slip15

just figured out whats wrong the apex seals are shot... poured oil in through the injectors and it started for a few seconds lost power and died... does anybody have any apex seals they want to sell used? cant afford new ones

ifryrice

That's not a really good way to diagnose apex seals. With all the removing/reinstalling injectors/etc it'd be almost as likely that it keeps stalling due to a massive vacuum leak.

slip15

so how do i diagnose if the apex seals are shot? and i do have an exhaust leak.. where it connects to the engine it leaks...

ifryrice

You can do the poor mans compression test, or rent a compression tester. For a poor mans, you remove both of the leading (bottom) plugs from each rotor, and you turn the engine over by hand using a 19mm socket on the crank pulley. For every half rotation, you should hear a loud compression out of the spark plug hole, and it should alternate between the holes. You need to rotate the crank 3 complete times to test them all. If there are any 'dead' spots where it skips and does one rotor twice in a row, it'll indicate a bad apex/side seal.

slip15

well i got it running now... it starts runs etc.. when you let off the gas it dies cause the o2 sensor is not hooked up.. also the radiator hoses and coolant is not hooked up either so now i have alot of work ahead of me.. my clutch pedal has no pressure either it is either up or down

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Are you F-in serious? Why are you trying to run a motor without the radiator hoses and NO COOLANT. Once that thermostat opens with no coolant it will get hot quick then BOOM. Hook up all your hoses and full her up with coolant. There's certain ways to do it so that there almost no air bubbles in the system.

As for it dying when you let off the gas, doesnt exactly mean its because of the o2 sensor. It could be many different things. Wait screw this. Before you do anything do a real compression test with a comp gauge. It thats good then proceed to do as said before.

For your clutch sticking, is there fluid in the clutch master cylinder? We need more info here. With you leaving out details in the beginning like no coolant and ect then its hard for us to help you without making more problems.

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Holy mother of 7's. How did you even pour oil through the injectors? Nevermind i dont want to know. Well say if your apex seals were bad. You say you cant even afford that. Do you understand how these motors work and what is required to rebuild a motor? Tearing apart a motor requires a soft seal kit(est $300) alone. And if your apex seals were bad then more than likely are major parts need replacing. You have a lot of searching to do buddy. And sorry for me being so damn mean.....im just not noob friendly.

slip15

i didnt let it run i wanted to make sure it woud start up before i proceeded with buying parts for it. i will be going to hook everything up tommorow.. i for sure need an o2 sensor cause it is cut.. and i also need to fix my exhaust.. i have a leak by the engine so it probally has no backpressure or anything and as for putting oil in i worded that wrong i had the cold air intake off and i held the throtle open and put oil straight in through that. as for the clutch.. there was almost no fluid in it and the car has been sitting for a long time.. i put fluid in but i have to bleed the lines right?

slip15

well i compression tested it.... perfect compression in first rotor and completely nothing in the back rotor doesnt even read... more than apex seals right?

ifryrice

You'd likely have to replace more than just the apex's in that event. There's no compression strokes at all coming out of the rear? What did you use to test it?

slip15

i used a regular compression tester i got 120 psi on the front but the rear didnt read anything has no compression at all

ifryrice

I hope you didn't pay much for the car if you bought it like that. Makes me wonder the source of that exhaust leak.

slip15

i traded my custom fender guitar for it... got it like it was... so what could it be in the rear? cracked or shattered rotor or something? i do know the guy has nitrous oxide in it the mount is still there

ifryrice

More than likely two broken apex seals/damaged rotor housing/possibly iron. At the very least it'll need a rebuild. Depending upon the condition, I might've opted for keeping the guitar. But then again, I'm a gibson fan so maybe not. At this point, it'll probably only cause more damage the more you try to get it running. The motor will need to come out and a rebuild done to it. It's going to require a bit of money and time. Have you ever rebuilt any engine of any kind before? The rotary isn't all so bad but if you don't have the skillset/experience it can be quite a pain. It wouldn't surprise me if the rear iron was cracked, I've seen that happen before with faulty NOS setups.

slip15

i have torn regular engines down.. but i have friends that build engines and some actually work on rotarys... would it be better to buy a new or used engine? and yea he had at least a 40lb bottle of NOS according to how big the mount is...

ifryrice

I don't know if you can even get reman blocks anymore, so you'll just rebuild with what you have.

slip15

would a bad crank angle sensor cause loss of compression off timing etc? i think mine is most likely bad still yet to do a test.. but i know when first got the car the wire coming off it that goes in the side of the alternator was off and it was touching metal and got a huge spark shock etc and it happened again today so it could be fried couldnt it?