Stalling and Stalling and Stalling... Help!
05-12-03, 05:22 AM
#1
Stalling and Stalling and Stalling... Help!
Well it seems like this 10 AE will just not stop giving me trouble.
The latest problem is that it won't idle right.
When I start it when it's cold, it idles high like it's supposed to with the cold start system and whatnot, but if it is even CLOSE to being warm, or is warm, it will idle up and if I don't keep giving it gas it will die. It seems like I can ease it down to idle, like if I give it small amounts of gas and "set the needle" on the 800 RPM mark then it's alright. If I let it drop from like 2500 RPMs it will fall down and go straight to 500 RPM, chug violently, then die. If I give it gas a lot, rev it high, and then drive it around for a while it's fine, it eventually idles how it's supposed to.
It also has trouble with a bouncy decelleration. If I drop it from 3000 RPMs when it's having the stall problem, and even sometimes when it isn't, then it will drop and right about when it hits 1000 RPM it will bounce up to 1500 then fall to 750, then bounce to 1000, then fall to 500, then back up, or down, who knows. It always varies.
Any ideas? You're the experts here, I'm just tryin to learn what I can.
- Ryan
The latest problem is that it won't idle right.
When I start it when it's cold, it idles high like it's supposed to with the cold start system and whatnot, but if it is even CLOSE to being warm, or is warm, it will idle up and if I don't keep giving it gas it will die. It seems like I can ease it down to idle, like if I give it small amounts of gas and "set the needle" on the 800 RPM mark then it's alright. If I let it drop from like 2500 RPMs it will fall down and go straight to 500 RPM, chug violently, then die. If I give it gas a lot, rev it high, and then drive it around for a while it's fine, it eventually idles how it's supposed to.
It also has trouble with a bouncy decelleration. If I drop it from 3000 RPMs when it's having the stall problem, and even sometimes when it isn't, then it will drop and right about when it hits 1000 RPM it will bounce up to 1500 then fall to 750, then bounce to 1000, then fall to 500, then back up, or down, who knows. It always varies.
Any ideas? You're the experts here, I'm just tryin to learn what I can.
- Ryan
05-12-03, 06:38 AM
#2
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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a good place to start would be adjusting the TPS, and making sure there are no intake air leaks
start car w/ clutch in and tranny in gear, that will stop it from doing the 3000 rpm cold start thing
search past threads and you can find plenty of info on adjusting tps and finding air leaks
report back after you have done this
start car w/ clutch in and tranny in gear, that will stop it from doing the 3000 rpm cold start thing
search past threads and you can find plenty of info on adjusting tps and finding air leaks
report back after you have done this
05-12-03, 08:23 AM
#4
Seduced by the DARK SIDE
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This happened to me. It would sometimes idle, sometimes stall, gradually getting worse.
The basics: The ECU uses low voltage signals from sensors (like the TPS) to controls (like the BAC).
Most of these sensors have their own ground wires, but if the primary grounds are the least bit weak, the sensor grounds try to carry the noisy spark and alternator loads also.
I replaced the firewall to bell housing ground, and added an alternator to body ground.
Then I could get an accurate, repeatable TPS setting.
That fixed the idle problems completely.
On your TII, TID air leaks can sneak up on you also.
The basics: The ECU uses low voltage signals from sensors (like the TPS) to controls (like the BAC).
Most of these sensors have their own ground wires, but if the primary grounds are the least bit weak, the sensor grounds try to carry the noisy spark and alternator loads also.
I replaced the firewall to bell housing ground, and added an alternator to body ground.
Then I could get an accurate, repeatable TPS setting.
That fixed the idle problems completely.
On your TII, TID air leaks can sneak up on you also.
Last edited by SureShot; 05-12-03 at 08:30 AM.
05-12-03, 09:33 AM
#6
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The ECU uses low voltage signals from sensors (like the TPS) to controls (like the BAC).
Most of these sensors have their own ground wires, but if the primary grounds are the least bit weak, the sensor grounds try to carry the noisy spark and alternator loads also.
I replaced the firewall to bell housing ground, and added an alternator to body ground.
Then I could get an accurate, repeatable TPS setting.
That fixed the idle problems completely.
Most of these sensors have their own ground wires, but if the primary grounds are the least bit weak, the sensor grounds try to carry the noisy spark and alternator loads also.
I replaced the firewall to bell housing ground, and added an alternator to body ground.
Then I could get an accurate, repeatable TPS setting.
That fixed the idle problems completely.
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