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Just finished an ohm test on the AFM. All readings seemed to be within spec, however, when slowly pushing the mechanism back, there were a few dead spots throughout the range that showed up sometimes. What do you think?
it happened to me to but its hard to hold a volt meter on pins and push the afm, i used 3 afm and one was bad. It would throw a code for a bad afm. Check to see if you have any engine codes
it happened to me to but its hard to hold a volt meter on pins and push the afm, i used 3 afm and one was bad. It would throw a code for a bad afm. Check to see if you have any engine codes
I don’t have access to anything to read engine codes. I definitely held a solid connection to the AFM, and there were consistently dead spots. Would this cause my car to die? Also toying with the idea of the alternator or injectors being the problem.
Last edited by FcGoesBrap; Jan 15, 2018 at 04:59 PM.
its not running on one rotor, its doing the S5 idle dance, by retarding and cutting fuel in an attempt to get the idle to settle down at 1100 and below, usually unsuccessfully. this is caused by an idle thats set too high or a thermowax that isn't opening as it should.
My 89 vert does this .... i gave up on trying to fix this issue.
I just let it warm for a minute then drive and it goes away once warm
Put some stuff back together and tried to check for codes, but no check engine light came on. I did everything correctly, which makes me think either my idiot cluster isn’t connected properly, or I just don’t have any codes.
My digital multimeter likes to blink off quickly when updating the resistance value which lead me to think my AFM had dead spots but when I would get shiny remanufactured AFMs the car would run worse(tried 2 reman'd ones). Don't make my mistake and think you have dead spots if your multimeter is doing the same thing.
My digital multimeter likes to blink off quickly when updating the resistance value which lead me to think my AFM had dead spots but when I would get shiny remanufactured AFMs the car would run worse(tried 2 reman'd ones). Don't make my mistake and think you have dead spots if your multimeter is doing the same thing.
yeah, i had the same issue with the reman S4 airflow meters, they seem to be setting them to resistance values for some other vehicle.
yeah, i had the same issue with the reman S4 airflow meters, they seem to be setting them to resistance values for some other vehicle.
Yeah that's what mine were. s4 TII Both from A1 cardone that I purchased from Summit. Had to ask for my friend for the 30 year old one back.
Originally Posted by FcGoesBrap
Mine doesn’t even flash when I turn the key, must be disconnected. I’ll look into it when I get the chance.
The connections in the idiot light/warning light unit itself can fail over time and it's actually pretty common for them to. Mine went out and would come back on and flicker if you give the dash a good bonk on top of it.
The plastic garnish that surrounds it is going to be VERY fragile after such a long time so be careful when you remove it. https://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/clocktrim.htm
Here's a picture of the clips that hold it in to get a better idea what you're working with so you don't shatter it.
Yeah that's what mine were. s4 TII Both from A1 cardone that I purchased from Summit. Had to ask for my friend for the 30 year old one back.
The connections in the idiot light/warning light unit itself can fail over time and it's actually pretty common for them to. Mine went out and would come back on and flicker if you give the dash a good bonk on top of it.
The plastic garnish that surrounds it is going to be VERY fragile after such a long time so be careful when you remove it. https://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/clocktrim.htm
Here's a picture of the clips that hold it in to get a better idea what you're working with so you don't shatter it.
Thanks for the info, I didn’t realize they were prone to going bad. Don’t worry about the plastic cover, mine already shattered, lol.
Alright, it’s been a while but it’s time for another update. Long story short, the car sat for a couple months, but it’s being worked on again. Injectors are ordered and will come in a few days. My check engine light wasn’t working, so we couldn’t get codes from the car. Now, however, we have access to a check engine light that can be hooked up in the engine bay to give codes. After using this, we found that codes 40 and 41 were thrown, 40 being the Auxiliary Port Valve, and 41 being the Variable Dynamic Effect Intake. I’ve figured out the positioning of the APV, but can’t seem to figure out the position/use of the VDEV. Can any of you guys help with that? I searched a bit but didn’t find much. Anyways, any feedback is appreciated. The injectors will be changed and both codes will be investigated in about 3 weeks, so I’m trying to gather whatever information I can before that. Thanks for reading
Installed the new injectors last week. After full installation, the car wouldn’t start. Because of this, we decided to check the spark plugs, only to find two of them wet with fuel. We decided to replace the trailing igniter and all of the leads. After doing this, the car starts very easily, however it dies right after. I’ll link a video of this happening. Any thoughts? It seems like a fuel system problem, but I already have new injectors, and new fuel filter, and a new fuel pump. However, I’m willing to look into these again if they seem to be the issue. Video —>
disconnect your battery to clear code first. then fire up to see if code comes back. check your vacuum and routing. bac
Will do, thanks. I believe a vacuum leak is causing the problem, going to disconnect the AFM and run the car to see if it’ll stay alive. I also plan to replace all of the old vacuum lines with fresh ones. I’ll keep the page updated.
