7 says, anything TC-W3 rated will still work great. I use Idemitsu 'cause I think it's still plenty cheap. Hasn't given me any problems. For all I know they could be cheating me with colored gasoline. Royal Purple and AMS are also on the premo end. RP gives more horsepower and gas mileage, AMS cleans better.

 

That's from a bottle selling for $5.00. It's not worth the price. It's probably the same thing you can buy at Wal-Mart.

 

this is the 2 cycle oil I use.
I run this at 200:1.

 

To add to the discussion.

If you just premix, and dont have your OMP / MOP on the engine anymore.
Isn't there no lubrication on deceleration?

 

I'm running the Microtech and it still injects fuel on deceleration....unless you turn that off.

 

In the rear rotor, yes and no. The rear rotor is no longer being injected with fuel, but at the same time, the premix that was still on there is not being burned off anymore.

It probably does some damage... but nothing I would worry about.

 

It wont do any damage on decel, nothing to worry about there since there is still 2 stroke moving around in there.

Why just the rear rotor? On decel doesn't both rotors see no fuel?